Converting a 6th-gen Accord V-6 to manual is a big job since the V-6 was never offered with a manual to begin with. But I understand since I'm a big fan of manual transmissions in general.

The (slightly) confusing thing is that the parts list calls #13 "Solenoid-B", doesn't call it "Shift Solenoid B". I don't know enough about the V-6 automatic to know whether that silly distinction matters at all. The V-6 supplement to the shop manual probably has a detailed troubleshooting procedure for P0758. The 4-cyl automatic is quite different than the V-6 automatic.

 

Yes, I've found Honda's terminology confusing for some things. Even when looking thru the service manual, trying to find what you're looking for can be tough. You might call it one thing, but Honda calls it something else.
Yes, the 4 cylinder version of the AT is different from the V6, mainly due to the direction it spins (opposite of each other). The 4 cylinder engine runs CCW, (from their motorcycle days), while the V6 runs CW (like most normal engines).
The "V6 supplement" is about 1300 pages long, as I had a link posted here for the forums, but it disappeared like most of the others, which is a real shame. The V6 book covered everything about the V6 car like the 4 cylinder version does. Like Jim, I don't have the "V6 supplement", as I don't have a V6 car, but rather two 4 cylinder cars (a 99 and a 2000), so my 4 cylinder book does get a work out (has paid for itself). Yes, I did get it in book form, versus a CD from Helm Inc.

 

Hello guys, a little update.

I changed the VTEC oil pressure switch (plus the gasket) and finally the car revs beyond the 4k rpm mark without going into limp mode.
Now what I found was a bit strange. The switch itself was a bit loose, plus I found there was some liquid (a drop or so) in both the switch and the connecting harness. I cleaned the harness and connected it to the new switch. I then proceeded to dry the old pressure switch and I discovered the liquid was radiator fluid I must admit I was very surprised. There was no moist around and neither was the area wet. Also, there are no leaks.

However, the car still misfires at idle, especially when the engine is cold, it’s quite bad, revolutions drop as low as 250rpm. What do you guys suggest?
If it helps:
-plugs are new
-plugs cables are new
-throttle body is clean and its gasket is also brand new
-iac valve is clean
-EGR valve is clean
-air filter is new

thanks

 

If you have coolant in an area where you should only have oil, then you may have a leaking head gasket or a crack in the cylinder head or engine block. It is possible that the vtec system has a coolant passage that could leak? Was your car overheating recently?

When the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap and make sure the radiator is filled to the top with coolant.

Before tearing into the cylinder head, a quick check is start the engine for a minute, shut off the engine, then pull the oil dipstick. Does the engine oil look like chocolate milk?

 

Hi PAhonda thanks for helping.

My bad I probably didn’t explain well. So the coolant was inside the connector, not the engine side. And it was clean like it just dripped. My personal guess could be that some coolant spilled out of the water pump that was recently replaced together with the timing belt? The part of the pressure switch going into the engine block was indeed “dirty” of oil only.

I’ve only owned the car for a few months and driven it for a bit less than 3,000 miles. I checked the coolant level several times and it never dropped, I also checked the oil many times since I also had the issue with the VTEC oil pressure switch and the color is good, no milkshake. Throughout my ownership the car never overheated and the temperature needle stabilises itself a few lines shy of the mid position in the gauge once I drive the car for a few minutes, to what I believe it is the correct operating temperature? Don’t know if it is of any help but the radiator fan also works.

 

If your code reader can scan some live data, warm up the car to operating temperature and let us know the long and short term fuel trims at idle. Then raise the rpm to 2000 and let us know the short and long term fuel trims. Your V6 will have short and long term trims on each bank (bank 1 and bank 2).

 

Unfortunately I don’t have any code reader, yet. The car also doesn’t have the OBD2 port but only the 3 pin connector plus the 2 pin connector that can be jumped in order to read the codes on the dash.

Any suggestion on what tools I should buy to give you the live data you need? Thanks

 

The short answer is that I don't know how you would get a code reader/scanner to work on your 02 European accord. You may have to search the web to see if your accord is obd2 compliant, then you may need an adapter from your 3-pin connector in your car to the standard 16-pin obd2 adapter. You would only do this if you are 100% sure on how the 3-pin adapter is wired, because you could cause damage to the ECU. Where are you located with the euro-spec accord?

If you can't get a scanner on your car, you may be able to eliminate some issues. Does the car idle better when the car is at operating temperature? Does increasing the rpm when you first start the car help reduce the misfire, or does it get worse?

 

All understood. Thanks again for helping.

So I am based in Spain, the car was manufactured in the US and first registered here in 2002, however I believe it is the equivalent of a 99 model, as for instance the engine doesn’t have the 6 coils layout on top of every cylinder but rather the “high tension cords”.

The car does idle better when it is at operating temperature, you can feel the misfire but it is not as bad as when it is cold. There are no RPM fluctuations on the gauge. Also, when at operating temperature if I am let’s say driving in a highway and then come off and stop at a light, the idle is fine for 3/4 seconds before starting misfiring.

The first minutes when cold though is a complete different animal, jolting pretty bad with huge rpm drops initially (to as low as 200-250rpm) then as the engine warms up it gets progressively better but still car shakes a little bit and a 100-150rpm fluctuation can be seen on the rpm gauge when the normal idle would be around 750rpm.

Increasing the rpm helps reduce the misfire.

Some additional info: with the engine cold, yesterday I opened the radiator cap and the coolant was at the top.

 

Anybody able to shed some lights?