I have a 2000 Accord SE (4 cyl) and had a problem with the dashlights - dashlights go out when I turn the headlights on. I seached the internet and found this forum and a couple of discussions describing this exact problem! (https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for....php?t=15141It) It happened after I replaced the deck - but not immediately after - more like weeks after so that may be a coincidence.

Since I didnt think I was able to replace the unit myself, I took it to the dealer. I mentioned the multiplex unit and was told that they had to run through all the diagnostic tests first before they would decide if that was the problem. After 3+ hours of testing last week and more today, they decided that it is the drivers side multiplex control unit and will be replacing it tomorrow. The total cost of this repair is just over $600!!! Yikes!!!

I have searched around some more and found TSBs about the problem but they only refer to the V6 models. The dealer searched the VIN for recalls and found none.

Do I have any chance at fighting this bill? If so, how do I approach it? What do I need to show to prove this is a known issue? Who do I talk to? The dealer? Or do I call Honda directly (ie the number listed on the TSBs)? The car will be ready tomorrow - do I pay the bill and fight it later?

Anyone have any experience with this?

Will this contol unit fail again with the new deck installed or have the units been redesigned?

Thanks!

 

The car is now ready and I have been told that if I put back in the after-market deck, they will not warranty the job.

Is it the deck which caused the unit to burn out? Does that really mean that I am stuck with the stock deck???

 

I have a 1999 and aftermarket deck. Is the mulitplexor replaced yet? I would wait to do that job until you do more research. When the new deck was installed, the auto dim/illumination wire may have been connected to the orange wire in the harness. For some reason, 98-02 Accords don't do the auto dim thing (when you turn on your headlights, the deck dims a little bit) and will cause lighting issues. When I installed my deck, I connected that wire and had a ton of issues with interior lights and brake lights not working.

I don't think it's a multiplexor issue at all, but then again, if it's fixed you could try reinstalling the deck without attaching the orange/white illumination wire. If it happens again, just take the deck out before you go to the dealer and replace it with the stock one. A wire harness bought at best buy or circuit city, etc. plugs right into the facotry plug so they wouldn't be able to tell.

 

LMAO $600!!! YIKES !!!!
The american people sent in millions of surveys to JD Powers demanding more "electronic" controls.
Now when they fail and there is a big bill to pay, people whine and cry about the cost of main't to JD Powers.
Now the manufacturers are cutting flat rate pay to the techs to lower the costs of main't. Not the cost of parts or anyone elses pay.
Soon only mental midgets will be working at the dealership and the Quality of service will fall to all time lows.
So my feelings are that if it takes 3 hours to diagnose an electronic control unit.....thats just tough luck.
The american consumer has gotten Exactly what they asked for, and the future of service quality is Exactly what they deserve.

 

Can you please tell me if this solved your problem...thanks

 

This information was very helpful. We had installed an after market stereo/CD/Ipod player and it had a lot of lights/display on it. I think this caused the MultiPlex Control Unit on my 2000 Honda Accord LX to burn out. The MultiPlex Control Unit (MCU) was exactly as described. It was mounted to the fuse panel on the drivers side door jam. Before replacing anything electrical, make sure to disconnect the negative terminal on your battery! To get to the MCU, I had to take the dash trim under the steering wheel area off. There was one bolt and two slide snaps that held the fuse box in place. It was very tight trying to work around the wires going to the fuse box, so I disconnected all of the wire harnesses that snapped into the fuse panel. What was nice about that is that Honda made each snap a different size and shap so it would only go back into one of the slots on the fuse panel. You couldn't plug it back into the wrong slot. The MCU was held in place by four slide locks, two on each side. It takes a little time to get this out without cracking the plastic, so take your time. Once you have the old one out, snap in the new one and reconnect all the wire harnesses. Make sure you have everything connected and secure, and look to make sure you didn't break or pull out any wires.

To keep from burning out my new MCU, I pulled my new radio out of the dash and disconnected the orange/white wire coming from my Honda wire harness and into the new radio. The orange/white wire is what controls dimming the lights on the radio when you turn on your parking or headlights. Some radios give you the feature to manually dim your radio lights if you still need to do so. I recommend disconnecting this wire or you will burn out the new MCU within a few months.

In all, this was a pretty easy fix once I found a place to order my new MCU. There are several websites that sell the MCU's. I got mine for $100.00. Good luck!

 

Hi, There is a recall on the Honda Accord for the interior lights on the dash malfunctioning. You may be able to get this fixed for nothing. They listed the recall in 2004, and I believe there is a 10 yr. statute of limitations on recalls.

 

I have the same issue. Dash lights turn off when headlights turned on. Checked all fuses and relays, disconnected the dimmer wire. Is there a way to test the MCU before replacing it to make sure thats the problem?

 

In the following thread (which was referred to in the first post of this thread), follow HondatechAV6 advice starting with post #11 and on.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...s-15141/page2/

If you want, this youtube link shows a way for a cheap fix; but, you will lose the dimmer function. If you do the cheap fix, do not leave the paper clip there; connect a wire instead. Or if you want, after doing the test, you can replace the driver's side under-dash muliplexer.

 

This is information on the driver's side multiplex control unit and shows replacement instructions:

Driver's Side Multiplex Control Unit