Not going to work.

It is a pain (time) but you really need to do this at each wheel. I'd also suggest that you start by getting the old fluid out of the master cyl first. Fill it with new fluid then bleed from each wheel.

 

I see. That sucks. But, good news is, I found that I don't have to take the wheels off to bleed the brakes. I can reach around the inside of the tire and get at the bleeder screws. All should be fine and I won't have to jack up the whole car.

 

I haven't posted in a while. About a month ago I was able to get the brake fluid flushed without raising the vehicle. I also noticed that the Factory Service manual I 'thought' I bought is actually the supplement.

Anyone know where I can get a Factory Service manual (ebook or CD)?

Also, having trouble with CD's playing. Keep getting disc error. Any way to clean the head unit before replacing it?

 

Try "automanualsource" for an e-manual - $22 for a download (hope you have a good internet) or $27 for a CD shipped........good people IMO. I've been happy with the manuals I have gotten from them and had an issue with one and they were "on it" right away and made it right, even went above and beyond to get it taken care of

I "think" there are some "cd cleaners" you can buy???? Might post in the audio section for the issue and see if someone there has a better answer......I just know how to turn the **** to make it louder

 

I found out that the way the CD is made makes the difference. I made several CD's of the same songs in different formats. I used CD-R discs. What I found is that you have to have the error tracking on when the song is recorded, it has to be recorded at the best possible quality. Then, you might get to song 6 on the CD before problems start happening. After song six the songs cut out and you get a disc error.

Other formats received disc error on songs 1 - 4.

I did clean the head unit with a disc cleaning disc.

I'm also using windows software to make the discs. If I remember correctly I've made discs in the past that work fine on a FreeBSD (unix) machine.

 

There is a problem with my temperature controls. If the A/C runs a while full blast it stop cooling (fan still runs). Then, I have to push buttons until the A/C will star to cool again.

Could that be a symptom of needing to be recharded? When it cools the air is very cold.

 

When the ac stops working - can you still change "modes" - vent, floor, defrost, ect?

Also , these units have a "self test" - can't hurt to run the hvac unit thru the test.

Last, please add your car infor to your signature line so we don't have to go back and re-read to figure out the year and trim level of the car you are asking questions about.....Thanks

 

I can still use the modes and they switch.

Self Test? Is that in the Factory Service Manual? I bet it's in the user manual. If not, then please tell me how to perform this test. Thanks

 

I know it is in the service manual - there is also a "how to" in the "Common DIY Threads and Info" sticky at the top of this section.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...threads-40780/

 

I just went out and tried the procedure: switch to II, auto + off, one minute. After one minute, while holding the buttons, the display did not change. I tried two minutes, same thing. I tried pressing and holding Off and then auto. Nothing. Just auto button, nothing. I tried different switch position of those combinations and no changes in the display.

I'll try again later because it is pretty hot out right now and I had the door open. Not sure if that would affect it but I know it won't go into drive with the car door open (or something to that effect) so I'll try again with the door closed.

But, if there are no errors to report then what?