Stupid question, but can a range sensor still be defective even if it's clean and has continuity between the correct pins in the correct gear positions?

 

Bump. So no codes thrown as of yet, but it looks like the cold bouncing is still there. Car shifts smooth, but the TCC takes a few minutes of driving when cold to engage. I tested the TCC solenoid and it checked out good. Any thoughts?

 

It's possible there is no issue. When the engine is cold the car is going to idle higher than when the car is completely warmed up. This is normal. If the car isn't shifting bad and the car idles fine and runs fine I would say it's probably normal behavior.

 

Yes, I know that a higher idle when cold is normal. What I'm referring to is the RPM bounce while coasting in third gear a minute or so after startup. When I put the selector in neutral, it stops.

 

Since you have the same shop manual I have, go to page 4-57 and go through the troubleshooting of the motor mount system. A bad vacuum line or cracked mount is allowing a vacuum leak that only gets vacuum when the car is in gear?

 

I'll go through the procedure and let you know what the results are.

 

Update: went through the testing procedure for the engine mount control system, and my diagnosis ruled the engine mount bad. What work is required to remove it; i.e., how hard is it to replace?

 

Remind me, is the front or rear mount the vacuum controlled motor mount?

 

Rear.

 

What did you find wrong with the motor mount?

I replaced the rear motor mount on my 95 manual transmission accord. The mount is different than the automatic. It wasn't too bad of a job. I remember TexasHonda having the opposite experience with a rear motor mount (maybe an automatic?). Maybe he will share his experience.