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Extended oil use and consequences.

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  #11  
Old 10-20-2011, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by landlover
...when it gets past ten thousand miles are if oil is low the filler cap is very hard to get off because of the heat and
when changing the filter it is super hot and
I say this again it always comes back the oil still has active ingredient left and is performing within acceptable levels.

Come on, somebody has to have an opinion.
OK, here's my opinion: Get into a regular, completely typical oil / filter / change frequency program.
Live happily ever after to the motor's intended lifetime. Worry about something else.


These cars are designed for typical drivers / typical maintenance ... just saying.
 

Last edited by UhOh; 10-20-2011 at 01:41 AM.
  #12  
Old 10-20-2011, 08:47 AM
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Another post thought...High heat can warp your cylinder head and ruin other components as well...
 
  #13  
Old 10-20-2011, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by UhOh
OK, here's my opinion: Get into a regular, completely typical oil / filter / change frequency program.
Live happily ever after to the motor's intended lifetime. Worry about something else.


These cars are designed for typical drivers / typical maintenance ... just saying.



I agree. I especially agree if you follow the whole maintenance schedule...not just oil. I have frequently run into people who change their oil ever 3k, but have NEVER changed the coolant, tranny fluid, PS or brake fluid. In a high-mileage car, having your tranny go out is no better than having the motor go. Right?

And, coolant...don't get me started on that. Have you ever seen a car with 120k on the original coolant? Turns out to be a bad idea.

Roy
 
  #14  
Old 10-20-2011, 02:28 PM
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Default Synthetic Oil and heat problems?

I too use Mobil1 Extended formula on my 1994 Accord EX with 174,000 miles. Have used the M1 since day 1 when I bought the car new. Sometimes I think I am crazy for paying so much for the oil on such an old car but it runs well and the engine is clean internally.

About 1.5 years ago I decided to change the oil pan gasket myself because of a slow oil leak when it sat in the garage. However the leak I believe is actually coming from one of the shaft seals (transmission side). It is very small but my car is over 17 years old now and hopefully someday I will have a new car.

Only complaints on my Honda is the ABS, Front Rotors, and Rust from NY salt on roads. All could have been designed better! Next car?.......a 2012 Hyundai Sonata SE! The latest Honda Accords are boring from exterior to the interior dashboard/ instrument cluster!

Michael
 

Last edited by MichaelT1960; 10-20-2011 at 02:31 PM.
  #15  
Old 10-20-2011, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by UhOh
OK, here's my opinion: Get into a regular, completely typical oil / filter / change frequency program.
Live happily ever after to the motor's intended lifetime. Worry about something else.


These cars are designed for typical drivers / typical maintenance ... just saying.
Your right but see kept reading how todays motor oil lasts longer, so one day decided to try it and went about twelve thousand miles and sent a sample to be tested the results came back and it said it was all good. Why change it if it doesn't need it? The heat is what bothered me but the tests said it was good oil. It's possible it could still be doing an adequate job of dissipating heat. I don't know for sure. Changing oil and filter is no big deal but if it does not need to be done, why would I want to do it? I tried it and not sure of the results and that's why there is this post. Find it hard to believe that someone has not tried the same thing and does not want to contribute to this post. There has to be somebody out there that has tried the same thing. Just want feedback that can be used.
 

Last edited by landlover; 10-20-2011 at 10:40 PM.
  #16  
Old 10-21-2011, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by landlover
1] went about twelve thousand miles and sent a sample to be tested the results came back and it said it was all good. ...

2] Find it hard to believe that someone has not tried the same thing and does not want to contribute to this post.
There has to be somebody out there that has tried the same thing. Just want feedback that can be used.
Understand and applaud the second point. Look forward to other posts.


on the first, but your own experience / data said the oil was bad.
Screw the 3rd party tests, your own data says bad.
Fill cap overheat, oil filter overheat.

In my own oil 'qualitative car tests only,' no lab backup, says I can tell a change in car oil before it reaches 4000 miles.
So I drain oil before 4000 and use a fancy filter which I then change every 2nd oil drain.
I'm not trying to persuade you to follow; this is just what I do.
 
  #17  
Old 10-21-2011, 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by irhunter
Have you ever seen a car with 120k on the original coolant? Turns out to be a bad idea.

Roy
Yeah. Bet the heater core probably leaks onto cabin floor.
When I buy a used car the first thing I do is change all the fluids.
brake, tranny, radiator, engine oil. Ignore only the power steering fluid - my bad.
But, end of possible threadjack.


back to OP's motor oil and long change intervals.
 
  #18  
Old 10-21-2011, 08:22 AM
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I have been using Amsoil for 25 years on extended change intervals. I run all my vehicles to 225 to 250K before selling. They have all had zero problems.
Oil analysis is good and you can believe it.

However, keeping the oil clean is very important. I change the spin on filter every 4000 miles, and top up. I know it is not easy on the Accord to get to the filter. My Toyota and Subaru are very easy., but it is worth the effort.

I don't know how good Mobile 1 is, but I would strongly suggest a change to Amsoil. They have lot's of science and history behind them on this.

I don't sell Amsoil.
 
  #19  
Old 10-21-2011, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by wunderbra
I have been using Amsoil for 25 years on extended change intervals. I run all my vehicles to 225 to 250K before selling. They have all had zero problems.
Oil analysis is good and you can believe it.

However, keeping the oil clean is very important. I change the spin on filter every 4000 miles, and top up. I know it is not easy on the Accord to get to the filter. My Toyota and Subaru are very easy., but it is worth the effort.

I don't know how good Mobile 1 is, but I would strongly suggest a change to Amsoil. They have lot's of science and history behind them on this.

I don't sell Amsoil.
I appreciate your feedback on Amsoil but for everyones information and the whole reason of this post, what is your definition of "extended change intervals". I really do appreciate your reply but what I would like this post to be about is information pertaining to "extended oil change intervals" it's great if people are doing it but what are your observations on it. What, when, why. Again, thank you for the reply but what kind of car, what kind of oil, when do you change it and why do you change it at that interval. Has it gone longer before changing and did you notice anything? Information.

Have a good one and take care.
 

Last edited by landlover; 10-21-2011 at 04:38 PM.
  #20  
Old 10-21-2011, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by UhOh
Understand and applaud the second point. Look forward to other posts.


on the first, but your own experience / data said the oil was bad.
Screw the 3rd party tests, your own data says bad.
Fill cap overheat, oil filter overheat.

In my own oil 'qualitative car tests only,' no lab backup, says I can tell a change in car oil before it reaches 4000 miles.
So I drain oil before 4000 and use a fancy filter which I then change every 2nd oil drain.
I'm not trying to persuade you to follow; this is just what I do.
What changes at four thousand miles take place to change the oil?

On this 95 Accord 2.2 four cylinder at about ten thousand miles the car takes a split second longer to start which I attribute to thicker oil "viscosity" but all the tests that come back say it's within acceptable limits.
 


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