Here's the chain of events:

- I changed the front pads and rotors nearly two weeks ago.
- Today, my wife tells me that the brakes are very squishy and the BRAKE light is on. Also, she mentions that the brakes smell.
- I suspect that it is because i didn't remove enough brake fluid from the reservoir, which is causing the brakes to drag. I remove some fluid and take it for a test drive.
- After about 10 minutes, the BRAKE light comes on again. The pedal doesn't seem squishy, so I drive home.
- When I get home, the front brakes smell hot.

They front calipers may be dragging somewhat, but I can still spin the wheel without too much difficulty.

Could my master cylinder be going bad, causing the brakes to drag?

 

Too much fluid in the reservoir shouldn't cause the brakes to drag. It would simply cause the fluid to overflow when you push in the pistons (to make room for new pads).

Check whether the front pads are too tight in the caliper, causing them to not release properly.

Did you bleed fresh fluid through the brakes? If the brakes get hot enough to boil some fluid, that would explain the squishy pedal that gets better when it cools off. Old fluid has a lower boiling point as well as being more corrosive.

It's the "BRAKE" warning lamp? Not the "Brake Light" warning lamp? The same warning for leaving your handbrake set?
There's a fluid level sensor on the brake fluid reservoir. Check the wires. That will set off the same warning lamp as if you leave your handbrake set. For 2003 I don't remember if that's the same kind of float-switch that has problems in older Accords.

 

Since the described issue (e.g., very squishy pedal, smell) doesn't sound like low brake fluid or the parking brake, then the BRAKE system indicator is probably not due to the brake fluid level float switch. Check the front calipers since that was recently worked on.

"Because of the brake system’s dual-circuit design, a problem in one part of the system will still give you braking at two wheels. You will feel the brake pedal go down much farther before the car begins to slow down, and you will have to press harder on the pedal. The distance needed to stop will be much longer." (See the attached image from the owner's manual.)

 

What would cause the brakes to drag? A poorly adjusted brake pedal? I lubed everything that was supposed to be lubed and there were no issues prior to pad/rotor replacement. I don't believe that the caliper is hanging up or stuck.

 

When the exposed part of the caliper piston gets rusty, it will work fine until you push the rusty portion back in, to make room for the new pads. Then the hydraulic brakes will push the piston out when you push the brake pedal, but the rust will not let it retract like it should when released.

 

I have 2002 Accord EX, I4 with 144K Miles. I feel a slight jerk when it comes to a complete stop. Not sure if this issue is related to brakes grabbing or calipers?

Pls suggest

 

Are you getting any codes from the PCM - engine or trans related? Some of the 6th gen auto trans cars have an issue with the converter sticking. The "jerk" you are feeling could be the converter unlocking.

 

No. There is no check engine light whatsoever.....touch wood!

But i don't think it is a trans issue but related to wrapped rotors and brake pads. This is what my mechanic said after diagnosis.

But my question is to replace the rotors new or get it turned or resurfaced as it is only 5% life left for the rear. Don't know what to do.

 

Your call on the rotors, with only a small amount left, turning them will have you down to almost the limit which could lead to overheating of the rotor(s).