I would not insert a wire into the drain port. You might puncture the evaporator. I would try suction first, and then if that doesn't work, try to force water in to float the debris and then suck the injected water out. A shop vac is hand for this.

It will help to find or purchase a short piece of clear plastic tubing that fits the nipple on the evaporator drain nipple. Be very careful installing and removing hoses to avoid breaking the nipple off flush,...a bad day.

The cabin air filter was supposed to elimnate this problem by trapping dirt/dust in the filter. Looks like not always a solution.

good luck

 

I just got back from a service station and I used their air hose and vac in that order. Nothing came out the tube. Should I squirt a little water in the tube with a garden hose? Also, the windshield isn't oem. Its been replaced, I was thinking of spraying water on the windshield and check to see if water gets inside.

 

If you push water in and drain out easily, the drain is clear. Make sure the drain hose is clear. This may not be your problem.

There must be a leak somewhere. If windshield has been replaced it needs checking also. You should have a warranty on windshield installation.

good luck

 

The evap box seems clear, I sprayed inside the evap tube with the garden hose and the water came back out clean. I also hosed the the windshield to see if the water leaks insides, couldn't really tell. I was told I should check the sunroof also, haven't done that yet.

 

Sunroof is easily checked w/ a small pitcher of water poured into each corner. It should drain out through a tube that comes out near wheel well.

I've had a tube on a sunroof (not Accord) to become disconnected somehow causing a leak.

A car wash produces enough water loading to test everything, but could damage the ECU again.

I've also heard of leak to interior caused by cowling drain outlets becoming blocked. I've not heard of this on Accords but it may be possible.

good luck

 

Is it possible to remove the cowl without damaging the windshield? Should I just take the car to a windshield specialist and have them check for leaks? I'm going to pull the seats and carpet out this weekend and dry up the floor/carpet.

 

A windshield specialist may have a way to check for leaks; for instance using positive pressure in cabin w/ smoke introduced inside and look for smoke leaks to outside. You might be able to detect air leaks acoustically, but I don't know this to be possible.

I have found that a good blower or fan directed under the carpet (need to lift/remove trim pieces to allow carpet to be lifted) can dry the padding in place in perhaps 1 day, depending on drying conditions.

Best blower is a large "squirrel cage fan" that you can rent from rental tools place. Direct air flow under carpet and allow to blow for as long as necessary. Once dry the awful smell will disappear.

This works by wicking the moisture to the surface of the pad and carpet and drying.

good luck

 

Cowl drains are easy to test. Run hose on windshield and check below firewall for water draining immediatley. If water holds up, you have a problem.

good luck

 

So what you're saying is I should open the hood and spray the windshield with a garden hose from the side? After I should check to see if the water drains down the cowl? If it doesn't there's a clog?

Even after blowing into the evap tube with air/water + using a vac, there still seems to be a little dripping going on right above the ecu. I inserted a folded piece of disposable rag on top of the ecu and it slightly gets wet after using the AC for a few minutes. Can I remove the evap box without removing the dash? I would like to inspect the evap and make sure it's not damaged or clogged.

Also, I had a mechanic blow air into the sunroof drains, clean out the windshield cowl with air pressure, and blow air into the evap tube earlier today.

 

If the evaporator drain is not draining, you should hear some sloshing when you turn as the water level moves around. Also this is when leakage will occur as water sloshes above seam line of the evaporator housing.

When evaporator drain is working correctly, there is generally a steady small stream of condensate (in humid conditions) from the drain outlet. Observe whether this is the case, shortly after startup on a new day after allowing to drain overnight. If the drain is not effective, it may allow level to build where sloshing and condensation on outside of evaporator box become a problem.

Removal of evaporator should only be undertaken when you are absolutely convinced there is a blockage inside the evaporator housing. It is not a trivial job. I reviewed the procedure in Honda Shop Manual, and it's not as bad as I thought.

The evaporator is pulled from the housing, rather than removing evaporator inside the housing. There is an end closure (expansion valve cover held in place by 8 self-tapping scresws to the evaporator housing. This will likely be difficult to access/remove. I suggest examining the cover for any evidence of previous removal. If someone didn't reinstall the cover securely it might allow a leak.

You will absolutely need a shop manual to undertake this job. Suggest purchasing a download manual from automanualsource at ebay ($21.99). A great investment, IMO.

good luck