The saga continues...

I re-checked the ECU for any stored codes, which there weren't any.

I re-installed the tested ICM, put in the orginal coil and still only had cranking with no start.

I replaced the old coil with the new coil and still only had cranking with no start.

Pulled fuse 13 (clock) for 10 seconds to ensure the ECU was cleared and tried again with the same result.

I then decided to try something different and pulled two plugs and poured about a thimble of fuel in each clyinder, quickly re-installed the plugs and the vehicle tried to light off.

PA or Desert or anyone else that thinks they can shed a light - Do you think it is possible for the fuel pump to be operating but the filter screen be plug and not allowing fuel to flow?

If you read my original post, this problem started the first time with my daughter filling up with gas and within a mile the vehicle quit. Even though I had several successful test runs, the vehicle failed to start after a hour test in over 100 degree heat when shut off.

 

I would charge the battery, then try your spark test again.

You should have the battery tested at a parts store just to be sure it is in good shape.

While you are at the parts store having the battery tested, pick up a can of starting fluid. Have someone try to start the car with the gas pedal pushed down. Spray the starting fluid into the throttle body with the intake tube removed. See if the car will start and run while you spray starting fluid in there.

 

I have a good battery in my other vehicle, I'll try just switching them out and see if the results change. I tried some starting fluid, but it knocked so hard I was afraid of doing damage. Do you think carb or brake cleaner would be better?

My thought about the weak spark was based on as many times as having the battery disconnected, all of the operational information has been cleared from the ECU. If fuel is not getting to the engine the ECU doesn't have any reference for spark. I know I'm grasping, but damn I'm tired.

Thanks for your help and not giving up on me!

 

It's also possible that the fuel pump is running, filter is OK, but the injectors are not firing.

First do that thing with starting fluid. If it runs like that, then your spark is OK.

edit... now that I see your last post.
It DOES NOT need any fuel to have "reference" for the spark. Spark is fired based on sensors in the distributor, those sensors don't know or care whether there's any air or fuel in the cylinders.

 

The starting fluid causing the knock is of no concern?

 

It's not gonna run WELL with that stuff. But it shows that your spark is OK so you can concentrate your efforts on figuring out why it doesn't get fuel.

OTOH, I guess without hearing it firsthand, I don't know. Bad knocking might indicate your spark timing is strange. Or even your timing belt slipped a tooth or 2. Those seem unlikely, but you could remove the upper timing cover & check your camshaft timing.

A fuel pressure gauge would tell you if the pump & filter/screen are OK. Then that would leave injectors. Each injector has 2 wires, and one of those is the same color for all 4 injectors. That wire should be live (battery voltage) whenever the key is turned ON.

 

I'm headed to the barn to give it a spray. Let you know how it goes.

 

The vehicle did fire off, but wouldn't run without either the starter being engaged or the starting fluid being sprayed continuously into the intake with the peddle held to the floor.

 

You should remove the distributor cap and test for 12V to the blk/yel and the yel/blk wires with the key in the II position. Also check that the yel/grn wire has an open circuit to ground (valve cover bolt will give you a good ground).

I'm working off of a shop manual that covers several different models and the wire colors you listed are not identical to the 98-02 shop manual that I downloaded. Two of the wires should have 12V. The 3rd wire (the one controlled by the ECU, I think is the yel/grn). See if that one has voltage (maybe 10V) with the key in the II position.

The other test that I can suggest is to back-probe both the + and - connections to the coil (blk/yel and yel/blk?) with a needle. Hook your 12V test light across those pins. Try to start the car and see if the light flashes.

 

am i to understand that as long as you spray carb cleaner or starting fluid in the throttle body engine keeps running ?????
If so......it is NOT lack of spark but lack of fuel,.,, Hook up a fuel pressure gauge that will tell us a lot....make sure that you got power and ground at the fuel pump connector .....also,, what about the possibility that you got some bad gas???