Read through this site. It has all of the information that you need. The MFR is kind of buried behind the steering column.

http://techauto.te.funpic.org/mainrelaydefine.php

Try to repair the solder joints. Sometimes other parts of the MFR fail, so the solder might not fix your problem.

I still think that you should first check the codes on the ECU when you get a chance. Even though the check engine light turned off, the codes are still stored in the computer. That site I linked on my first post will get your ECU codes. It takes maybe 5 minutes to check. It might indicate that something else is the root cause of your problem.

 

Yes, check the codes. I get sidetracked & don't really mean for you to ignore suggestions from earlier posts.

 

Well, Since I couldn't get the code (initially) I replaced the relay. When the car started, the CEL came back on. I then checked the code and it was a "6" with the D4 flashing VERY slowly. Below is "6"

6 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

Where is this sensor and does anyone know what the slow flashing D4 is?

 

That sensor is on the cylinder head below the distributor. It is has two wires going to it.

This information is based on my 95 accord, so your wire colors may be different.

The two wire colors going to the ECT sensor, are grn/blu and red/wht. Check that the connection is clean inside and secure. You said the light is intermittent.

The resistance across the two pins of the sensor should be 200-400 ohms when the engine is completely warm.

When the key is turned to the on position, the voltage across those two pins of the electrical connector should be 5V.

 

The D4 light should flash a code just like the check engine light.

TCUs have a different set of codes, so post the code on here.

BTW. Was the code 6 from the check engine light?

 

Thanks PA. I checked the sensor and got zero ohms across it. I then pulled it out and checked again to make sure that I was directly on the pins, I was. I also tried (as my Haynes manual says, to put the sensor in hot water to see if it changes ohm readings. It still stayed at zero ohms. I also checked my meter across various other pieces of metal where it would give me resistance numbers so I knew it was on and operating....

I think I may have found my problem.. I hate I bought the main relay but at least I'll never have to replace it again! Plus, I didn't dive in and replace the Fuel pump either. I have the engine code to back me up on this and my ohm meter. This should fix it.

 

Well, it looks like the coolant temperature sensor was causing the problems.... Who would have thought?

 

am working on a 92 acura with no fuel and i changed out the main relay and it didnt work ....the funny thing is that sometimes if u let it sit for a day or 2 it will pump gas but as soon as u try and start it it wont pump and u spay starting fuild it runs on that thats it ......i thurt the dealer told me one time there is a nother relay for the pump would it be the relay that is in front of the main relay ? hmmmm

 

Welcome 4322558. Your story is kinda different, so it would be better if you start your own thread.