Hey guys,

I got a few issues on my honda accord. It's a 2000 accord 4 cylinder sedan and it's got 211,000 miles on it and counting. A few months back (nearly a year now) I was stupid enough to put a cold air intake or what I thought was a cold air intake. I didn't put it on, I had some mechanic off craigslist buy it and put it on for me, turned out to be a huge scam but whatever. Anyway, I've this spectre, I think, cold air intake which really looks like a SRI. I don't think it's on right because I keep hearing a rattling noise when the engine is idling in Drive. Also, these days it keeps making a loud *** humming noise at speeds over 30 mph (gets louder when faster) and its annoying. Its like a humm that's not loud yet it gets into your ear drums loudly. Hard to explain. Any suggestions on that?? I am thinking either put on a new CAI with a real brand name or go back to stock airbox (only problem where do I buy a stock airbox now??). The amount I drive the car, gas mileage is excessively important to me and so is the car lasting, don't need any damage.

Second issue, recently had my control arms replaced along with rear drum brakes at the honda dealership because apparently my control arms were on the verge of breaking. That was two months ago. They did a wheel alignment but ever since that day, there is a ton of vibration in the steering wheel, especially when braking, its really bad. Also, car pulls noticeably to the left on the highway. Dealership guys are telling me its my tires, which are shot (56,000 miles on cheap bridgestone potenzas). But if it's my tires, why weren't any of those symptoms so obvious five thousand miles ago when the tires were still shot prior to the dealership doing the wheel alignment??

Oh and as a side note the SRS light has been on since that wheel alignment (control arms changed, new drum brakes etc service), i doubt they're related but who knows. Don't know why it popped on but I'm not paying the dealership 140 for a diagnostic. That's stupid and I am poor.

Any answers would be greatly appreciated, I need this car to last. I haven't changed the tires due to lack of funds at the moment. So, even when it comes to the intake, I prefer good bang for the buck solutions.

Thanks guys..

 

Sounds like you have multiple issues,going to be hard to answer/get to all of them at once....and most of this is going to be things to inspect/test/ect...

1) "Rattle" only at idle and in gear. Inspect mounts, valve adjustment???
2) "Hum" at 30 mph and higher....sounds more like a wheel bearing, or could be the tires (3b). have you rotated them to see if the noise moves...and for 3b to see if the "pull on the hwy" changes.
3A) Vibration when driving, add brakes and worse. Could be the rotors are wrapped
3B) One possible given already....
4) SRS light. Anytime work is done on the car and you pick it up and a "light" or some other issue (not there before the work) happens right away.....don't even leave the parking lot or turn around a go back ASAP and report the issue. I think/it has been a bit (??) there is a tsb or recall about the pass side seat belt sensor.....or some seat belt sensor.

 

Alright so I had my oil change and whatever else done at the dealership. This time the dealership said my suspension links are about to break. it's always something. They charged me 320 dollars for new suspension links, oil change, and a damn tire rotation. So, the dealership tells me the rattle is from the aftermarket air filter I have in the car, which apparently they won't touch because it's aftermarket. I bet it would take them a second to fix it and I don't know how to.

Last time I had my service done before this one at the dealership, they made me change my drums because 200000 plus miles on the original ones apparently made them rust to ****, which was visible. When I told them about the excessive vibration, this time they again changed my drums telling me something "maybe" wrong with those drums. New brakes again, this time at no cost. And now there's no vibration.

As far as the humming noise, it's still there, seems a little less and it seems to have shifted to the back end now. Don't know how it managed that, may have something to do with the tire rotation. And yeah the tires are shot at this point, its bridgestone potenzas getting close to 60k miles on manhattan, brooklyn etc roads on them.

Btw so how do I fix this rattle from the intake?? and any suggestions on tires good for like 80k miles for the 00 accord?? they need to be lighter than these damn bridgestones at 24 pounds and less noisy too.. I still can't afford them but i'll make them a priority as soon as i make 500.

sorry for the long *** response.. my car has a whole host of problems.. oh and once i get through all this wheel well rust is the next question..

 

Not good with aftermarket intakes, it would be one of those things you just got to look at and inspect the connections, fit, ect looking for anything loose or out of place.

Since the "hum" got a little less and moved (to the back now), pretty sure it is the tire...the balance/rotation did this.

 

Well thanks for the responses man. I'll keep you updated on what happens when I get a chance to look over the intake and change the tires. Appreciate you taking the time to respond.

 

Suggest going to car-part.com and searching for (air tube resonator). Find one at a salvage yard near your zip and go by to inspect the part. I'll bet you can get all you need for < $75. You will need air filter housing, resonator assy, and intake duct. Get all connected vacuum lines as well.

PS, I think your Honda dealer is hosing you. Look for a good independent Honda-Acura shop.

good luck

 

thanks man. I think I am going to have to switch up to another dealership and see if I continue to get hosed. I feel like everyone around here is like that. Anyway, I looked up the air tube resonator through the website you suggested, came up with a few fairly close to my house. There's one from a 1998 honda accord 4 cyl that says air box assembly in its description. I am wondering if the 1998 airbox will fit fine in the 2000 car?? It should, right?? since it's a 98-02 model.

 

Take your old part w/ you and compare making sure all ports, etc match up.

good luck

 

I went to an online Honda Dealer (majestic) and looked up the part numbers for a 98 4dr EX 4 cyl and the same for a '00. The part number was the same so you should be fine....you can double check me by doing the same just to be sure

17201-PAA-000 - was the pn I saw for both.

 

thanks a lot guys. That was really helpful. I'll probably have questions about how to install the airbox as soon as I go pick it up from the junkyard or whatever that place is.

not to frustrate you guys further but on a side note, i was just looking at a friend's subaru's (I know this is a honda accord forum) HIDs which keep randomly going on and off with the seatwarmers on. Anyway, I opened up the hood to check the wiring and now it just won't close all the way. I mean it locks but not all the way, can't figure out what the hell I did. I feel like I broke it. Any suggestions?? I'm praying it's a simple fix, I can't afford 100 dollars or so for a broken latch or cable to be fixed. I literally just opened it and won't close now.