Hello, my first post, and I already need help.

I'll give you a little back ground, I've been building race engines for over 30 years now, and have done just about everything to a car/truck from carbs to trannys, rear ends, body work, and even custom parts. So, I do know a little about cars.

So I'm trying to save my son some money as he needed a rear main seal replaced on his 2000 Accord SE.

I pulled the tranny, and replaced the bad rear seal on the engine as well as the front pump seal on the automatic transmission.

To do all of this I had to pull both CV joints, and the passenger side brakes.

After getting everything back together, and hooking up all of the wiring, etc.

I started the car, and checked for leaks..............everything good.

So I start to take it for a test drive. My driveway is fairly long so the tranny was able to change gears once before getting to the end.

After it changed gears the ABS locked both front brakes, HARD, then let off. I pulled the battery cable again to let any codes clear [battery cable was off the whole time I was working on the car].

I tried it again, same thing both brakes lock HARD. I put the tranny into 1st gear, and gave it a try . No locking of the brakes.

The tranny does need just a bit more fluid, but I wouldn't think that would be an issue. Also, there are no lights comming on the dash except for the check engine light, but it was like that before I worked on it.

Oh, and it wasn't doing this before I did the work, so it pretty much has to be related to something I done.

Thanks, and sorry for the long first post.......Any help would be great as my son works for the humane society so he has to be at work to attend to all of the animals.

 

I would start by pulling the ABS fuses. From the wiring diagram, there is a 20 and 30 amp fuse that you need to remove in the fuse box under the hood. Then test drive the car and see if the problem goes away.

Then you can narrow down that the ABS system is causing the problem.

 

Ok, I just tried that, and the problem still persists. {thanks for the tip though]

Its funny that it does this AFTER the gear change. Maybe it might be something related to low transmission fluid, OR maybe I missed re-connecting a sensor.

Its NOT down shifting though as the rpms go down when the hard deceleration happens.

 

If you damaged the tone ring on one of the CV axles, it might cause problems. Did you pull the wheel speed sensors when axles were pulled?

good luck

 

That might be a possibility as you all know CV joints can be a pain. I didn't pull the speed sensors, but I will give them a look as I had to wrestle the CV joints in.

Is there a fix for a damaged tone ring?

 

Question, shouldn't the ABS light on the dash be ON if the abs is disabled?

I'm thinking there might be some more fuses that I have overlooked, thanks.

 

Yes, a damaged sensor should set ABS code, but damaged tone ring (missing lug?) might generate a spurious signal that would cause ABS to actuate. Strictly speculation on my part.

good luck

 

First let me say that it really irks me to see posts like this where the OP never replies if the problem was fixed, if it was fixed then how he fixed the problem so............

FIXED!!!

I tried the car again this morning with the shifter in the 1st gear position, and the car drove fine.

I tried again in the 2nd gear position, and wham........it felt like the brakes were on.

I did a little reading on the shift solenoids, and how to test them.

So I go out to the car to look at the solenoids. I notice that the wires for two of the solenoids is stretched to the limit to fit the connections.

I take these two connector off the solenoids, and swap them with the other two solenoids, and guess what the connectors are the SAME!!!

Of ALL of the vehicles in my life that I have worked on, the factory connectors are made to ONLY fit one switch, solenoid, etc.

So, when I was re-attaching the connectors, and they went into the solenoids I didn't think much of it as, like I said, MOST connectors are made to fit one component.

If anyone does drop their tranny make sure you take a picture of the connectors on the tranny, or any other part of the engine as there might be other connectors that fit different electrical components.

Also, the issue of the internal tranny filter is enough to make me never want to buy a Honda as that was just a bad engineering design from the start.

I'm going to advise Jr. to take the car to a reputable trans shop, and have the tranny flushed, then I'm going to add an inline trans filter.

For more reading on the transmission problems.............

http://repairpal.com/transmission-fa...y-extended-101

Thanks again for all of the advice.

 

Last question. Since these auto trannys have so many problems, what kind of trans fluid do I need?

Will just regular Dextron 3 work?

 

Thanks for posting the solution and I'm glad it was a relatively simple fix.

Honda transmissions don't do well with flushes. Just do a drain/refill using Honda ATF. There is an ericthecarguy video on youtube on how to do this. You'll need three quarts.

The 98-02 transmissions are delicate and known to have premature failures.