Im just looking for any advice to be offered for maintaining my 89 Accord LX (80k). I really want to take care of it and make it nice, I know they can easily last 200,000+ miles.

I've seen on these cars the CV Joints always end up getting replaced. Also, has anyone had engine smoking (not overheating) problems on there 3rd gens? Everytime I drive it a wet spot developes in the upper left hand part of the radiator (I'm pretty sure my reserve tank is leaking too). There are many vacuum lines around the engine, it is quite confusing I guess I just need to inspect them every once and awhile. Has anyone had to replace the oil seals and gaskets or other such parts.?

Sometimes my key doesnt want to come out of the ignition when I shut it off (usually if I'm in a hurry). The rear power windows have failed (like ten years ago, Ive had this car in my resposibility for only 4 months) and the Drivers side one makes me push it down sometimes. (I like crank much more, they dont break). It seems to idle quite high 2500-800rpms if I start it and it is not warm, then I better be there to push the gas peddle a little to bring the rpms down to normal (wont go to idle by itself I have waited like 10 min. then gave up, this is only if it has sat overnight or longer). Slight vibration in steering wheel when going 65+mph.

Also, steering wheel and dash shake strongly when in drive at a stoplight/sign. If I put it in P or N it stops and is still as a Praying Mantis.

Oh and the rust on the engine and spots on exterior make me mad but it is 22 years old. I'll get body work done after engine is up to check..

So any help and advice on the topics listed above would be great...I look forward to hearing from poorman on this one.

 

This is going to be a long answer so sorry to everyone. I almost typed this up in a word doc and was just going to attach it, I was too big. If you don't have or plan on getting a 3rd gen Accord (86-89)...I would move on to the next post.

A few things first. I've never claimed to be any kind of expert, I just try to share what I've learned from either actually doing it, reading manuals or reading other posts-that is why we like to know the final outcome. It takes all of us on here looking over and after each of us to make this work. I make mistakes and hope other members double check and correct me. Reading all of these you can miss a year, a letter (DX vs EX) or mis-understand a question and up giving the wrong information by mistake.

I hope you have or are planning on getting a manual(s). I have the service manual you can download from spoonertuner (see DIY section or PM me as I have made CD copies for a few other members and mailed it to them). Also I have both the Haynes and Chilton. I'll read, look at all three when trying to figure out something.

I will only give high level answers to the questions. You'll need to tackle each one of these one at a time.

CV Joints- These things go bad. I don't think the 3rd gens are any harder on them than any other Honda.

Engine smoking- With the description you gave of also having a "wet" spot on the radiator, sounds like a rad leak. Not hard to change. I supervised my oldest just a week or two ago.

Gaskets/seals-I've only replaced as they go bad or another job has you "there anyway". Valve covers will eventually go. I change seals when "there"-you're due for a t-belt change, replace the cam and crank seal while you have everything off. Also replace the VC gasket and adjust the valves. I replaced the rear main when I first got the 87 (paid $200 for it 6~7 years ago because of the clutch being bad), clutch was gone when I bought it so while I was there...why not.

Vac Lines- Yes just check them every now and then. Only one I can say that is prone to go bad (carb'd 3rd gens) is #7 on the back of the carb at the base. I found this one burned on all three carb'd 3rd gens I've owned (had an 86 years ago). Feel a funny "skip/miss" around 45 mph (steady speed) in an auto-a manual trans will have a "dead" spot just as the secondary would open (1500~1800 rpm's) going thru any gear slowly, like a bad acel pump or power valve-fast acel you won't even really notice it.

Ign Switch-Key not coming out could be the switch or it may just need a little lube. One of mine (?) acts up in the winter. I use a spray Lock-ease product on it once every winter and it “clears” it up..till next winter.

Rear windows-(this is where you need a good manual to diagnose) Many ideas-fuses, relays, switches, motor. I personally have never had to replace ANY of the window motors on mine, and to have both rear motors go bad??? Could be as simple as the master switch being "off", big rocker switch on the drivers door?

Drivers side window-I’d start with pulling the panel and checking and lubing the window regulator and guides. Had a bolt come out of the regulator on the 87 causing it to be miss aligned.

