Yea,I'm going to replace the fan and thermostat. Thanks

 

I highly recommend buying a thermostat from Honda. Aftermarket parts could cause some problems (not opening at the correct temp or poor quality). Worth the extra $ in my opinion.

 

OK, so I just replaced the condenser fan with a new unit. It works like a charm when the AC is running. Both fans come on. With AC off neither will come on when the car is at operating temp. I pulled the fan switch and jumped the connection and both fans come on when I turn the key to on. Fan switch bad? Thermostat bad and not letting coolant get warm enough to trip the fan switch? BTW, I have not messed with the thermostat yet. Thanks for your help.

 

Pay attention to the temperature gauge in the car.

The coolant needs to hit a certain temperature before the switch is closed and turns on the fan.

If the temperature gauge in the car stays normal, then you are ok.

If the temperature gauge gets above the half way mark and you still have no fans, then there is a problem.

 

Thanks, the temp gauge was sitting at the half way point in my driveway. Also the temp gauge is working normally since I replaced the coolant temp sensor.

 

FYI, if your temperature gauge starts to rise towards H and you have no fans, turn on the heat in the car full blast with outside air. This will help cool the engine and prevent damage.

My old 95 accord's temperature gauge stayed about 1/4 or 1/3 on the temperature scale. When the engine is cold, you should remove the radiator cap and make sure the radiator is full of coolant. If coolant is low, you would want to pressure test the cooling system to find any leaks in the radiator/hoses.

It wouldn't hurt to install a new thermostat. I highly recommend going with a Honda part from the dealership. There is a good ericthecarguy video on youtube showing how to install one with some useful pointers.

 

Thanks for the reply. The coolant is full when checked cold. The overflow bottle is also at the full mark when cold. I'm going to disconnect the battery and see if the code will reset at this point. The engine seems to run just fine. The transmission is also shifting nice and smooth. I drained the trans fluid a few weeks ago and refilled with the Honda stuff. It was very dirty and that drain plug was torqued on in a major way but I finally got it to break. I'll swing by my Honda dealer this weekend and p/u a thermostat.

 

I disconnected the battery and reset everything. It's good news bad news. The good news is the check engine light has not come back on. The bad news is the SRS light came on this morning and has stayed on. I've also lost my radio since I don't have the security code. Any advice on the SRS light? I've seen some posts where you jump the connector to clear the light but I can't figure out which one it is. My luck I'll blow up an air bag. Thanks

 

Getting the code for the radio is pretty easy, pretty sure the 6th gens will give you the serial number by holding the 1 and 6 preset buttons. Then with this a phone call to a dealer or two and they should give it to you over the phone,,,,,,google it and there should be some answers on how to get it - I get confused if the "1 and 6: buttons work on the 6th gen's or did they start tht with the 7th gen accord.

For the SRS, I'd want the code before re-setting it.....the most common code for these is the drivers seat "latch" switch. Many have be able to clean it and be fine. Others had to replace it, some got the dealer to cover it - yes even on a car that old, others have just replaced it with a new one (~$80 ??).

"Some" parts stores use readers that will read SRS codes so a few phone calls might not hurt.....assume you live outside of the country of CA as CA stores there will not do this for free.....ps, if you google long enough you will find posts on how to jump the DLC to get SRS/ABS and MIL codes the old school way.

 

Thanks poorman, I'm going to keep at it. I'll check the driver seat belt latch first.