I've had a very rare issue with it no starting once in awhile, but it ALWAYS starts up and is FINE within a few minutes (Details here: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ndition-55896/ )

I drive this car to wichita (an hour away) all of the time. No problem. So picture this, I'm in jail 2 days and supposed to go over to wichita to get on house arrest as soon as I'm released.

Great so I leave the jail, car starts right up, I'm on my way to the house arrest store, and 3 miles into the trip (before I'm on the highway) the car just SHUTS DOWN. It's literally just as if someone reached over and shut the key off.

They went back later that night, tried to start it, nothing- just cranking.

They bring it to me today, try to start it, nothing- just cranking.

It's cranking strong, the battery and starter are good. I checked for spark and have none. I hear the fuel pump coming on.

Could this be the main relay or is that just a fuel relay?
What is my next step for diagnosis? I checked and could not find any relays under the hood except for ingnition. I tapped on the MFR. .

I was going to look for injector fuses under the dash but since I have no spark.. eh .... not sure what to do. The coil wire seems to be seated properly..

Thank you!!

 

I'm out there messing with the connectors to the coil and all and trying to start it some more and I smell gas under the hood.. still no spark. I tried the hold the pedal to the floor to shut injectors off, too, anyway I am fairly sure I'm getting fuel

 

So far I have been reading and I'll be checking..

"ECU fuse in the fuse box under the dash"
(Put the key in your car, turn it to the ON positions, don't start it. Watch the CEL... Does it come on for 1-2 seconds and go off? If not, check your Main Relay switch witch is under the driver side kick panel. This Main Relay switch are known to fail in 91-93 Accord as the soldering joints crack. If it does go off... Turn the car completely off. Turn the key to the ON position which is accessories listen for a click noise somewhere around the dash while watching the CEL, when it goes off listen for another click noise. If you don't hear the first or second click then check your main relay switch. So, as you turn the ignition switch to the ON position (the one when all your instrument lights come on) you should hear a click and when the CEL goes off theres another click you should hear. I've had 2 Accords, a 91 and a 93 that wouldn't start due to a main relay switch.)


and


"check the ignition module in the disributor, check the coil, also check your cap and rotor. if it just quit while driving Id say that either your module or coil flunked out."


and

"the ignitor is the black chip on the top of the distributor and the ignition coil is the small box that has a wire running from it to the cap itself."

and

"Had this happen to me twice, on two different accords. 91, and a 93 Both times it was a control module in the distributor. There are 3 different control modules in the distributor. It a guessing game which one is bad, so just replace the distributor. I am 99.9% sure this models do not have C.P.S's. the distributor controls everything.
wiseguy01
02-03-2008, 06:20 PM
yes they do have crank sensors they are located in the distributor"

and

"ground to PCM at thermostat housing. These get coorosion and need to be removed cleaned"

"On your 93 - it is on the t-start housing where the lower hose connects to the engine."

"The ground is a rounded circular connector that is facing up and bolted to the bottom right of the thermostat housing. It has a rubber-type covering around the wiring as it goes back to the ecu side. "

and

"I had the same problem with my 93 AND 95 civic's and it was the control modual. But a cost effective repair was to replace the whole dizzy. costs about the same to replace one piece or the whole....go figure. Just make sure to make a mark on the dizzy and the engine and transfer the mark from the old to the new. what I did was trace the the outline of the dizzy post on a piece of paper place the new over the tracing and transfer the mark worked for me with no need for timing adjustment."



Anyone have any idea of the best place to start?
Thanks

 

I also read that it could be the timing belt broken, but it does sound normal when I crank on it.. nothing violent or loud or abnormal happened in terms of any noises or anything. I'm just driving, it shuts off like I turned the key off, no restart

To me- that sounds like it must be the coil or distributor or ignitor???

And if the rotor turns when I crank on it, the belt is not broken?
The belt was done @ 100 and it's @ 199 now and I've heard of these going to 200k on the original one, so I SHOULD be okay... I think?

Also, it never gasped or sputtered or anything at all so I don't THINK I lost the fuel pump?

ANY input on where to start would be GREAT

 

Warning lamps (oil, battery) when it shuts off?

If NOT, then it's acting JUST LIKE you switched off the key. Check out a flaky ignition switch.

If it stalls becuase of fuel supply, spark, or most other things, the warning lamps would come on just like they would if you stalled the engine with the clutch.

 

I don't remember what the lights did when it shut off, but I am pretty sure they are coming on normally-- I just meant that the motor itself shut off as if the key had been turned off... sorry I wasn't more clear

 

Need to test the ICM inputs and the coil - part of the input test to the ICM is to be sure you have 12v to the BLK/YEL wire at the dist when the key is on.

 

Got a click and CEL upon turning the key, hear a click from the gas tank, CEL shuts off and it clicks.. I took off the cap, the rotor DOES turn, no oil inside, no way to probe anything yet though

 

Yea, sounds like a spark issue.....this might help: Honda Acura ignition (no spark) troubleshooting tutorial - How to

 

Yeah there's no spark, period, anywhere.. I turn the key, click+cel on+fuel pump runs - then click+cel goes out.. all of the lights seem to come on normally.. NO movement of rpm needle AT ALL while cranking..

From the diag guide "All of the gauges go dark when in the ON position but if held between the on and start position they light up." is NOT true which means it's not the ignition switch, which makes me think I need a coil, but then if it needs a coil "Engine cranks but RPM needle on the gauge is slightly moving, but no spark. " would be true...

But the lights working properly and pump coming on and the clicks all add up to the main relay and ecu being alright... is that correct?

Is there anything else I can try? I'm stuck here without any tools, HOPEFULLY will have access to a test light tomorrow though ... I think that'll help quite a bit