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go, no go for valve lash adjustment

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  #1  
Old 10-01-2011, 11:34 AM
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Default go, no go for valve lash adjustment

Hi, have never used a feeler gauge and keep reading slight drag for valve lash adjustment. If for example the exhaust is .30 and .29 is put in there and there is no resistance at all, after that .31 is put in there and it has to be forced in there. Would this work, would a difference of only .01 make much of a difference? Trying to get a feel for how this is done, someone used paper as an example but a somewhat tight grip on paper can be used before it is ripped. Looking for something concrete but have a feeling it doesn't exist. Don't want to damage the top half of the motor!
 
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Old 10-01-2011, 11:41 AM
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in the automotive world .0001" could determine whether a bearing is bad or not


anyways when adjusting valve lash, you want slight drag. if you cant fit the gauge in then loosen it, if that is the spec it is supposed to be

if it goes in with no resistance, tighten it until you feel a slight drag, but not too much to where to have to jerk it out.


hope that helps. let me know if you need a more detailed description
 
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Old 10-01-2011, 12:40 PM
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Tek has some great advise. To help you feel a little better, too loose and you'll have nosie. Too tight and valves begin to burn (damage)....so if you have to error, I'd error on the loose side.

What year and engine is this?
 
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Old 10-01-2011, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by landlover
...would a difference of only .01 make much of a difference? ...Don't want to damage the top half of the motor!
No, because the spec is 0.28mm to 0.32mm; you have 0.04mm to play with. It doesn't have to be perfect. You could use 0.28/0.32 as a go/no-go, putting it very close to nominal.
 
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Old 10-01-2011, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by poorman212
Tek has some great advise. To help you feel a little better, too loose and you'll have nosie. Too tight and valves begin to burn (damage)....so if you have to error, I'd error on the loose side.

What year and engine is this?
95, 4 cylinder, 2.2 Vtec

Thanks, just nervous been a while since anything has been done except oil changes and have never had a valve cover off.

BTW- Where can reliable numbers for the valves be found, can't find a sticker on the car stating the acceptable gap.
 
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Old 10-01-2011, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Roader
No, because the spec is 0.28mm to 0.32mm; you have 0.04mm to play with. It doesn't have to be perfect. You could use 0.28/0.32 as a go/no-go, putting it very close to nominal.
Are you just throwing those numbers out? From what can be understood the exhaust is bigger than intake? Seen a sticker on you-tube and think it was just one number for exhaust and one for intake is that right or does it vary like you have?
 
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Old 10-01-2011, 03:49 PM
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here u go
 
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Old 10-01-2011, 03:55 PM
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as you can see intake is .26mm and exhaust is .30mm COLD + or - .02mm your play can be .02mm not .04mm
 
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Old 10-01-2011, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Tek310
as you can see intake is .26mm and exhaust is .30mm COLD + or - .02mm your play can be .02mm not .04mm
Thanks for the numbers.

Before I start am new to this. Is this what they are saying basically, intake is supposed to be set to .26 but because slight drag is hard to define, it has to be between .24 and .28? Is this right? Probably making this harder than it needs to be but don't want to mess the top half of this motor up.
 
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Old 10-01-2011, 04:54 PM
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Yes, same with the exhaust. As stated, your "drag" vs mine or Tek's (or anyone else) can be different..so there is the room to play......24 to .28mm for intake, .28 to .32 for exhaust is fine.
Also, angled feeler gauges will make this a lot easier.
EDIT:Again, if you have to error, error on the "loose" larger side.....noise is better than burnt valves.
 

Last edited by poorman212; 10-01-2011 at 05:02 PM.


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