Front Brake pad replacement
 

I got the front pads off and noticed they have a step in the wear surface. Like maybe my rotors are the wrong size? The discs are about 10 3/8" (260mm) in daimeter. Does this sound normal?
Also, how do I know what the minimum thickness is for the rotor? It's stamped in the rortor, but I can't see it without pulling the disc off.

RE: Front Brake pad replacement
 

Do you have replacement pads yet? perhaps someone put in the wrong pads the last time? Also, if it's in your signature I didn't see it but what year/model do you have?

RE: Front Brake pad replacement
 

Yes, I got the pads from Honda last week, they look just like what's on the car. This is very strange (the step in the worn pad), I do know the car was front-end collision repaired, but it runs great and my wife loves it.
The car is a 1994 Honda EX wagon with auto trans (why isn't my signature showing up, anyone?).
The rotors are 23-24mm thick

RE: Front Brake pad replacement
 

minimum tickness is 21 mm so you should have enought to resurface them........Use a shop that has an on car machine to resurface them... rotors will be much smoother and it wont cost you more to remove them out of the car

RE: Front Brake pad replacement
 

good advice.
What's with the "step" in the worn pad, are they supposed to be like that? I think my car has the incorrect rotor. Anyone have the rotor diameter for a 94 EX wagon?
TIA

RE: Front Brake pad replacement
 

Got a picture?

Big Problem - Front Brake pad replacement
 

I must have the wrong rotors (and hub bearing?)[&o] Left side pads are worn unequal (2nd or outer worn to backing, reason for brake work) - bent shim/clips- new brake hardware kit should fix this.

[IMG]local://upfiles/6579/FF3F864E318140B08568099904B05F1A.jpg[/IMG]

RE: Big Problem - Front Brake pad replacement
 

Wagons and sedans have different part numbers for both pads and rotors, is it possible that the knuckles have been replaced and the wrong rotors are on your wagon?
You should look at sedan pads and wagon pads to see the difference.
As far as the uneven brake pad wear, be sure to clean and lube the slider pins [high temp grease]

RE: Big Problem - Front Brake pad replacement
 

Yes, make sure you grease the slider pins. I just changed the pads on my dads Dodge Dakota and noticed only the insides pads were worn to the metal because the slider pins were dry.

RE: Big Problem - Front Brake pad replacement
 

O.K., I put the pads on. They are too big.
I'm looking at old receipts from when the collision repair was done (by others). It looks like they purchased a Spindle/Knuckle, Rotor(s) and Caliper(s). I guess my question is, would the correct pads for the wagon fit in the caliper for a sedan? Can I replace just the rotors to bring this car up to snuff?
Possibly I need to get part nos. for the sedan and the wagon to see which are different. Part Nos. for - caliper - pads (they are different) and rotors. If the rotors are different, do I need new Knuckles?
Sorry for such a cryptic post, this ones tough.

RE: Big Problem - Front Brake pad replacement
 

Get a ruler & start measuring everything. Is it possible you have a knuckle, hub, rotor,& caliper from a sedan on only ONE SIDE?? That would be bizarre...

Or maybe mismatched knuckes, but thecalipers & rotors are all sedan? A sedan caliper bolted to a wagon knuckle might position the caliper too far away from center. That way the rotor doesn't extend all the way into the caliper.

RE: Big Problem - Front Brake pad replacement
 

Go ceramic!

RE: Big Problem - Front Brake pad replacement
 

well I've done some checking and I believe I need to replace the disc rotors ony. Any reason I shouldn't use a Durlast from AutoZone, $17 each?

RE: Big Problem - Front Brake pad replacement
 

you can use them but do not be surprised if they are not very ( DURA) BLE and ( LAST ) very long before they get warped ..,, I would spend a few more bucks and at least get a set of BREMBOs.

RE: Big Problem - Front Brake pad replacement
 

I will

update - broken bearing
 

well, I took off the rotors and the right side (front) bearing came apart. Any chance I can get this piece of broken bearing race off my hub?

[IMG]local://upfiles/6579/2AE12E67A11646878CE6AB0982EFB09F.jpg[/IMG]

RE: update - broken bearing
 

I noticed that where the bearing seperated, there is a machined lap. Are these things meant to be cleaned, rebuilt and replaced? I'm pretty sure the other side was a sealed unit (it's back on the car w/the new rotor).

RE: update - broken bearing
 

No, I don't think they're meant to be cleaned & reassembled.

RE: update - broken bearing
 

finally got the brakes right, right sized rotors etc. Removing the rotors by instructions found in search resulted in useless bearings. To be expected.
I think I might want to bleed the system. Anyone know if a Motive power brake bleeder will do the ABS modulator without turning on the motor? or should I follow the instructions in my cheap haynes/Chiltons manual, then bleed the wheels with the power bleeder? thanks in advance

RE: update - broken bearing
 

Motive works nice for the main brakes. Do that first, then bleed the ABS. The ABS can pressurize itself, so you don't need the Motive bleeder.

Get a hose that fits good on the ABS bleeder & runs into a bottle. Keep it under control & open the bleeder slowly, not very far at all. If the hose pops off, there's enough pressure to cut your skin.

Open ABS bleeder only barely enough to flow. You'll only get a couple ml. Close it as soon as it the flow stops.

Make sure the ABS reservoir is full. Start the engine & let the ABS modulator pump up. (I don't think the pump will run unless the engine actually starts?)

Bleed some more fluid out. Keep repeating until all air bubbles are gone. DON'T let the reservoir get empty or you'll have to start over.