Thank you for the replies. The vehicle is a 97 accord lx 4dr with w 98 accord 2.3 f23a1 engine. Its been a headache with this car as I didn't know about the engine swap when i bought it. But this is what I know about it, its a 98 motor, the transmission, all the accessories, intake and fuel rail are all original. The wire harness is original, and its all being run from a 97 non VTEC computer. I really appreciate all of the input. Thanks

 

F23A1 is a VTEC engine, so the non-VTEC computer can have something to do with it.

Seems like the best way to do a swap like that is to use the computer & etc. from the 1998 donor car.

Not sure whether it makes more sense for you to get your hands on an ECM for the 1998 F23A1. Or even a 1997 VTEC ECM might be better than what you have now.

 

When keyswitch is turned to On, does your check engine light come on for 2-3 secs and go off?

Is Check Engine Light on? If yes, what obd2 codes are presented?

good luck

 

There's no check engine light at all. Turn the key to on position and all of the other dummy lights come on except for that one. Old codes pulled were for the ECT sensor and IAC valve. But I erased them after I plugged in the temp sensor. I'm driving it and waiting for the computer to reprogram itself and recheck codes. As far as computer, what computer should I run? I was looking and found that the 97 accord ex had VTEC. Should I run that one? Even then, I've found a few of them, which one would be best? I really appreciate all of yalls help.

 

From your description the Check Engine Light is non-functioning (burnt out), however obd2 codes will still be detected and stored in the ECM. Suggest downloading them to see what is presented.

I think you're running the correct (original ECM) which will not drive the VTEC, but also will not set a false VTEC fault code. W/ a non-vtec harness you will have to create additional wiring to support vtec w/ a replacement ECM or a code will be set.

Loss of VTEC is minor impact IMO. It only comes into play at higher rpm/acceleration which is infrequent, unless you have a leadfoot.

good luck

 

Unfortunately I do have a leadfoot and would like to hok up the VTEC. From what I've read its just 2 wires that run to the ecu? But which ecu should I use? I've found a couple but they have different part numbers. Also, update from the original issue. Unfortunately yesterday morning the idle started pulsating high then low simultaneously, and that points directly at the IAC valve correct?

 

Oscillating idle speed indicates IACV is working, but can't stabilize idle. It can be a bad IACV, but most likely an intake air leak is causing the situation. Brake booster, PCV are prime candidates.

Low coolant level also can cause this problem.

You should look for a ECM that matches your engine/trans combination. Surprises may be encountered. A Honda factory service manual is suggested; automanualsource.com for $22.

good luck

 

Also, I just noticed the the IAC valves have different part numbers for non VTEC and VTEC. So will the VTEC one plug and play with the original harness?

 

It should be OK. IACV is 2-wire, ground and supply, device in both. FSM doesn't say anything about separate IACV's.

Distributor may be more of a problem, as the B1 engine has CYP, CKP, and TDC detectors in distributor, but B2 engine has different distributor, although all three sensors are in distributor. Hopefully, your wiring harness will match.

good luck

 

I'll order a manual today. The idle only goes irratic every once in a while. It will sit for a little while and then go back to normal. I'll double check the intak for leaks but I just replaced the gaskets, pcv valve and brake booster are both in good shape. I'll try and pull codes today, its been a week so the computer is hopefully reset itself. I'm going to o ahead and look up all of the parts needed to get the VTEC connected. I'm hoping the distributor plugs and plays, I hate messing with the wiring. I've cleaned it up a lot from whoever did the swap originally. Where are you from Texas Honda? I'm in Houston.