Charging the A/C
#1
Charging the A/C
I installed a new shaft seal in my compressor and replaced the o-rings throughout the system. When I pumped down on the system, it seemed to hold a vacuum. When I went to charge it with R134a, there was oil coming out of the connection from the condenser at the compressor.
There were two thicknesses in the o-ring kit that I bought. I used the thicker ones, is this correct? I'm hoping that I just pinched the new new o-ring at the compressor and replacing that will solve the problem.
The thin line was pretty hot, while the thick line stayed relatively cool. Is this supposed to happen?
My engine almost stalled when I would turn on the A/C.
I'm wondering if I hooked up the receiver/drier wrong. There was an arrow for in/out on it. From my shop manual the direction the system sends from the condenser to the evaporator, so I hooked up the receiver in this order Condenser-In(receiver)Out-Evaporator. Is this right?
There were two thicknesses in the o-ring kit that I bought. I used the thicker ones, is this correct? I'm hoping that I just pinched the new new o-ring at the compressor and replacing that will solve the problem.
The thin line was pretty hot, while the thick line stayed relatively cool. Is this supposed to happen?
My engine almost stalled when I would turn on the A/C.
I'm wondering if I hooked up the receiver/drier wrong. There was an arrow for in/out on it. From my shop manual the direction the system sends from the condenser to the evaporator, so I hooked up the receiver in this order Condenser-In(receiver)Out-Evaporator. Is this right?
#2
RE: Charging the A/C
Did you use nylog or somecompressor oil as lubricant on the orings? Did you match to old oring?
I've also had to match orings w/o a perfect match (thickness and/or diameter off very slightly) and not had problems. I would suggest trying another oring or puchasing a direct replacement from Honda, and good lubrication. Make sure you align the connectors carefully. Check vacuum by pulling vacuum and running vacuum pump for 10 minutes, and close your manifold valves. If vacuum level drops steadily and never stabilizes w/i 5 minutes, there is likely a leak.
good luck
I've also had to match orings w/o a perfect match (thickness and/or diameter off very slightly) and not had problems. I would suggest trying another oring or puchasing a direct replacement from Honda, and good lubrication. Make sure you align the connectors carefully. Check vacuum by pulling vacuum and running vacuum pump for 10 minutes, and close your manifold valves. If vacuum level drops steadily and never stabilizes w/i 5 minutes, there is likely a leak.
good luck
#3
RE: Charging the A/C
I used Nylog on all of them. I could match diameter, but not thickness. The OEM was somewhere in the middle, so I went with the thicker rings.
Did I get the receiver in there the right way?
Did I get the receiver in there the right way?
#4
RE: Charging the A/C
Receiver/drier hookup looks fine to me. You could have had the compressor swallow a slug of oil. This could cause a stall of engine. I usually put only a little oil in compressor and most in the new receiver/drier.
The thin line compressor-condensor should be hot , and warm-hot from the condensor to receiver/drier. Large return line from evaporator should be cold and sweating.
Match the orings as closely as possible. I would not use the thinner oring if it's smaller than original.
good luck
The thin line compressor-condensor should be hot , and warm-hot from the condensor to receiver/drier. Large return line from evaporator should be cold and sweating.
Match the orings as closely as possible. I would not use the thinner oring if it's smaller than original.
good luck
#5
RE: Charging the A/C
TexasHonda,
I am ready to refill my A/C system and and vacuuming down right now. Right now I am at -30 mmHg with my vacuum pump. When I hookup to the R134 can, do I have to jump the pressure switch (to turn on the compressor) by the drier to fill the system, or will the compressor kick on when there is enough freon in the system?
Thanks;
John
I am ready to refill my A/C system and and vacuuming down right now. Right now I am at -30 mmHg with my vacuum pump. When I hookup to the R134 can, do I have to jump the pressure switch (to turn on the compressor) by the drier to fill the system, or will the compressor kick on when there is enough freon in the system?
Thanks;
John
#6
RE: Charging the A/C
No, enough gas will flow into the system to close the pressure switch, kick start the compressor and allow total quantity to be pulled in. Crack your fittings at the manifold set to flush any air from the hoses before opening valves to your AC system. How are you measuring your charge? Most accords are 23 oz, which is roughly two cans 12-oz cans. There is a small amount of refrigerant left in the hoses and can.
good luck
good luck
#7
RE: Charging the A/C
yes the little line "high side" should get hot, the bigger pipe "low line" should be cool.
Here's a link to a chart that will help you get the pressures right;
http://img460.imageshack.us/img460/49/acchart0ii.jpg
Here's a link to a chart that will help you get the pressures right;
http://img460.imageshack.us/img460/49/acchart0ii.jpg
#8
RE: Charging the A/C
Ok, I'm filling right now. How long does it take to get enough gas in the system to shut the pressure switch and start the compressor. Right now both sides are at ~50 mmHG.
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fperezal
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06-14-2006 05:03 AM