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Electrical Nightmare?

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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 12:43 AM
  #1  
kornfox's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Duluth, MN
Default Electrical Nightmare?

I own a 1997 Honda Accord LX Coupe (2.2 Non-Vtec, Automatic). Recently, my door locks and drivers side power window quit working. If memory serves me correctly, the power locks failed first and window failed within days. When I use the aftermarket clifford remote to arm my alarm, the door locks do not engage as they previously had. I havent noticed even a noise that would suggest power to the actuators. If I attempt to use the interior power lock switches, I see the same result. This is the case for either door..

Within days, my drivers side power window refused to function. Whenever I try to use the window switch, I hear no attempt at motion nor motor activity. The drivers side switches will not operate either window, however, the passenger window control still allows the passenger window to function. If I engage the window lock mechanism on the drivers side, it does lock out controls for the passenger window. In maybe an unrelated failure, I can only manually lock the drivers door if I pull on the interior door handle prior to pressing the lock.

The drivers side mirror controls still function perfectly. I have checked literally every fuse in the car; both under the hood and near the dead pedal. Anyone have any suggestions on what the culprit could be? It seems strange that these failures would occur simultaneously.
 
Old Jul 16, 2011 | 01:35 AM
  #2  
PAhonda's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 16,328
From: Houston, TX
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I would start by testing the driver's side switch. If you go to the common DIY threads on top of the gen tech help forum, there is a link for online shop manuals. The 94 shop manual is pretty much identical to you 97. You will need a volt meter. The tests for the power windows and the door lock switch is in chapter 23.

The door lock switch and window switch is easy to remove. Search D1svF3Pmolc on YouTube for a video on removing that door panel. The video covers the run channel replacement, which you may not need if you find a fault in the electronics.
 
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