I am officially tired of my car right now. Last Tuesday I had some pressure problems somewhere and decided to replace the master cylinder after bleeding it didnt work. So now with the new master cylinder and new slave cylinder, this thing wont bleed to slave my life. The only thing I can get out of it is a little trickle of fluid out of the bleeder and I can only get a stream when I push in the slave cylinder. I have literally been trying to bleed the bastard for nearly 6 hours and it wont get a lick of pressure. I have no leaks, clogs, or known defective parts at this point. When the bleeder is closed, I can mash on the slave cylinder and it will blow fluid out of the reservoir so I know I have good flow. I attempted to get most of the bubbles out by doing that method and now I am getting straight fluid. But yet I still for the life of me can NOT get the tiniest bit of pressure. I think the old master cylinder got better pressure than this thing. And before I started replacing stuff, I was not getting enough pressure. NOW I CANT GET ANY!!!

 

You can reverse-bleed the system by sucking fluid out of the reservoir & pumping fresh fluid into the bleed valve on the slave.

Sometimes you have to pump the pedal LOTS of times before it begins working. When you do, the pedal probably stays on the floor & you have to pull it up, right? Tie a string around the pedal to pull it up while you control it with your foot. Don't let it SNAP quickly upwards, it seems to work better when it comes up more smoothly.

 

I have read your non-snap method a few times on here and I cannot get that to work for sure. I bench bled the master before I installed it and the slave is full of fluid. Its weird because I did a 5 speed swap on this car and the lines and everything were bone dry and I had it bled in about an hour. Now its not getting pressure to save my life and everything is brand spankin new.

 

Maybe check that the push rod is connected to the clutch pedal under the dash?

 

It is secure and adjusted to its outer most point to help aid the bleeding a little bit. If I do the turkey baster method tomorrow and it doesnt work, then what?

 

I would take the master and slave cylinder back to the place where you bought them and exchange them.

One of the parts has to be bad out of the box.

 

Oh and just an FYI, I have been through 3 BIG BOTTLES of brake fluid today. Im PISSED!

 

What's that mean? Longest push-rod or shortest? Either way, doesn't help bleeding - it's gotta be correct. Got a shop manual? Look at the part about adjusting the height of the clutch pedal above the floor.

There's a vent inside the MC that opens at a certain point. The MC doesn't begin pushing fluid until that vent closes. So you want that vent to just open when the pedal is up. Then the vent closes as you begin pressing down the pedal.

Maybe(?) the rod is adjusted too short, so the vent stays open way too long. Then the MC doesn't begin pushing any fluid until it's too close to the floor.

 

Its adjusted to its outermost point. Meaning there arent many threads on the actual fork that hooks onto the clutch pedal. Im about to run out and get a turkey baster and reverse the flow.

 

So does that mean the pushrod is too long? That vent opens to the reservoir, to allow fluid to fill the MC when the pedal is up. If the vent doesn't open, then fluid from the reservoir can't get into the lines.

To see if that's the case, when the reservoir is full, open the slave bleed screw. The fluid should drain by gravity & the fluid level in the reservoir should drop. (Don't let it go empty).