94 accord lx f22b2 code 9 pops up only when the weather gets cold, and engine is started cold. Once shut off, and restarted while engine is still warm, it doesn't come back on. Started after I had adjusted my valves a little over a year ago. I've researched it a bit, and for the most part it seems replacing the dist. Is the only option. But I've also found people are seeing this shortly after an timing belt replacement. Well, about three weeks before I had adjusted my valves, I bought a t-belt kit, water pump, oil pump, and front crank seal. (I was a service advisor at a fairly large Honda dealer here in the city) I was planning on doing the job myself, but we were slow at the moment, and the shop foreman offered to do the work for free out of boredom. He had been the shop foreman for about three years, and an ASE certified master diagnostic tech for about 15 years, spending 25 years total turning wrenches at that same Honda dealer. I thought, who better to hand my keys to, and take the work off my hands for such a reasonable price of $0.00? Well, could be have possibly set the balance shaft belt off slightly? Or could the valve adjustment I performed have caused an issue? I did the plugs, cap, and rotor when I bought the car, but hell, that was over 40,000 miles ago now. Could the need for a tune up cause this? I pulled the cap off the other day, and didn't see any dust built up to indicate that the bearing in the distributor had spun. And like I said, it only happens when it is below 40 degrees or so outside. Once spring hits, no light until winter starts rolling around again. Hoping to avoid replacing the distributor, considering that money is very tight these days

 

The problem could be the cylinder position sensor, the wiring, or the ECU.

The cylinder position sensor for code 9 is in the distributor, so I'd remove the cap and look for any damaged wiring to that sensor. That sensor has the orange and white wire. Unplug the 8-pin connector to the distributor to inspect the pins for a bad connection.

I'd measure resistance on the sensor at the 8-pin connector and also at the ECU (pins B11 and B12) when the car is cold. The resistance should be the same regardless of where you measure. Inspect the ECU and connector for loose pins too.

If you consistently get a CEL when it is cold, pull the ECU and take in your home so it is warm. Plug in the ECU into a cold car and see if you get the CEL.

Once you determine the cause, I'd suggest finding parts a u-pull-it junkyard. The distributors and ECUs are pretty reliable on these cars.

 

Ok awesome. Thanks a lot. I figured it is probably the sensor, because I put a junkyard distributor in it not too long before this problem started coming about. Reason for the junkyard distributor was because the igniter had gone bad in the one I had in it. But it was probably four or five months after the junkyard part was thrown in before it got cold enough to trip the light. It was just co incidental that it happened right after the timing belt was done, and literally I think the day after I did the valve adjustment. I've never tested the sensor, or the Resistance at the ECU because doesn't change the perfomace in any way, and doesn't really bother me. But I'll test them today. Thanks for your help!

 

That distributor can be had for $65.00 on ebay.
1990 1991 1994 1995 Honda Accord Ignition Distributor 2 2L | eBay

 

Yeah, I picked one up the other day from the local parts store that we do a lot of business with. He had one in stock that listed for almost $300, but they hooked me up for $108. Slapped it in, and everything is great. Thanks for the help!