I have a '93 Accord SE and am trying to figure out what rpms should be at 70 mph... I've seen comments anywhere from 2700/rpms to 3100/rpms. It is running very hard at 3100 @ 70 mph...

My '92 ran at 2800, and my son's '95 runs 2700 @ 70... Please help clarify the most accurate mph-rpm ratio! Of course, advise is very much welcomed!
Note: everything is tuned up--engine and transmission-wise.

 

Was your 92 accord an LX, DX, or EX? How about your son's 95?

 

Automatic or manual have different gear ratios. Should we guess which you have?

 

I guess he has a blue car - if that helps any...

 

Thank you for the response. My 92 was an EX & the 95 is an LX. All 3 are automatic.

One more point: the D4 light is out (and I understand it has been for a long time), so I do not know if it is blinking... Thank you again!


Thanks for the color commentary Crispin! No blues brother...

 

It shouldn't be turning 3100 rpm @ 70 mph. From "http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=37839" The second post lists the auto trans ratios & final drives.

USDM F22AX 90-93 ACCORD EX/SE COUPE/SEDAN:

Diff Type & Tranny Codes:
STD Only = ?

2.705 1
1.464 2
1.028 3
0.674 4
4.285 final

4th gear 195/60 R15
70mph = 2806 rpm
80mph = 3207 rpm

Does your '93 have very low profile tires and/or had a lower geared DX/LX coupe trans swapped into it?

 

4th gear 195/60 R15
70mph = 2806 rpm
80mph = 3207 rpm

Does your '93 have very low profile tires and/or had a lower geared DX/LX coupe trans swapped into it?[/quote]



Thank you! I appreciate your feedback. I will check to see if it is a swapped tranny.

Do you know of other possible problems? I was told it is likely the Torque Converter not slipping into highway 'overdrive'.

 

If the torque converter doesn't lock up correctly, that should cause a flashing D4 lamp (which is burned out). Fixing that lamp might help diagnose?

 

Thank you for the advice. I see that getting that getting the D4 light working again is going to be the only way to better diagnose the problem.

To do that, I understand that I probably have to change out the TCU unit... Is this true? If so, is it something that I can do? Are there after-market TCU units that are cheaper than dealer product?

I thank all that have shared insight!

 

I was thinking a burned out bulb in the cluster...

I don't know the pin-outs for the TCU, but pretty sure that bulb is powered all the time and the TCU switches the ground leg of the circuit. So if you find the right wire, you could simply use a test-lamp to get it flashing & read the code. Someone probably has a wiring drawing for 93.

A cheaper TCU would be ebay or salvage yard, or on-line discounted parts place. Never seen an actual different manufacturer.