I could not find my exact issue here so thought I would post it. The prob started about 6 months ago. Had an evap canister code I could not get to go away, gotta admit I didnt try that hard on it though as I heard it should not affect the car performance.
Then it died, no gas so changed the fuel pump, plugs, rotor and wires while I was at it. It was hard to get started after but just figured it was that dry.
Then it started stalling on my wife commute home, bout 40 mi. Only when comming to a stop in traffic, yea she was "that guy". Pop it in N and try the key a few times and back up and running.
I drive it 25 mi commute and nada, (different shifts for work, mine is at night so maybe a over heating issue though the gauge doesnt show it?).
So changed out the main relay, still stalls, clean throttle body, Iacv, change air filter still stalls on the wife, me it treats just fine. Finally get a code, speed sensor.
Change that, code goes away but not the issue (not the evap code either). When it dies it just idles down to off. Lights still active radio still playing.
Help please, gotta admit were frustrated, we were going to sell it (and yes getting another one) but didnt want to give this gremlin to someone else. Thanks.
Thanks Crispin, spaced it out. Hope this helps.

 

I am sorry buddy but I cannot read that large run on paragraph.

Please edit it and use the enter key after every sentence or two.

 

These are fun to chase down....hard to fix a car when it is working.

Cheap try and it is kind of considered a maint item, how old is the fuel filter? For giggles pull the vac line off the fuel pressure regulator, should be dry inside the vac line

Next would be to figure out what "goes missing" or "is too much" when it dies. This is going to be hard to do since it only happens to her (has she tried to talk nice to it ).

How much do you think she is willing to do to help? What I mean by that, is she able to do some testing when this happens?

 

I did replace the fuel filter with the new pump. The wife is awesome with diggin in, she replaced the radiator hose once on the side of the road without even a call.
The problem is more of even getting her to drive it anymore, she recently adopted the mini van as her ride. I talk her into driving it after I change something, but thats getting harder to do.
Vac line is dry. I do know shes not halucinating (It did cross my mind) because it did happen to me once, on a short drive. But it was also when I got the speed sensor code soooo... Still, cant get it to duplicate it.

 

Like I said, these are not fun to figure out.

You say when coming to a stop. So trying to figure out if it is "loading up"..running along at X rpm's but then drop to idle when warm/hot - she drives during the day, is the ac on. Again I'm just trying to give some ideas.

 

The idle seems to drop below 500 when braking and then bounce back up around 750-1000 and idle. Wife also says that it makes a difference on how fast you brake, the harder/faster you come to a stop the higher the likelyhood it will conk out. Also that it she shifts into neutral when stopping it is less likley to stall, though not bullet proof.
Could the temp sensor be faulty, maybe giving the computer the wrong info and not increasing the idle? I'm just throwin darts here. Map sensor?

 

sounds like a vacuum leak to me
when you use the brakes you use vacuum (booster)
Check for cracked / leaking hoses by spraying each hose and connection with WD40
the Idle will change when you spray a hose that is leaking

 

Crispin, I think you just solved his problem!

 

I had an idle air bleed screw problem and caused similiar issues, dont know if applicable to your model but worth checking out. Easy test, I followed below but didnt have a tester to do the idle air counts so I just used a tach. That screw should be somewhere in the middle not all the way seated like mine was, dealership mechanics you just cannot trust them.

The screw is located on the intake manifold about the size of a dime , flat screw driver will do well to adjust. Mine also had a rubber insert covering the screw. Good luck.

INSPECTION PROCEDURE A
1.Access the air bleed screw on the throttle body.
2.Record the current setting of the screw:
^Turn the screw clockwise, and count the number of turns (both full and partial) it takes to fully seat the screw.
^Turn the screw counterclockwise back to its original setting.
^Subtract the number of clockwise turns it took to seat the screw from 3-1/2. Record that number. Example: If it took two full turns to seat the screw, subtracting 3-1/2 from that gives you 1-1/2.
3.Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fan cycles twice).
4.Turn off all electrical items (A/C, audio unit defogger, lights, etc.). Center the steering wheel so there is no power steering load.
5.Connect the PGM Tester or HDS to the 16P data link connector (DLC).
6.Turn on the PGM Tester or HDS. Enter the VIN and odometer reading.
7.Follow the screen prompts on the PGM Tester or HDS to get to DATA LIST. Scroll down the list to IAC.
8.While watching the IAC counts on the PGM Tester or HDS, slowly turn the air bleed screw (either counterclockwise or clockwise) until the IAC count reaches 1 (or 7 for '99-00 Odyssey) or you have turned the screw counterclockwise a total of 3-1/2 turns. (Count the number of counterclockwise turns you have made, and add that number to the screw setting you recorded in step 2.)
^If you see an IAC count of 1 (or 7 for '99-00 Odyssey), turn the screw clockwise 1/2 turn, and then go to step 9.
^If you do not see an IAC count of 1 (or 7 for '99-00 Odyssey), and you have turned the screw counterclockwise a total of 3-1/2 turns, leave the screw set where it is. Go to step 9. You should never set the air bleed screw counterclockwise more than 3-1/2 turns from its seated position. If you set the screw further it could work itself out of the throttle body over time.
9.Let the engine idle for 10 minutes to allow the ECM/PCM to learn the new idle parameters.
10.Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). Turn off and disconnect the PGM Tester or HDS.

 

Thanks all,
I,m always suprised on how much havoc the simple can cause on a car (learned all about bad grounds on my jeep), so I,m hopeing on the vac leak.
Dont have a pgm so thanks for the tach idea will try it out when I can get back in the garage.
Cant work on the car again till Monday or Tues, so I'll repost after that, didnt want anyone think I got my answer and ran. Hate it when I dont see the solution myself.
Till then.