Creaking Noise while braking with medium pressure
#1
09-23-2009, 12:33 AM
Unregistered
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Creaking Noise while braking with medium pressure
2007 Accord Coupe EX-V6
I am actually dealing with two issues which may or may not be related.
A creaking noise coming from the left front wheel in time with the wheel turning when braking at low speeds, such as slowing down for a stop.
A few months back I had the dealer check several parts. Here are the results:
1. Left front wheel bearing is noisy. Replaced the left front wheel bearing assembly.
2. Backing plate is bent, also replaced during bearing replacement.
3. Fault outer CV joint. Boots not torn. Replaced the outer CV joint assembly.
This seemingly cured the problem. I drove normally for a couple of days and than began my cross country trip. 600 miles a day for seven straight days.
The car ran to perfection during those first few days going through the desert...
Suddenly as I'm pulling into the motel parking lot at the end of day 5, I heard the noise again.
Problem 2 arises
For the rest of the trip and since then, the creaking noise has returned as well the steering wheel shakes about 60-65 mph...
The creaking has only gotten worse in my regular driving routine.
I bought the car in for an oil change (Honda dealership) and was told something was causing my left front tire to wear down faster than the others. Could this all be related?
Had the car aligned, but now a few months later it is off again.
Doing some research this week I found out about the 5 part series on "Excessive Steering Wheel Shimmy or Chassis Vibration" in the Honda technical bulletin and downloaded all of the files.
So today I brought the car into a different dealership. The mechanics there are seeing it for the first time. I explained the creaking noise, the original problem and the mechanic after inspecting stated the following:
Warped rotor
Tech found the rotors on the front are making the pads go in and out on the slider causing it to squeak recommend replacing front rotors.
They also want to replace the same wheel bearing after finding that the "balljoint is leaking".
So now I don't know what to think. The rotor replacement will not covered by Honda Care, so I'd like to know before going forward and paying for it if that repair is the right one.
thoughts on any of this?
I am actually dealing with two issues which may or may not be related.
A creaking noise coming from the left front wheel in time with the wheel turning when braking at low speeds, such as slowing down for a stop.
A few months back I had the dealer check several parts. Here are the results:
1. Left front wheel bearing is noisy. Replaced the left front wheel bearing assembly.
2. Backing plate is bent, also replaced during bearing replacement.
3. Fault outer CV joint. Boots not torn. Replaced the outer CV joint assembly.
This seemingly cured the problem. I drove normally for a couple of days and than began my cross country trip. 600 miles a day for seven straight days.
The car ran to perfection during those first few days going through the desert...
Suddenly as I'm pulling into the motel parking lot at the end of day 5, I heard the noise again.
Problem 2 arises
For the rest of the trip and since then, the creaking noise has returned as well the steering wheel shakes about 60-65 mph...
The creaking has only gotten worse in my regular driving routine.
I bought the car in for an oil change (Honda dealership) and was told something was causing my left front tire to wear down faster than the others. Could this all be related?
Had the car aligned, but now a few months later it is off again.
Doing some research this week I found out about the 5 part series on "Excessive Steering Wheel Shimmy or Chassis Vibration" in the Honda technical bulletin and downloaded all of the files.
So today I brought the car into a different dealership. The mechanics there are seeing it for the first time. I explained the creaking noise, the original problem and the mechanic after inspecting stated the following:
Warped rotor
Tech found the rotors on the front are making the pads go in and out on the slider causing it to squeak recommend replacing front rotors.
They also want to replace the same wheel bearing after finding that the "balljoint is leaking".
So now I don't know what to think. The rotor replacement will not covered by Honda Care, so I'd like to know before going forward and paying for it if that repair is the right one.
thoughts on any of this?
#2
09-23-2009, 07:30 AM
I don't understand the part about replacing the wheel bearing when the balljoint is leaking. A bad balljoint means you replace the balljoint.
A bad balljoint can explain all these things...
uneven tire wear
alignment moving around
shake/shimmy
I have heard people complain about brake rotors warping quickly on the newer Accords, but it hasn't happened to ME. Check out in the DIY section - I put something in there about "bedding-in" the rotors.
A bad balljoint can explain all these things...
uneven tire wear
alignment moving around
shake/shimmy
I have heard people complain about brake rotors warping quickly on the newer Accords, but it hasn't happened to ME. Check out in the DIY section - I put something in there about "bedding-in" the rotors.
#3
09-23-2009, 08:30 PM
Unregistered
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For the first time in a couple of months, I couldn't hear the noise at all today.
This is yet another reason why I'm questioning the need for a new rotor.
So what did the tech do the other day while diagnosing? take the wheel apart?
This is yet another reason why I'm questioning the need for a new rotor.
So what did the tech do the other day while diagnosing? take the wheel apart?
Last edited by babbittd; 09-24-2009 at 02:44 AM.
#4
09-24-2009, 06:47 AM
If the brakes actually pulsate, then you need a rotor (new or resurface yours). The real question is why it happened so soon. The original work did or did not include new rotors?? Do you feel it in the actual brake pedal shaking, or is it just that the car generally shakes while you brake?
What did the tech do? Good question. I'd like to hear how a leaking balljoint can make the wheelbearing go bad. Did you misunderstand?
If the balljoint is leaking, replace it's rubber boot (or the whole balljoint). If the wheelbearing is bad, replace it. They don't have to cause one another.
