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Bucking at 2-3k rpm then Boggs

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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 04:06 PM
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Default Bucking at 2-3k rpm then Boggs

I have an 87 accord dx 5 speed. When I get off the highway and start to cruse around town on these hot days the car starts to buck and when I hold it wide open it bogs right down. I tried to correct this by changing the fuel filters and it didn't help. This is the second time it happened I'm thinking vacuum line or carb but I don't know where to look. It has also had small bucks during acceleration
 
Old Jul 16, 2012 | 04:13 PM
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It dies on me and the batter and oil light come on. It's a new battery and the oil is full
 
Old Jul 16, 2012 | 04:13 PM
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could be ignition, could be carb. when were the plugs/cap/rotor/wires last changed.
 
Old Jul 16, 2012 | 04:16 PM
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I can't answer when they were last changed. However when I checked the plugs they looked clean. Wires look new but that doesn't mean much.
 
Old Jul 16, 2012 | 04:18 PM
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I'm sittin on the side of the road so what better to do that to go on the forum. Both times this happened I was going a little faster than usual. About 5 months ago I did pour some carb straight into the carb thinking it would help.
 
Old Jul 16, 2012 | 04:21 PM
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It also rolls dead. I figured since it was a manual that it would try and turn over with the key on rolling but it just slowly creeps to a halt
 
Old Jul 16, 2012 | 04:25 PM
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so you're dead on the road now? that can be good, my best guess would be the igniter in the distributor has gone south on you, based on your other above symptoms. if the carb were bad, it would at least still try and run somewhat. the hot weather also tells me you may have a bad igniter. i'm sure somebody else will chime in.
 
Old Jul 16, 2012 | 04:40 PM
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Yep I'm dead. Tried the tap the distributer with a hammer and jiggle wires to no avail
 
Old Jul 16, 2012 | 07:44 PM
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Really need to know if this a lack of spark (my guess) or a lack of fuel. On these there is a fuel bowl sight glass to view the fuel level in the carb bowl - view from the drivers side fender.

Do you have a timing light or volt meter.

One last question - is the ICM/Igniter internal or external on yours - in this gen they came with either/both.
 
Old Aug 16, 2012 | 11:13 AM
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I'm not sure if it is internal or not. I believe it is a faulty igniter because it runs great until it gets hot or worked. If igniter was external cold I just replace that or whole distributer? Or am I better off doing both. My mechanic could find nothing wrong with it everything worked just fine for him

Fuses are not bad.
 



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