[&o] '96 Accord EX, Vtech 4 cyl, automatic, 142k. Put in a new starter Sunday morning, in the afternoon it sounds like we spun a bearing. Knocking pretty hard. Using synthetic oil, level fine. Question, should I just swap the engine for a different used one, or have this one rebuilt? Yes, money is a big issue. The cliffnotes version of a swap, just pull off all of the harness, lines etc., disconnect motor mounts, unbolt bellhousing, and pull? Reverse order to reinstall? Or is there a LOT more to it. Any issues we need to know about before we begin the swap? I had planned on putting new starter, water pump and cam belt on different engine before swap. Have seen prices around a $1k for an engine with 60k on. Another thing, would it be better and easier to do the trans right away with the engine? Trans presently working fine, but so was engine. Thank You

 

Well I don't think that changing your starter spun a bearing. Two way different problems and you don't hear about 4 cyl spin bearings very often, but it could happen. I would verify first that your started is shimmed correctly and not interfering with the flywheel. Also I would probably remove the starter and take it to your local parts store to test it. You want to make sure the solenoid isn'tsticking keeping the teeth of the starter engaged with the flywheel. Hey I know but have seen crazier things and if money is a issue it wouldn't hurt to rule it out. If you did spin a bearing it will be cheaper to rebuild the motor (that is if the bearing didn't do to much damage to the internals). Either way if money is a issue then pull the motor yourself, mechanics labor isn't cheap. When you do pull the motor expect to find things that need replacing (motor mounts, vac lines, etc.). Any how I hope I am not bumming you out to much but yanking a motor out of a car is no simple thing. Just make sure you take lots of photos as reference before you pull stuff, label everything (bolts in labeled zip lock baggies and connectors labeled with masking tap).

 

Thanks, I didn't think it had anything to do with the starter, but I didn't want to leave anything out just in case. I don't believe it is related to the starter. It sounded normal, but after about 30 miles when I accelerated there was a little knocking noise, sounded like a lifter. I wasn't too concerned, but when my daughters drove it, they called and said it was knocking very loud, and it is. They stopped it right away and I only ran it onto and off of the trailer. So the rebuild, the question always is, how far does one go? Since the head is off, have that all done? Grind the crank, do the rings, etc.,etc., etc. I had this with my tractor, I just opted to have a brand new engine installed for what turned out to be less costly than an implement dealer rebuild job. But, I plan on keeping that tractor the rest of my life, cars for the most part are disposable appliances. The rebuild, can that be done in place? i.e. just pull out the parts that need to be removed leaving the block in the car? Or is it better to pull the engine, which brings us back to the original question, is it pretty starightforward? I have done rear drivers many times before, but this is the first engine job on a front driver. Thanks

 

imjrk, I know what you are saying about how far do you go with it. If you choose to rebuild the motor you will have to pull it from the car. They will have to machine out the crank shaftbearing area due to thespun bearing damage and then they will have to insert larger then standard bearings. The only up side to the rebuild is that you will have pretty much a new motor. The down side is that you are right that it will cost about the same as a used motor. If you swap in a used 60k motor you will have to chang the timing belt, balance belt, and water pump as part of the standard maintenance. I would say that it all comes down to personal perference. But if you have pulled rear drive motors before you will probably find pulling a Honda motor easier but lots of wire connections.

 

We took a better look at it and we are now thinking the knocking is coming from the top of the engine, not the bottom. It sounds like it is coming from the valvetrain area over the second cylinder from the right as you are looking at the car from the front. We pulled the valve cover and could not determine anything from looking and listening at the valvetrain with the cover off. And yes, there is oil spraying out when we do this for a short time. So, is there a common problem with the Vtech engine that would cause this? Would it be to our benefit to just take the head off and have a valve job with new bearings installed? Thank You

 

Have decided to do an engine swap. Am finding many V-Tech engines for 98-02. Will these engines be a direct bolt in for my 96? What year V-Techs will fit my 96 Accord EX 2.3 V-Tech automatic? Thanks

 

I have read that the F23A1(engine from 98-02 LX & EX Accords)is 95% the same motor as the F22b1(engine from 96 EX). So I would imagine it should be pretty straightforward, but I do not know from experience. Hopefully some one who knows definitively will be able to give some advice. I am unsure about any possible ECU issues. I would not get an F23A4 though - also came insome 98-02 LX's & EX's. It's ULEV instead of LEV and I think the ecu is different.