High/Fast idle-Another place for the manuals. I have not had this issue with mine, knock on wood. However I’ve seen countless posts about this. Do some searching, here and google. Yours sounds like it is not “unloading”, there is a fast idle unloader on the pass side of the carb. The 2,500 doesn’t sound bad, just it doesn’t unload. I’d consider Hondadude (haven’t seen him in a while) the true expert on carb issues, look for posts from him about this issue.

65 MPH shake-Check the tires (good condition, rotate/balance). But then you had a question about CV shafts, they can also cause this type of shake. Usually the inner cv joint causes this issue. Or a bad mount-see next question.

Stoplight shake- Check the mounts. Classic description of a bad mount. Also, can’t remember, have you tuned it up lately. Don’t really think the tune up is the issue but it could be.

Last tip-not asked but I like to throw it out every now and then. IF you ever have to replace the Alt, do not remove the CV shaft as the "book" says. There is an easier way

If you actually read all of this and you're not the OP, I'm surprised. If anyone has anything to add, please do. Again, I just tried to give high level ideas/answers.

 

poorman, thank you for this info.
I do experience the skip/miss around 45mph sometimes, I will check line #7.

The wetspot rad. leak means I need to replace the radiator? right?

Tires are quite new actually I'll check the pressure and such.

And I'll plan on getting the CV Joints checked/replaced.

Timing belt is good for another 30k or so mech. changed it not long ago so I missed my chance for those seals and gaskets unless I take it apart but I'll worry about that last.

and I'll pm a or check DIY for the service manuals eventually..

 

Oh and the rear windows do try to go down, right one makes a loud thunking sound and wont go back up so I leave it up. Left one goes down 1/4 the way they are prob off track or something.

Motor Mounts I'll check replace if needed..

 

For the vac line, just looking it may seem fine. Give it a small push/tug with something and be sure it is connected...it burns/melts right at the base of the carb.

Pretty sure it is that rad. There are some UV dye's you can add to the coolant to be sure. But if you are seeing "smoke" from under the hood and have the "wet" spot....I can only assume there is a leak there......pic's?

I'm confused about you're comments on the t-belt..."Timing belt is good for another 30k or so mech. changed it not long ago". On these the t-belt is good for ~100K or 7 years. The t-belt is behind the black plastic covers...have to remove the crank bolt, both covers and the valve cover to get to it. And this is the best time to change to water pump..please note on this gen you can change the wp without removing the lower t-belt cover....

 

T-belt changed about 3 years ago havent put 5000 miles on it since.

Just today I raised the car up on ramps to drain and fill the ATF, took a while to find the drain bolt then saw it and realized how easy it was to do.

While I was under there I saw this tiny black hose disconnected from a tiny nipple right on the back of the front axle where the wheels turn. My Power Steering fluid level has been going down way faster than normal and this was a supply hose, power steering fluid had been spraying all over the undercarriage (i saw this) getting on my exhaust pipe and smoking, so i reconnected and clamped it, I guess thats what was smoking and giving off a burnt like smell....

And about that vac line i saw it but its in a tight spot behind there I figure I need to lift the air intake manifold (surrounding carb) to reach it better.?

EDIT: Went to adv. auto parts website I can get a new radiator for 100 bucks.

 

T-belt-I understand now, thanks for clearing that up for me...see I get confused.

Trans change ...I also changed the 95 yesterday...after a while you'll find that you don't even have to raise the car, at least I don't anymore. Turn the wheels all the way to the right...should be good to go.

The hose you found? I'm confused again..where exactly was it, I'm wondering if that was a "vent" tube between the rack boots. If so there should not be fluid coming out of it....pic's

The tube above my make changing the rad a non issue? See if you local store rents a cooling system pressure tester to be sure. Also if it is the rad, of course get new upper and lower hoses and change those while "you're there". If you do have to replace it, PM me and I'll give tips on getting the cooling fans out of the way so it comes out/in with ease..you'll need an extra set of hands.

Yes to get to that hose you will have to remove the lower part of the air cleaner..four nuts, three/four(?) vac lines connecting to the air cleaner base, big tube on drivers side and it should come right off.