Hello all! I am newly registered to this forum, although I have been browsing it as a guest for a while whenever I needed help. I registered because I need help getting my CEL to go off. There have been other posts with similair problems, but the solutions posted on those have not helped me. Let me give you a little timeline of events (the numbers of the codes may not be exactly right, I do not have the paperwork at the moment):

- July, 2011 - purchased car (01 Accord LX, 4 cylinder)

- December, 2011 - CEL Light is on, codes P1166 and P1167 (both primary oxygen sensor)

- June, 2012 - Finally swapped O2 sensor and reset battery, light turned off but quickly came back on

- June, 2012 - Got code pulled again at AutoZone, only one number came up. They recommended chcking wiring (I think it was P1167)

- July, 2012 - Got code pulled again (don't ask lol) and the same code (1167?) came up as well as a new one (P1045? It was for a ratio sensor).

My questions:
How do I get the light to turn off? My emissions test is due very soon and I've put this off for too long (my fault.) I've checked fuse 6 on both driver and passenger side as suggested and they both were fine. What else can I do?

Also, the most recent code was pulled from my friend's reader though not from a shop. could this possibly be an error since I have never had any problems with the ratio sensor before?

Thanks guys!!!

 

ULEV engine? What brand sensor?

 

P1167 is described as "Primary heated o2 sensor heater system malfunction" according to haynes
P1167 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Heater System Malfunction according to code thread in DIY.
P1045 - I can't find any info on this code and don't know why it would have been triggered.

IMO you need to check the continuity of your electrical wires.

 

Roader- yes, ULEV engine, and I just put in a Denso O2 sensor.

Silver- like I said I'm not sure if 1045 is the number I'm currently at work and don't have the paper on me, I'll know for sure later. And how would I check the continuity of my wires, I'm almost car illiterate

 

First off, how much did the o2 sensor cost? The primary o2 sensor on our car is a wideband sensor. If you paid 60-100 for the replacement part then you probably got sold a narrow band o2 sensor and that would cause all the problems you have described.

Wide-band o2 sensors are expensive as crap. If you have the old sensor compare the actual sensing part to the new one. they should look exactly the same. If you have the wrong one i'd suggest getting a replacement from a junkyard. Its usually 30% cheaper than the auto parts store and that could mean saving a good chunk of cash.


I wouldn't be surprised if you were sold a narrow band sensor as Autozone mistakenly sold me one because their computer didn't show my engine requiring the wideband.

 

I got mine off of Amazon for like $50, so that could be it. It was changed out a little over a month ago by a friend, not myself. I'll ask him if they looked the same.

 

friend who did the swap says they were identical

 

Amazon sells the O2 sensor for your car for $130 (Denso 234-9014) or $177 (NGK 24660.) For $50, it may look the same but it's likely that your friend replaced it with a non-ULEV narrowband which I'm guessing has higher heater resistance/less voltage drop.

 

Before I drop $130 (I'm a poor college kid, so that's kind of alot), is there any way I can be sure of this? Like could I take it to Auto Zone, a Honda dealership or something and have them take a look to be sure?

Also- this might help. Before I got the sensor swapped, the car would idle really sporadically, it would shake (almost like a lawn mower that's almost out of gas, how it goes from fast to slow to fast etc.) after it got changed out, it got alot better, but it still is a little sporadic, just not as violently

 

CORRECTION- last code was 1164 not 1045