What did the tech do? Good question. I'd like to hear how a leaking balljoint can make the wheelbearing go bad. Did you misunderstand?
If the balljoint is leaking, replace it's rubber boot (or the whole balljoint). If the wheelbearing is bad, replace it. They don't have to cause one another.
#5
09-24-2009, 10:47 AM
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
If the brakes actually pulsate, then you need a rotor (new or resurface yours). The real question is why it happened so soon. The original work did or did not include new rotors?? Do you feel it in the actual brake pedal shaking, or is it just that the car generally shakes while you brake?
What did the tech do? Good question. I'd like to hear how a leaking balljoint can make the wheelbearing go bad. Did you misunderstand?
If the balljoint is leaking, replace it's rubber boot (or the whole balljoint). If the wheelbearing is bad, replace it. They don't have to cause one another.
#6
09-24-2009, 11:29 AM
Car shaking at 75 --- does this happen only when braking? Does it shake while just driving? If it shakes without braking, then I'd say it's wheel balancing.
Balljoint is different from CV joint.
The CV joint is part of the front axle. If you look behind the wheel, there's a larg-ish rubber bellows where the axle sticks into the center of the hub/knuckle. THAT's the outer CV joint.
The inboard CV joint is on the axle, inboard, close to where the axle enters the transmission.
The balljoints are the attachments between the steering knuckle and the suspension arms. The upper balljoint is part of the upper control arm, #5&6. It's rubber boot is #7.
The lower balljoint is part of the knuckle, #2&3. It's rubber boot is #4.
There's a 3rd balljoint where the steering tie rod attaches to the knuckle.
If the rubber boots tear, it'll spill grease out. Especially for the rubber boot of the CV joints on the axle - they have lots of grease & they're spinning. It makes a big greasy mess, but doesn't usually hurt the wheel bearing.
If a balljoint has had a torn boot for a while, it's ball-&-socket action will get all loose & sloppy. THAT will contribute to shaking, and if it gets real bad, the suspension can even fall apart while you drive.
Balljoint is different from CV joint.
The CV joint is part of the front axle. If you look behind the wheel, there's a larg-ish rubber bellows where the axle sticks into the center of the hub/knuckle. THAT's the outer CV joint.
The inboard CV joint is on the axle, inboard, close to where the axle enters the transmission.
The balljoints are the attachments between the steering knuckle and the suspension arms. The upper balljoint is part of the upper control arm, #5&6. It's rubber boot is #7.
The lower balljoint is part of the knuckle, #2&3. It's rubber boot is #4.
There's a 3rd balljoint where the steering tie rod attaches to the knuckle.
If the rubber boots tear, it'll spill grease out. Especially for the rubber boot of the CV joints on the axle - they have lots of grease & they're spinning. It makes a big greasy mess, but doesn't usually hurt the wheel bearing.
If a balljoint has had a torn boot for a while, it's ball-&-socket action will get all loose & sloppy. THAT will contribute to shaking, and if it gets real bad, the suspension can even fall apart while you drive.
Last edited by JimBlake; 09-24-2009 at 11:32 AM.
#8
09-25-2009, 06:39 AM
Get the wheels balanced. Another thing to try is swap your wheels around - see if the vibration moves to a different corner.
A loose balljoint can make an out-of-balance wheel seem worse. As the wheel tries to vibrate, the loose balljoint allows it to shake more, so those 2 problems kinda build onto each other. A loose balljoint needs to be replaced, so if it's loose, you can't simply replace the rubber boot.
A loose balljoint can make an out-of-balance wheel seem worse. As the wheel tries to vibrate, the loose balljoint allows it to shake more, so those 2 problems kinda build onto each other. A loose balljoint needs to be replaced, so if it's loose, you can't simply replace the rubber boot.
#9
09-26-2009, 01:33 AM
Unregistered
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JimBlake, thank you very much for your assistance and explanations. I'm taking the car in on Sunday to figure out exactly what needs to be done with the ball joint and the wheel bearing (if anything). And since I haven't heard the noise since they looked at the car the other day, I have to question them a little further on that and their suggestion to replace the rotor. Next steps after that will be to balance the wheels.
#10
09-28-2009, 06:53 AM
Unregistered
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They're in the process this morning of replacing both the ball joint and the wheel bearing...
Just to clarify I think some confusion was on me.
Here's what the tech actually wrote:
"Tech found that the rotors on the front are making the pads go in and out on the slider causing it to squeak. Recommend replacing front rotors.
Tech also found front balljoint is leaking. Recommend replacing. Also would need to replace wheel bearing for knuckle."
I asked why the noise went away after the tech looked at it and the service manager said something about the tech probably cleaning some of the rust off the rotor. I really need to carry a recorder or start writing these things down. In an event, they think the noise will return at some point.
Just to clarify I think some confusion was on me.
Here's what the tech actually wrote:
"Tech found that the rotors on the front are making the pads go in and out on the slider causing it to squeak. Recommend replacing front rotors.
Tech also found front balljoint is leaking. Recommend replacing. Also would need to replace wheel bearing for knuckle."
I asked why the noise went away after the tech looked at it and the service manager said something about the tech probably cleaning some of the rust off the rotor. I really need to carry a recorder or start writing these things down. In an event, they think the noise will return at some point.