Couple of questions for you guys and gals
#1
Unregistered
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Couple of questions for you guys and gals
Hi all
I have a 1999 20ies accord and I need to do a couple of jobs on it first I need to change the upper wishbone on the front end both sides I have bought the new wishbones but I have just had a look and it seems like the bolt are fouled by the shocker?so do I need to remove this before I can remove the wishbone or will their be room to get the bolts out ?
secondly:
I am attemting to change all brake pads and disc's /rotor's I have done the front ones no problems but the rear ones are becoming a right pain I have the piston wind tool to take the piston back but it wont budge it is really tight I am just wondering if their is something I am doing wrong or something I have to do first before winding it back?
any help will be great;y appreaciated
thank you
freeze
I have a 1999 20ies accord and I need to do a couple of jobs on it first I need to change the upper wishbone on the front end both sides I have bought the new wishbones but I have just had a look and it seems like the bolt are fouled by the shocker?so do I need to remove this before I can remove the wishbone or will their be room to get the bolts out ?
secondly:
I am attemting to change all brake pads and disc's /rotor's I have done the front ones no problems but the rear ones are becoming a right pain I have the piston wind tool to take the piston back but it wont budge it is really tight I am just wondering if their is something I am doing wrong or something I have to do first before winding it back?
any help will be great;y appreaciated
thank you
freeze
#2
Describe your "piston wind tool". Does it push the piston straight in? The rear piston needs to rotate in, like you're tightening a bolt. Clockwise to retract the piston & make room for new pads. (That's all because of the handbrake auto-adjust mechanism.)
#3
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hey thanks for the reply
Sorry I should have said at first yes it is the kind that rotates and compresses at the sme time as I have done my homework and found out about the hand brake mech as you have kindly mentioned, Its just as I am turning it, it seems very tight and I dont want to try to hard incase I damage the caliper
thanks again
Sorry I should have said at first yes it is the kind that rotates and compresses at the sme time as I have done my homework and found out about the hand brake mech as you have kindly mentioned, Its just as I am turning it, it seems very tight and I dont want to try to hard incase I damage the caliper
thanks again
#4
Well, to me it feels like lots of resistance, but smooth. There's rubber seals around the piston, and then there's the dust boot which you have to mind (don't let it wrinkle & tear).
I normally use a 1-inch putty knife as a screwdriver in that big slot in the piston face. It's the kind of resistance where it'll move slowly & smoothly.
I normally use a 1-inch putty knife as a screwdriver in that big slot in the piston face. It's the kind of resistance where it'll move slowly & smoothly.
#5
Unregistered
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Cheers for the reply JIM I have seen it done before with the big screwdriver/puttyknife tool but mine just feel like they are way to tight and Im scared of putting any real force behind it incase I damage the caliper and have to buy new ones mainly because I did this to my dads last year due to not doing my homework correctly if indeed they are seized is their a way to free them like spraying them and leaving it to soak or easing it out a bit more with the pedal and then trying to take it back in ? Ill try anything if you think it will help
thanks again
freeze
thanks again
freeze
Well, to me it feels like lots of resistance, but smooth. There's rubber seals around the piston, and then there's the dust boot which you have to mind (don't let it wrinkle & tear).
I normally use a 1-inch putty knife as a screwdriver in that big slot in the piston face. It's the kind of resistance where it'll move slowly & smoothly.
I normally use a 1-inch putty knife as a screwdriver in that big slot in the piston face. It's the kind of resistance where it'll move slowly & smoothly.
#6
I have not run into the problem you describe. I bet you'll have to dismantle the caliper. (Take out the piston, seals, & dismantle the handbrake stuff.) That requires some strange long-nose snap-ring pliers.
For a start you might disconnect the hose, pour rust-dissolver in (Kroil, Liquid-Wrench, PB-Blaster, etc.) Then if it doesn't free up, you might have to buy rebuilt calipers anyway. Any chance they've been damaged by a previous mechanic pressing them straight in with a C-clamp?
Sorry I'm not much help, but mine have always turned. Without applying much force they DO turn but very slowly.
For a start you might disconnect the hose, pour rust-dissolver in (Kroil, Liquid-Wrench, PB-Blaster, etc.) Then if it doesn't free up, you might have to buy rebuilt calipers anyway. Any chance they've been damaged by a previous mechanic pressing them straight in with a C-clamp?
Sorry I'm not much help, but mine have always turned. Without applying much force they DO turn but very slowly.
#7
I've usually managed to turn them w/ a wood chisel end. I've found the intial turn or so to be very hard, at least w/ only my wrist for torque. If you have leverage w/ a ratchet-driven tool, that would be different. I don't think you can damage anything w/ wrist-only torque.
good luck
good luck
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