My 95 wagon has a lot of engine movement when going into drive and reverse with the brakes on, and it buzzes/ rumbles at idle. The front mount looks pretty easy. I can't see how to get to the rear mount, let alone change it. Any advice on this? I don't have a lift or an engine hoist.

 

You can put the front of the car up on good solid jack-stands, then put a jack under the oil pan (with a piece of wood or something). You need to support the engine, not lift it out of the car.

The rear mount is vacuum-operated on an automatic-trans car. And it's a pain to get at.

 

yes, I can see that. How is it done? Can it be done from underneath, or is it necessary to remove the intake manifold?

 

I did my 95 from underneath.

 

I replaced my 94 EX rear mount. Two bolts can be accessed from topsides on pax side by removing the air intake. Last bolt is a bitch.

I removed drivers side CV axle, motor mount bracket, and oil filter to provide good access and space for removal of the mount from underneath.

Count on at least 6 hrs for this job. That would be a good time IMO.

good luck

 

Others beat me to it... which is good 'cause I haven't had to actually replace that.

 

I replaced the front mount yesterday. That was a bigger job than I thought it would be. Had to remove pass side radiator fan, which required lowering valance on the car. Very limited space to break loose the bolt holding the old one, due to AC line in the way. Got it done, and there is still some vibration. Not sure how to tell which other mounts are bad. Any idea?

 

With a good spotlight you can observe the rear motor mount from the passenger side of the vehicle. You'll need a trusted operator in the car w/ emergency brake and foot brake firmly held. Apply small brief throttle inputs (1500-2000 rpm) in forward and reverse and observe the rear mount. In my case the inner rubber mount had completely separated from outer material.

End mounts can be visually inspected relatively easily w/ same procedure.

good luck

 

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Also replaced the rear ( hydraulic) mount. It mad a little difference, but it is still kind rough at idle.

While under the car, I found a small hole in the exhaust at a welded joint. That was causing the buzzing.

I'm thinking the idle is a bit too low. It shows about 700 on the tach, and being OBD1 I cannot put the scan guage on it.

I don't have a shop tach anymore.

Where is the idle adjust anyway?