I'm 99% sure the system is just low on refrigerant, use to have to charge it every couple of seasons, now it's just not working at all- compressor won't kick on

So I have a can of R-12 over here, it's 14oz, and I figure it won't hurt to put in in there, right? I am sure the system was at least low

I know that overcharging it can destroy my compressor- but that is pretty unlikely just putting 14oz in a system known to be low, yeah?

Are cheap gauges pretty accurate or at all?

As far as I can see all I need is a can tap and a hose right?


Thanks

 

Yeah, go to the auto store and buy a gauge. They usually come with the cans but you can get them separate.

You need to located the low pressure ac valve in the engine bay and then fill the system as you would a tire.

Its the ac line with the cap with the "L" on it. If there is no cap then its the smaller(?) or usually most easily accessed valve.

Run the car with the ac blowing and fill it up until the desired level on the gauge.

 

I'd start with checking the ac pressure switch for continuity first - if open then you know the charge is low and not some other issue.

The old r-12 systems do not have different size valves - so please be sure you add (using a gauge) to the system thru the low side.

 

You may have trouble finding a guage to fit R12 connections. All I've seen recently are for r134a. I know fittings are available but auto parts store may not have them.

If you intend to keep car it might be time to rebuild the system and retrofit to R134a. Likely source for leaks are hoses, compressor shaft seal, and evap expansion valve oring connections (combination of aluminum to brass corrodes w/ time and leaks). A good resource for retrofitting and technical advice is autoacforum. com. Of course we'll try to help also.

good luck

 

Refrigerant charges need to be weighed in. You might get lucky a few times but in order for it to work properly it needs to be weighed. Might need to be leak checked as well. R-12 is not cheap! A/C issues on older cars are the worst. I decided to let a great 2000 Civic go because it was on its second compressor and it was failing as well couldnt spend half the cars value on a new system. Best of luck to you

 

I would like to add some oil while I am doing this, is that a good idea and does anyone know how to do that??? Also, I need to jumper some switch, I think, so I can get the compressor to run---- it must be running when I charge it, yeah?

Thanks!

 

Also, when I have some more cash I would like to retrofit the thing but I think I should probably get a better condenser- or at least put a fan on the one I have- right?? Since 134 is a smaller molecule I can imagine that it'd all just leak out of there right now anyway and I extremely don't think leak sealers are a good idea at all

 

In the past, you could buy cans of R12+lubricant (mineral oil). However, they are not readily available and you need a EPA AC Technicians license to purchase R12. I actually acquired one some years ago when I had R12 vehicle, but no longer have any R12 AC systems so I've misplaced license and info. Look online for help.

Ebay has r12 & lube. See following:

R12 Freon 1 Can with Leak Detector and Oil Lubricant | eBay

No mention of license requirements. Maybe that went away?

good luck

 

You need to find/repair leaks before retrofitting. Some AC shops will perform a pressurized leak test and ID leaks for you to repair. You could also use R134a to find leaks (retrofit low pressure fitting).

In my experience (1990 and 1994 Accords), you can expect leaks at expansion valve brass/aluminum fittings and compressor shaft seal.

If system has no charge, then pressure from refrigerant may be enough to charge small amount, close hi/lo pressure switch and enable compressor.

good luck

 

Got the compressor to run by jumping the relay and added some r-12, now the compressor kicks on by itself so I have more gas than I did have, but heat from the vents (circ/recirc works and no difference- adjusting heater valve manually, cable is broken, it's not just warm air it's HEAT) no matter what position heater valve is in.... never knew the valve to be bad, guess it is, parts house wants $35 for one!!!! Is it okay to bypass the stupid thing someway?