Hi guys, been awhile since I've been on here, very busy around my place. Well, its HOT here in Texas, so I finally decided to get the ol' a/c working in the accord. Pumped the system out, it didn't hold a vacuum. Inserted some dye and saw that a bolt on the back of the compressor was leaking and the low intake was leaking. Fixed both of those. Pumped system, injected freon/dye and saw no leaks anywhere. Continued to fill with freon and as the car was being filled, it was some cold a/c. After filling, its just now slightly cold. Very very slightly cold. I can turn the temp **** to hot and back over to cold and a burst of really cold air comes out, but then warms back up..

Any ideas to this problem?


PS. Heat works great by the way. In the winter, start the car, in less than 2 minutes, its really toasty in there.

 

I've read that overfilling a system could cause the A/C to not blow as cold. I just did some A/C work myself this weekend, and what I found was that when I filled the system with freon to weight spec (600 - 650g in my car, a 2000 Civic Si), the pressure readings for both High and Low pressure were below the lower bound of the recommended range given ambient temperature. You mentioned that the A/C was cold as you were filling the system, but not after the job was completed, which (in my mind) could be indicative of an overfilled system.

 

I didn't think about overfilling.. What should the pressures be at 95 degrees outside?

 

I also started a related thread where TexasHonda recommends following weight spec, so I'll advise the same.

 

Thanks for that. Some guy was telling me that all of his cars he works on and checks, their readings for low is in the 30s on every car he does when his shop temp is around 90-100 degrees.. Does that chart work for all makes and models?

 

Also be sure to check that the heater control valve is closing all the way and that the blend door is fully "closed to the evap".

 

How do I check that? When I first put air in it, it was freezing cold while filling.. The temp ****, when I turn it to heat, you can hear it "thump" and then it gets extremely hot. I would like to check it though to make sure it is fully closing.

 

I don't know the answer to that, but I can say from (limited) experience that you're probably better off going by the weight spec rather than High/Low pressure reading. The thread I linked in my last post is a complete account of why I'm now doubtful of using only pressure readings.

 

Here are some basics to check. When you turn on the a/c, do both radiator fans turn on?

When car is blowing warm air with the a/c turned on, is the compressor clutch still engaged and spinning with the pulley? Are both radiator fans turned on?

I am attaching a bulletin that will give you an idea of the proper pressures. The 94 shop manual that you can download from a link in the common diy thread in the general tech forum has a chart you can use as well.

 

So I pulled the glove box opened, check all the levers and doors, all seem to be working.. Then that little temp control cable, well I followed the cable to the actual door, which is near the floor, above the hump. I worked the lever.. The door moved, but I saw which way was COLD.. And I pushed that sucker with my fingers ALL the way closed.. Turned on the air.. BAM, cold a/c