Notes for future reference-
Torque settings
Oil Pan - 9 ft pounds
Intake manifold bolts 17 ft pounds
Valve cover - 7.2 ft pounds
Water pump - 9 ft pounds
Timing belt tensioner - 33 ft pounds
Access bolt to insert m6x100mm bolt for tensioner- 12 ft pounds
Flywheel bolts - 75.9 ft pounds
Torque converter to flywheel bolts - 19 ft pounds

 

If you don't have a pressure washer, a manual car wash bay will work just fine. I couldn't tell you how many engines I've power washed that way over the years, but it's been quite a few. I think your 95 injectors will be fine. The 97's that have been sitting over a year I would worry about. You can soak them in a peanut butter jar filled with diesel until you need them (soaking them will help bring them back to life). Good to hear you were thinking a head on getting the timing side done while it's out. That's the best time to do it. Sounds like the NAPA kit is the same as the Rock Auto kit, but for more money (about 100 bucks plus shipping). As long as your impact will torque the crank bolt to 150 ftlbs, you're good to go. As for the boot, I couldn't tell IF it's available, but you could look on Honda parts now.com, and see IF they offer it. If anybody does, it'll probably be Honda. Otherwise you'll have to improvise something. Without seeing it, I couldn't tell you what to use. Some body above me posted a suggestion though.
Good luck with your swap, as it sounds like you've got the bull by the horns now.

 

I am not sure if rtv is required on the oil pan gasket or not. I bought a felpro and cleaned the oil pan today. Was not able to finish the intake manifold due to another gasket from the water thermostat connection to the intake needing an oem gasket the local auto stores do not carry. The gasket is blue. Talked to Oreilly's later today and they said the blue ones are made to go on without any rtv due to the thickness and torqued down to factory specs. We'll see. Replacing it will be a huge PIA not on the engine stand if it leaks. I flipped the engine stand around to complete this one and it took like 10 minutes.

 

If I remember right, only the corners would need rtv. By that I mean where the tangs of the gasket go.However, if you look in the FSM, it tells you to use Honda bond for a gasket (grey rtv).

 

I've also heard that Permatex "Ultra-Grey" is the same as Honda-Bond.

 

good info. Thank you guys for the help on the gasket issue. I am going to put a dab in the corners before the bend of the gray permatex 'hondabond' equivalent.

 

I talked to a local guy who works at oreillys and who builds honda's in his spare time. He said the felpro technically should seal, but there is no reason not to put some black/grey rtv made for oil pans from permatex in between the inner portion of the gasket the whole way around. He said he has done this both ways and thinks the permatex will help long-term if the gasket starts to shrink in a few years due to expansion/contraction. He said he has also had people who had gaskets leak - the felpro blue colored gaskets even when torqued to factory specs, so it really depends on the make/model of the vehicle as to how well the felpro works according to him.

I got a new thermostat housing gasket from honda today where it meets up with the intake manifold. I'll post pictures when it's complete on the engine stand.

B

 

You can do it however you want. Put it in the corners of the crank end where the tabs go, or coat the entire gasket, or just go without the gasket and use the rtv. It's your call. Honda used Honda bond. Those blue gaskets aren't meant for being used with silicone, except where it's called out (usually the tabs near the crank).

 

Finally put the car back together and drove it tonight. It's leaking a bit of coolant either from the radiator cap or the hose to the overflow. I have basically rebuilt everything now but the upper and lower ball joints.

The main problem I am having is the accelerator is sticky. I replaced the accelerator cable thinking that was part of the problem, but this was not an issue before even when the car sat for almost a year.

If I put my foot under the gas pedal and pull back it will fully decelerate, otherwise it will accelerate and only slightly de-celerate. I might need to do some adjustment on the cruise control, etc. I have the same cable going to the transmission as I did before and did not mess with it. So far everything works as expected, car is not overheating. I found the root problem was the heater control valve last time ended up having the lower portion of the housing failing causing a coolant leak and this was the end of that engine with a blow head gasket, and the trans would slip once in a while anyways. I found out once I filled this one back up with coolant, and it was only a problem when the heater control valve was in the hot position. Fortunately it was found before I started the car.

Hoping to get the car smogged, aligned and back on the road. A/C works and literally everything has been gone through except the ball joints, all new hoses, axles, tie-rod ends, heater control valve, intake gasket, rear main seal, timing belt, water pump, alternator, power steering pump, accelerator cable, starter, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, new radiator, and this engine/trans only has 82k miles. So far it drives well, just need to fix the coolant leak and accelerator problem, also replaced all the engine mounts with napa brand.

Any suggestions on the sticky throttle would be appreciated, thats my main concern at this point. I did setup the distributor in about the same position as last time, it might be a bit off but everything sounds good.

 

Since you can get it to decelerate by lifting the pedal with your toe, I'd start by looking at the action of the pedal itself. Sticking hinges, pivot pins, stuff like that.

If it was the actual throttle body sticking, then you won't be able to un-stick it by lifting the pedal with your toe. Same thing if it was caused by the cruise control cable.

How about the accelerator cable? I know it's new, but if you disconnect both ends of the cable how does it feel? Moves smoothly? Excessive friction might mean the cable is kinked somewhere as it goes through the firewall or bends around in the engine compartment.