DIY Engine Valve Adjustment - Advisable?
#1
DIY Valve Adjustment - Advisable?
Hi guys,
I'm contemplating doing a valve adjustment on my '94 Accord LX. It's got >200k miles on it and I'm pretty sure the valves have never been adjusted before, so it might be about time (has that loud engine noise when idling).
I'm planning on doing this DIY simply because I don't feel like spending $200 at the shop. I've done basic DIY repairs such as replacing the air filter, spark plugs and plug wires myself, and I'm sufficiently comfortable with tools (worked as a technician in a past life). Moreover, I'm primarily interested in learning about cars, so if there's any car to "experiment" on, it might as well be my beater Honda.
Anyway, I wanted to get you guy's opinion as to whether or not I should go ahead with this DIY job given my background, as well as any tips/tricks/precautions that might be useful?
Thanks in advance!!
I'm contemplating doing a valve adjustment on my '94 Accord LX. It's got >200k miles on it and I'm pretty sure the valves have never been adjusted before, so it might be about time (has that loud engine noise when idling).
I'm planning on doing this DIY simply because I don't feel like spending $200 at the shop. I've done basic DIY repairs such as replacing the air filter, spark plugs and plug wires myself, and I'm sufficiently comfortable with tools (worked as a technician in a past life). Moreover, I'm primarily interested in learning about cars, so if there's any car to "experiment" on, it might as well be my beater Honda.
Anyway, I wanted to get you guy's opinion as to whether or not I should go ahead with this DIY job given my background, as well as any tips/tricks/precautions that might be useful?
Thanks in advance!!
Last edited by cukaracha; 07-12-2014 at 11:38 AM.
#2
Do it. It's easy. Instead of the "light drag" method, just use go/no go. If the specs are:
Then, for an intake valve, adjust it so the nine thousands feeler gauge will slide in easily and the eleven thousands will barely slide in. That way you're right at ten thousands nominal.
Also, I've found it easiest to just put each cylinder @ compression TDC and check that cylinder's valves.
When I adjusted valves on a 235K F22B2 - which probably had never been adjusted since it left the factory - I found four or five exhaust valves in the 0.003 to 0.004 range.
- 0.009" to .011" intake
- 0.011" to .013" exhaust
Then, for an intake valve, adjust it so the nine thousands feeler gauge will slide in easily and the eleven thousands will barely slide in. That way you're right at ten thousands nominal.
Also, I've found it easiest to just put each cylinder @ compression TDC and check that cylinder's valves.
When I adjusted valves on a 235K F22B2 - which probably had never been adjusted since it left the factory - I found four or five exhaust valves in the 0.003 to 0.004 range.
Last edited by Roader; 07-12-2014 at 11:47 AM. Reason: typo
#5
If valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals are old, this is a good time to replace. There are some orings in the valve train assy that I would not attempt unless there is oil leaking into the spark plug tubes.
good luck
good luck
#6
Thanks again for the replies, guys!! Cheers!!
#8
I like Felpro gaskets for aftermarket parts.
There are upper and lower seals on your LX. The upper seals are in the valve cover and easy to replace. Just note the direction the seals are installed, because the EX seals (different design then the LX/DX accord) are counter-intuitive when looking at the seal.
There is an ericthecarguy video on doing the lower seals. You will have to decide if you want to do the upper's only or do them all at the same time. He also talk about this in his video.
There are upper and lower seals on your LX. The upper seals are in the valve cover and easy to replace. Just note the direction the seals are installed, because the EX seals (different design then the LX/DX accord) are counter-intuitive when looking at the seal.
There is an ericthecarguy video on doing the lower seals. You will have to decide if you want to do the upper's only or do them all at the same time. He also talk about this in his video.
#9
Clean out the tubes as best you can, then run the engine a little. Then use a good flashlight to look down the tubes, and see if you can determine which seam the oil is coming from. If the oil is getting in from the lower seam (no oil above the lower seam), the O-rings are likely the problem.