I used the same distributor with a H22a4 I used to have in the car.

But I swapped to the distributor that came with the engine and the same problem persists.

When you pull the plugs after it tries to start they are fouled up and soaked in fuel.

All the symptoms say the timing is off, but all the marks are lined up.

 

It sounds like it is not getting spark to me with fuel fouled plugs.

Does this have an internal or external coil?

How did you check the spark? Did you use a timing light?

If you pull the plugs and turn the engine over using a wrench on the crank bolt, does the distributor rotor turn too?

 

It is internal coil.

I pulled the plug and wire and set it on the manifold and cranked it to check for spark.

I haven't done that to check to see if the distributor turns, but I have taken the cap off several times and the rotor has been pointing different directions.

Tomorrow I will take the timing covers off again and check it for the 7th or 8th time. Maybe I will take some pics to post just to make sure I'm not insane.

 

With your spark test, you may see spark at atmospheric pressure, but under compression, you may not be getting spark. A timing light will verify spark under engine compression.

The wet plugs suggest this is a spark problem.

It could be possible that you skipped a ground wire or maybe it is loose/corroded. What wire harness are you using?

I would check for codes to be make sure this isn't a sensor problem.

 

I am using the stock Accord harness.

I have 2 ECUs, a chipped p28 and a stock 92-95 prelude P13. The P28 Does not throw any codes. Once I got the P13 to throw a code 15 for ignition output signal.

 

I checked over all the grounds, and even added more and it didn't seem to make a difference.

I can get it running now by giving it some throttle while cranking but it sounds absolutely awful. It just seems like the coil is firing at the wrong time.


Here are some pictures of my timing just to make sure its all right.

Cam arrows up and sides flush with cylinder head






Crank pulley up(it matches with the mark under there just didnt feel like taking the timing cover off again)





Cylinder 1 at TDC



Rotor at #1 cylinder position

 

It looks like you are in time as long as the crank was at TDC, so it can't be a timing problem.

In that last picture, you have a temperature switch unplugged for the radiator fans. Also, it looks like the distributor electrical connector on the far left in that pic is not plugged in completely.

I think that the map sensor and the TPS sensor have the same electrical connector. I wonder if you have them switched? The wire colors for the map sensor are yel/wht, grn/wht, and wht/yel. TPS has a grn/blu, red/blk, and yel/blu

 

The coolant temp sensor situation is an odd one. The F20b only had one on the thermostat housing and this has one there and one in that picture. If I plug in the one in the picture the fans stay on all the time. If I only have the thermostat housing one plugged in the fans work fine.

I'll check that distributor plug.

I checked the map/tps sensor and they are correct. I've also tried starting it without those plugged in and without the IACV plugged in.

 

I am just trying to give suggestions, because it sounds like this should start.

How about the vacuum lines?

Specifically, the EGR valve (if the H22 has one). There should be no vacuum on that valve when the engine is idling. If vacuum is applied, then the car is supposed to stall out. What if you remove and plug the vacuum hose leading to the EGR valve?

 

I deleted the EGR valve.

To me it just seems like the plugs are firing at the wrong time. The only thing I can think of that would cause this to happen is the cylinder position sensor being wrong. But it didnt throw a code for that.

You would'nt happen to know what the voltage for the cylinder position sensor is supposed to be?