Hello and thanks for reading this.

The car is a 1980 Accord sedan, automatic, carburated, 187,000 mi., maybe 287,000, not sure.

I just bought the car a few weeks ago, so this problem is inherited (and not disclosed.)

The engine starts fine and idles at first. I let it idle for about 5 min, during which the idle creeps up to around 2000 rpm. When I take off in drive it will not hold it's idle afterwards and dies. I can sometimes keep it from dying by quick, repeated light taps on the gas pedal; on a good day. After 10-15 minutes of driving it gradually gets better, and I'm not 100% confident that it won't die again, like it's just on the threshold.

This is combined with another problem. Because of the frequent dying I'm always restarting, sometimes the starter will turn over, no problem; sometimes nothing, or it's weak and slow. It seems like a low battery charge, but sometimes it kicks over immediately.

I recently changed oil/filter, fuel filter, air filter, cleaned plugs (which weren't bad at all). I used half a can on Seafoam in the oil and half in the gas.

This seems like a common problem for older cars, and I've experienced it before but don't know what to do.

Thanks,
Chris

 

I would make sure that the battery connections are clean and secure. Use a volt meter and check the voltage over the terminals. Then make sure that the voltage is the same from the + terminal to the - ground bolt, - term to the starter, etc.

This sounds like an ignition switch problem to me since you are having problems getting power to the starter and the car dies out once started. I'm not sure if an 80 Accord has two parts to the ignition switch. If you can, replace the electrical part of it.

Do you have a spare key that is less worn down than the one you typically use? I would try that as well.

 

Ok, thanks. I'll have to look up the ignition switch in my manual. What you said makes sense, from how the thing is acting. But, I don't understand how that would relate to the car dying once it has started.

I don't have another key. Moving the key around doesn't make anything happen.

C

 

could be carburator isues..
might be best off to have a tech set your carb properly , make sure choke works properly, fast idle comes on and off properly , idle circuit not dirty .. etc etc.

 

The ignition swtich in the start postion completes the circuit to the starter. When in the II (on) position, the ignition switch allows the ICM/coil to provide spark to the plugs. I can't remember exactly how the switch is involved in the circuits.

If the contacts inside are worn out enough and not making any contact, then holding the key in different positions will not make any difference. If you have a manual, then there are electrical tests for the ignition switch with a volt meter.

 

DesertHonda: Yes, I would like to do that anyway just for best performance. What would you expect to pay for that?

PAhonda: Which manual are you referring to? I have Haynes.

 

The Haynes manual should have some electrical tests for the ignition switch.

 

I worked on the car this weekend and made some progress, and something else happened.

I replaced the distributor cap and rotor. Visual inspection showed severe wear on the contact points. A new one worked great. Car fired up immediately and ran awesome; it had more power, didn't act like it would die, did everything that made it die before and it couldn't be coaxed. I thought that was it.

Then, while letting the car idle in the driveway ( getting my timing light ready ), it suddenly went from idle to about 2000 rpm for 5-10 seconds and then died. Car will not start at all, starter worked fine and engine turned over, but no firing of pistons.

I check for spark, good spark.

I check for fuel, no fuel.

I pull fuel line from carb, no fuel.

I pull fuel line from fuel pump (downstream), no fuel.

I remove fuel pump and wire it independently to the battery, yes fuel. ( all over my shirt )

It was suggested that the ignition switch was at fault for the earlier problem, and it may have been a part of it. The ignition switch sends electricity to the fuel pump. But there is a fuel cutoff relay ( which is a hell of a lot easier to replace ), I need to test it first before spending $200 on a ignition switch.

Does anybody know how to test this? Did I miss anything? Other opinions?

I couldn't find it in Haynes:Honda Accord CVCC 1976 thru 1983
If your book has a procedure, please post.

Thanks,
C

 

In our DIY section, there is a thread titiled online manuals.

The hondatech link has a pdf of an 86 Accord that you can download. I know that your accord is older, but the wiring and testing procedures should be similar. The pdf is nice, because you can click on Fuel and it will take you to the proper page.

Fuel relay is in the fuel section and the ignition switch is under electrical body.

 

Ok try this ....

remove the fuel pump relay located in the fuse box..
it should have 4 prongs,, where the relay goes in( fuse box) chk to see if you got voltage at the second from the top with key on,, if you get voltage , jump the top 2 slots together ,, if fuel pump now works you got a bad relay ..
If you had power at second slot and when you jumped it ,, it still did not work , you got wiring issues from relay to pump

if no power at second slot at all. you got a bad fuse or wiring issues from relay to ignit switch ,
Keep us posted