Door Lock Problem - 1997 Accord EX V6
#1
Door Lock Problem - 1997 Accord EX V6
Hello-
My RR door lock doesn't work. I have to lock and unlock it manually. When trying the power locks, I don't notice any weird buzzing or cycling. The other door locks work fine.
*Trying to keep this old Accord going and fixing some long standing quirks (DIY). Just finished with a master switch and window regulator/motor. Now I'd like to solve my door lock problem.
My RR door lock doesn't work. I have to lock and unlock it manually. When trying the power locks, I don't notice any weird buzzing or cycling. The other door locks work fine.
- door does not lock or unlock with driver door switch
- door does not lock or unlock with passenger door switch
- door does not lock or unlock with key in driver or passenger door outer lock cylinders
*Trying to keep this old Accord going and fixing some long standing quirks (DIY). Just finished with a master switch and window regulator/motor. Now I'd like to solve my door lock problem.
#2
The problem can be the switch, wiring, or the actuator.
You will have to remove the rear door panel. There are good ericthecarguy video on how to remove a door panel on youtube.
The actuator will have a 2-pin electrical connector that is behind the door panel. I can't find the wire colors. One wire will get 12V and the other wire will get ground when you push unlock. The 12V and ground will switch wires when you hit lock. Use a volt meter to verify you get 12V and ground to the actuator.
You will have to remove the rear door panel. There are good ericthecarguy video on how to remove a door panel on youtube.
The actuator will have a 2-pin electrical connector that is behind the door panel. I can't find the wire colors. One wire will get 12V and the other wire will get ground when you push unlock. The 12V and ground will switch wires when you hit lock. Use a volt meter to verify you get 12V and ground to the actuator.
#3
Thanks for the tip.
So, it can be the front driver lock switch (or the front passenger switch) even though those two switches work for all the other locks? I was thinking it would not be a switch since only one lock doesn't work with either switch.
If the actuator goes bad, then I wouldn't necessarily hear buzzing or cycling noise like every video I have seen indicates?
So, it can be the front driver lock switch (or the front passenger switch) even though those two switches work for all the other locks? I was thinking it would not be a switch since only one lock doesn't work with either switch.
If the actuator goes bad, then I wouldn't necessarily hear buzzing or cycling noise like every video I have seen indicates?
#4
Anything is possible with electrical components. Right now you need to diagnose the actual problem before thinking about replacing parts. You can't assume the problem is with the actuator, switch, wiring, or any component that works the door lock until you finish testing.
The test I suggested is to figure out if the wiring going to the actuator is getting voltage and ground. Your next step in diagnosing the actual problem depends on your test results.
The test I suggested is to figure out if the wiring going to the actuator is getting voltage and ground. Your next step in diagnosing the actual problem depends on your test results.
#5
Anything is possible with electrical components. Right now you need to diagnose the actual problem before thinking about replacing parts. You can't assume the problem is with the actuator, switch, wiring, or any component that works the door lock until you finish testing.
The test I suggested is to figure out if the wiring going to the actuator is getting voltage and ground. Your next step in diagnosing the actual problem depends on your test results.
The test I suggested is to figure out if the wiring going to the actuator is getting voltage and ground. Your next step in diagnosing the actual problem depends on your test results.
On my 97 Accord sedan, the RR door lock is sluggish, but I suspect that's more from not being used very often (the door itself). My 99 Accord sedan has the same problem.
#7
While you have the door panel off, use some spray silicone lube on the moving parts of the lock mechanism. It might be a mechanical problem while acting like an electrical problem too.
#8
I use a voltmeter and verified electricity was reaching.
I went to the junk yard and got a lock actuator from a '97 Honda Accord. The used one had a 4 pin instead of a two pin. The extra two wires (black) didn't connect to anything inside the actuator (only secured off on a plastic piece). I assume they were grounds.
Basically, I spliced the two pin connector onto the junk yard piece and everything works great now.
I went to the junk yard and got a lock actuator from a '97 Honda Accord. The used one had a 4 pin instead of a two pin. The extra two wires (black) didn't connect to anything inside the actuator (only secured off on a plastic piece). I assume they were grounds.
Basically, I spliced the two pin connector onto the junk yard piece and everything works great now.
#9
Different 1997 accord, different lock issue
I have another lock issue on a different 1997 honda.
From inside the car, all the power locks work fine using the driver's side master control and also using the front passenger lock switch.
From the outside:
From inside the car, all the power locks work fine using the driver's side master control and also using the front passenger lock switch.
From the outside:
- all doors will lock or unlock using the key in the drivers keyhole (outer lock cylinder).
- only the front passenger side locks and unlocks using the key in the passenger's keyhole (outer lock cylinder). The other three locks don't move in this situation.
#10
On my own 97, when using the key lock on the passenger side, you can either lock all dors, or unlock all doors. Same applies with my 99, and the 2000 Accord 4 doors I have here. If your car isn't doing this, then I don't know what is not working.