Barring an unlikely bad wire between the pump and the main relay, the next step is checking the main relay inputs, p. 11-96 in the FSM. You've got voltage testing down pat; when it says to check for continuity, set the meter to the lowest Ω setting. Touching the leads together should give zero or at the most a few ohms. That's what you should be seeing when checking for continuity in the manual's troubleshooting steps.

Make sure the ground on the intake manifold is clean and tight.

 

I would apply battery power to the fuel pump, to confirm that it works or not while you're in the area.

 

Yeah, I wondered about doing that. . .how would one do that? Obviously I've got the ground right there, but I've got this three - pronged harness for the red (hot). Suggestions anyone?

 

Better to read the wiring diagram yourself than trust someone else. Postive lead should be Blk/yel to fuel pump.

good luck

 

the shop manual says no fuel problem is caused by: injector resistor, fuel filter, fuel pump, or main relay. since you don't hear the pump and your 2 main relays a wacky double check your fuel pump install/main relay at the same time here:

PDF

if you need the full shop manual get it from hondahookup.com

 

Alright ya'll, now I'm just full blown confused. Here's what's gone down today. You tell me what your opinion is.

I returned back to the fuel pump, making sure I did the test properly. I didn't have a helper with me at first, so I decided to jump the wires like the shop manual advised. I took OUT the main fuel relay and jumped two wires -- black/yellow and red/white. Then I went back and tested: black to body ground at the fuel pump and red to black/yellow at the fuel pump -- boom, 11 - ish volts reading with the key turned on. Incidentally, I noticed that with the fuel relay removed and these wires jumped, I got a steady on CEL and a blinking D4 light.

Okay, so now I'm thinking bad fuel pump. So I go back, put the fuel relay back IN (removing the jumper wires, of course). This is a NEW fuel relay. Got my helper out there, told them to turn the key to "II" (on). Got the same, steady - on CEL that I've always had and the blinking D4. Note that this is the same as I got with the wires jumped. In addition, with the same testing procedure as above at the fuel pump -- got NOTHING. Maybe 0.4 volts. I figured while I was back there I'd test the other two leads coming into the wire harness. On one of them I got 11 - ish volts and at the other I got 6 - ish. But again, note, whereas with the jumped wires I got 11 - ish volts at the Black/Yellow, with the MFR in place and a helper, I got NONE.

So now I got no idea. Any ideas?? I'll take any suggestion.

Someone suggested I test the fuel pump while I'm back there. What do I do, just run two wires directly from the battery to the wire harness for the fuel pump???

Thanks in advance.

 

did the fuel pump make noise when you jumped the Main relay and turned the ignition on?

 

Here is the online manual thread where you can go to honda-tech site and get a 94 shop manual:

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-manuals-4597/

Here is my writeup on retrieving codes:

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...l-codes-35962/

You still haven't told us what code(s) if any flashed from either the check engine light or the D4 light.

I would check for voltage at the proper pins for the main relay. See page 11-96.

 

To clarify, no noise from the pump under either condition, however, keep in mind that with the jumped test and the non jumped, I was testing the voltage at the connection harness in the trunk -- the harness was disconnected from the pump anyway. I haven't attempted to directly jump the pump itself. . .don't know how, I am ashamed to say. Suggestions?

 

By the way, PA, that's where I was going to go next...I had decided to return back to the pump to make sure I had done the test correctly.