Hello,

I have had an European spec 2002 Accord coupe 3.0V6 for a few months. Just shy of 100,000mi. The other day while accelerating car cut the power and threw a CEL. Since it has no OBD2 connector I jumped the 2 pin and got a code 22. Oil is new and enough. If I turn the car off and back on there is no CEL on unless I rev the car above ~4k rpm. Oil pressure switch has been ordered already.

Since I’m a scrupulous person I rechecked the CEL by jumping the 2 pin connector before ordering the oil pressure switch and this time I got codes 22 and 70 (transmission issue). D4 light blinks rapidly 8 times. Is anybody able to the tell me what that means?

CEL never came on for the code 70, in fact the only way to have the CEL to appear is to rev the car over 4000rpm. I didn’t notice any change in the way the car shifts gears. Transmission fluid (genuine Honda) is new.

Thanks

 

CEL code 22 is a vtec malfunction and is equivalent to an OBD2 P1259 code. Hopefully the vtec pressure switch solves the issue.
CEL code 70 is for a transmission fault and covers a bunch of transmission codes.
D4 code 8 is for shift solenoid valve B. The obd2 code is P0758. This likely set the cel code 70.

 

Hey PAhonda thanks for helping.

I researched a bit and it seems some people change the whole VTEC solenoid system with the P1259 code. I hope it is not that because the whole solenoid assembly is basically not sold here in Europe, so I decided to go for the easier (and cheaper) parts first. I ordered part number 37240-PT0-014. If that doesn’t solve the issue then I was considering ordering 37250-PR3-003 plus that gasket with the screen.

Regarding the transmission, after reading a bit on the web it seems that people with that issue have transmissions that don’t shift at all? Mine works and CEL never came on for that what do you recommend doing?

Thanks

 

Part 37240-... is the engine-oil-pressure switch, not the VTEC oil-pressure switch. It's for the oil-pressure warning light and not related to the VTEC system. You will need to get the 37250-... part if the issue is the VTEC oil-pressure switch.

I'm not sure about needing the VTEC solenoid, or gaskets for the spool valve. I only have the shop manual for the 4-cylinder, and it uses the same error code for the VTEC solenoid vs the VTEC oil pressure switch. Not sure if the V-6 does the same thing with the error code(s).

 

You have a good point indeed. I’ll try to swap the order.

Can a faulty VTEC oil-pressure switch cause both a rough idle after a cold start and the engine to shake when idling regardless of the car temperature?

Thanks

 

My first thought is NO, it won't cause that (because I'm pretty sure on the 4-cyl it wouldn't). But I really don't know if the V-6 had any aspect of the VTEC system that operates during cold-start and during idling.

 

Thanks again for your help!

I am still waiting for the part, so can’t update you guys on the VTEC oil-pressure switch yet.

Tackling now the transmission issue, how come I have a “shift solenoid valve B” code, but the car never changed the way it shifted the gears? I’ve only had the car for a few months. Any known issue? What do you guys recommend?

 

After changing the VTEC oil pressure switch, I'd clear the codes and see IF any new codes come up. If so, read them and go from there.
Usually trans codes are a screen that's clogged, but with the V6 AT, it's hard to say. I only mention it, as for some reason the V6 AT is a problem filled unit. Some searching on here will bring up multiple posts, and on 6th gen Accords.com (98-02 Accords) it will bring up more, to the point of people discussing how to convert the V6 car to MT. I know 1 guy over that got 200K out of his V6 AT combo, but most don't get that far.

 

It's a little confusing here. In the picture, the "Shift Solenoid" is #8, "Solenoid-B" is #13 so I'm not sure which one is associated with that error. You could check to see if there's anything flaky with the wiring harness & plug for either one??

 

Thanks everybody for participating. ATF is brand new if that helps. Genuine Honda ATF was used. Old ATF wasn’t black and didn’t smell like burnt, however wasn’t even bright red like the new one. I guess it just looked like a n ATF that needed replacement.

I wish I could convert mine into a MT! Not a big fan of this AT. Nevertheless, car has just under 100k miles so I’d like to be able to pull a bit more miles out of this drivetrain. Looking at the diagram in post #9, it seems that items 8 and 10 have screens. Perhaps even 12 and 13. I’d like to clean all of them, will I need to drain the TF?

@JimBlake , post #2 suggests that the code is associated to item #13 of the picture?