I would like to start by apologizing if this post is in anyway not up to standard. This is my first post and I'm brand new to this site as I am the newest member of the Accord family. I want to thank all of you for having such a well organized forum and I would like to admit that after being a Ford guy my whole life, I purchased a 1998 Accord EX 2.3L Automatic Transmission. I will attempt to make this post as detailed as possible in order to not waste any of your time. Please point me toward old threads if this has been answered in the past. THANK YOU SO MUCH!

Here is my situation and I hope ya'll may have some useful input.

I bought the Accord from a guy in town and all he had advertised to me was the possible problem with a steering knuckle (which I believe may be a U-joint or ball joint problem: reason for belief is that the steering wheel, while driving straight down the road is pointed up to the 11 and even 10 o'clock position, and the drivers front wheel is canted outward (top of tire away from body of accord).........

My biggest issue is that upon installing a new cool air intake, I still have a flashing D4 Light and the trans seems to be draggin its feet. I have manually shift down to first, into second and creep through 3rd to get up to 45mph. As my best friend put it, I should not be shifting and automatic.
After adding coolant, oil, and yes, transmission fluid, the problem still persists. NOTE: Reverse seems to work just fine.

I'm perplexed and not sure where to turn. The tube for the intake (which is borrowed off a 1990) seems to have an aluminum tube sticking out of the top, just short of the throttle body, yet I cannot seem to find a wire to to go it, as I did find a smaller-tube to connect the the intake tube roughly six inches down the intake-tube toward the cone shaped air filter.

If the problem was not the air intake (as the seller suggested to me) and at this point, is not transmission fluid, what should my next step be?

All input is welcome.

Very Respectfully,

Matthew

 

The D4 light flashing means the engine computer detected a transmission problem. Stop by a parts store like autozone and have them read the codes. Post the code on here. It will start with the letter P and have 4 numbers, like P1234.

I am not sure what is going on with your suspension. It could be a bent control arm or bad bushing. A quick test is to put the front of the car on jackstands, turn the steering wheel until it locks, then try to push/pull the tire in the 12/6 and the 3/9 o'clock positions. You should have very little movement of the tire. Also look for bent or loose control arms?

 

Ok, so now that the car is registered, insured and plated, I drove it (slowly) to advanced auto in town. The code that came back was a P1773 code. "Automatic Transaxle Malfunction" I have been told it may be the dual selenoids on top of the transmission, but that it could also be the transmission fluid level (which I checked, and ruled out) or the transmission filter....etc etc. I'm hoping someone else has had this issue.

More specifically, Can anyone tell me how to "complete the circuit" or "Jump the 2 and 3 wire connectors to get a more specific code....I've read posts where they say to do this on the passenger side, below the glove box, yet the ODB 2 computer hooked up on the driver side by the hood latch. This is my first Honda so I apologize if i'm rambling, but its starting to frustrate me.

All the Best,

Matthew

 

I believe OBD code P1773 for the Honda is the A/T Clutch Pressure Solenoid Valve B Circuit. Which I believe is #11 in this image.

 

Thats what I've read with the P codes....Is there any more specific diagnosis? I really don't want to throw a 200 dollar part at it, if its not going to fix the issue.

 

If you have a volt meter, unplug the electrical connector from that valve and measure the resistance across the pins. If it is not about 5 ohms, then replace.

Also inspect the electrical connector for damage, corroded pins, and clean any dirt/oil out of there.

 

You may need a Honda Accord Shop Manual to run this to ground. P1773 relates to AT Trans Clutch Solenoid B, however I could not find any info to confirm if it's the hydraulic or electrical circuit.

If it's electrical, then replacing solenoid may fix the problem. You need to check the resistance of the B solenoid. It should probably be in the range 12-25 ohms if good, or short/open if bad. If you find an out-of-range ohms, then replacement is indicated. It's possible, but less likely that wiring or connector damage is causing this problem; again on the clutch solenoid B circuit. You check this by measuring resistance from ECU connector w/ the solenoid B wire.

You may be able to purchase a damaged transmission for parts cheaper than the new unit, but may be difficult. I doubt you can find the solenoid only as a used part. So you want to be sure part is bad before replacing, hence the shop manual.

good luck

 

Where exactly is the B Selenoid in reference to the Transmission Fluid dipstick? I'm looking at this chart, trying to get my bearings on it, but I can't quite figure out where to be looking. I'm sorry for asking ridiculous questions, but I'm really not very mechanical. Learning as I go so to speak...

 

I have a set of shift selenoids I can sell you fairly cheap if you need to replace them. Also here is a link for codes and such...


how to check codes - https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ad.php?t=35962

codes - https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ad.php?t=33940

 

I am not very familiar with the AT setup.

When looking at the transmission from the front bumper of the car, the solenoid B valve will be below and to the right of the dipstick. The connector will only have two wires going to it. From the shop manual it looks like one of the two wires going to the connector is orange, the other one is green.