Crack the nut with a cold chisel and hammer first; it doesn't have to open up, it just needs a shock.

 

I suspect he means 3/4" drive. Socket is 36mm which would be about 1-3/8".

A good impact socket may help. You can sometimes rent them at auto parts. You will use enough to justify purchasing this socket. I bought mine from a local version of Harbor Freight and it's worked well for several years.

good luck

 

Yes, I mean 3/4" drive. And it's actually a 1-7/16" for 36mm. Fit nearly perfect. I heated it up with the torch and with a good hard push with a cheater bar they both slowly loosened. Pushed the axles back out as far as I could, removed the 4 bolts with a 12mm wobbly. Wacked one side real good with a dead blow a few times and the hub came out. The other side was not so cooperate. I ended up putting the wheel back on and wiggling that real hard and it finally broke loose and came out. The wheel gives you a good leveraged handhold. Rotors are out and ready for either new or turn them, haven't decided. I can get them turned for $25.

 

You can buy new rotors for a little more. I got mine in 2 days from Rockauto. Great online provider.

good luck

 

I used them recently for a radiator and condensor. Came quickly. The radiator was great, the condensor not so great. Cheap and damaged so I returned for a refund. I would use them again.

 

I replaced the axles on my 97 Accord a few years ago. Got one to break loose, could not get the other one off. Took a metabo with a cutting wheel and cut it off in less than 5 minutes. The new axles had nuts with them, so it was not an issue. Good luck!

 

I have used pb blaster, heat, air impact, breaker bar and cheater and I still cant get any where on mine is there anything else you guys got up your sleeve?

 

Do you have a Dremel tool or a friend who will loan you one? Use a metal cut off wheel on the Dremel tool and cut a groove parallel to the shaft. Do not cut all the way through the nut as you do not want to damage the outer shaft on the outer CV joint. You have a core to return if this is a rebuilt drive shaft. Use a good cold chisel, with a chisel holding tool (this saves your knuckles, fingers and thumbs from a misaligned blow of the sledge), and a small sledge hammer to crack the nut along the freshly cut groove. A few brisk hits should pop the nut and it should crack all the way through for the length of the nut. The nut should be easily removed. If it still will not come, then cut one or two move grooves in the nut spaced 120º to 180º from the first cut (depending on the total number of cuts). Place a pry bar between one of the breaks and attempt to force a section of the nut away from the remaining part(s) of the nut. This is very similar to the suggestion outlined by another forum member in an earlier post. This should work 100% of the time. You need to be patient and be careful not to hurt yourself.

Best of luck and please update the list as to your progress.

Sincerely,

Brían S. Du Bois
Evansville, IN

 

Bring it to a truck shop that has a 3/4 impact....

 

When I was rebuilding the suspension on my Corvair, almost nothing came off easy. I used a nut splitter on some of them. It worked ok. That's the only new thing to add to the list. Did not reuse any old ones. The worst was pressing out the universal joints. Using a bench vise with everything the vise had, still no movement, tapped it with a hammer, there was a loud pop, it was out.