hairline crack in distributor part
 

I noticed a hairline crack in this part on the distributor of my '92 Accord (you can see it where I'm pointing in the photo): http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps53a55535.jpg I've been informed this part may be what is called the top dead center sensor (although I'm not sure if this is correct information; perhaps someone here could confirm that for me?). Also, I noticed my new rotor has a hairline crack in it too. It's a crack only within one of the "webs" of the plastic part, and it doesn't extend from or to any of the metal of the rotor, just within the plastic. Here's a photo of my old rotor, where I am pointing with the pen to the location of where the crack is on my new rotor (new rotor still on distributor). The photo is rather dark but still viewable: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps70820934.jpg
I'd like an opinion as to whether it could be very likely either of these cracked parts could be preventing the car from starting (I get cranking but no start. It chugs once or twice like it might be ready to catch and start during cranking, but will not start). I checked spark from all plug wires with a spark tester, and get spark on all wires, but am not experienced enough to tell whether the spark is abnormal; seems kind of like an interrupted or perhaps weak sparking to me as I observe it while cranking. Any comment about this appreciated.

I doubt the sensor is causing problems unless it's electrically faulted (open/short) in sensing coil. It could be TDC, CPS, CYP sensor. I'm not sure which you're pointing to. You can download a shop manual from DIY forum, Online Manuals post and get resistance specs for the sensors to check.

Replace the rotor. It's too cheap to worry about. It might not be the problem, but not worth checking further.

Any recent work or problems? Did this stop while driving or just fail to start after stopping?

First step w/ all no-start conditions is to determine if spark or fuel is causing no-start. I like to start w/ turning keyswitch to ON and listening for fuel pump to come on (whirring noise from gas tank) and run for 2-3 secs. If you hear this every time, then fuel delivery is likely but does not totally rule out fuel.

Check for starting by spraying throttle body cleaner into air intake, a good 5-10 sec spray. If engine starts and runs briefly, spark is good and fuel delivery is somehow the problem. If no start persists, the spark is not adequate to run engine despite visual spark. Sometimes a weak spark will not be enough to ignite fuel or engine compression prevents spark from jumping across spark gap (higher air pressure increases resistance).

Try the above tests and report your findings. Someone can help.

good luck

The original issue was a good strong cranking but no start issue. This was a a few weeks back. So, then, suspecting a possible failed main relay, I removed mine and inspection revealed definite obvious cracks and general deterioration of several of the soldered contacts. I took the main relay to a guy who works on electronics and had him re-solder the contacts just as described here: MarkLamond.co.uk - PGM-Fi - Main Relay
After that, the car started right up, no problem, and I thought the problem was solved. However, a few days later, , the crank-but-no-start issue happened again. Upon inspection of the cap and rotor, I discovered the rotor edge contact had a charred area on it; here's a picture of it then: http://s207.photobucket.com/albums/s...psc5f2a38e.jpg
I had to order a new rotor, there was none for sale locally. Meanwhile I scraped off the charred area of the rotor with a fine file, back to bare metal, and tried starting with the cleaned-off rotor. Started right up, and worked fine. Again I thought the problem was solved. Then, when the new rotor arrived, I went ahead and installed it (along with a new cap too).
But since installing the new rotor, I'm back to the cranks but no-start issue again! Getting the old rotor off was a very hard pull with my fingers, it was on so tight. Likewise, putting the new rotor onto the shaft wasn't easy either; it didn't slip on without me having to push really really hard. In fact I could only get it halfway on before I decided maybe I should sand some of the rather rusty looking metal off the end of the shaft before trying to push it on all the way. So I pulled the new rotor back off, and even though it was only halfway on, it still was very tight on there, requiring me to pull especially hard to finally get it off. After sanding the the end of the shaft a little with some fine sandpaper I was able to slip the new rotor onto the shaft all the way, but still it seemed much harder to push onto the end of the shaft than it seemed it should be. Anyway, with all that struggling around with the rotor, I ended up with the crack in it as I described in my initial post here. I did check with the spark tester and I am getting spark from all four plug wires, but as I described. Seeing that I'm at least getting spark, now I moved on consider proper fuel delivery, and went ahead and changed out the fuel filter, thinking (hoping) that may be the only problem (fuel filter hadn't been changed for a long time). But new fuel filter made no difference. Still got exact same crank but no-start result as I've described. So far I haven't done anything further fuel-related troubleshooting.
I looked again at the distributor/rotor area and then happened to notice the hairline-looking crack running through that sensor part (what I'm pointing to in the photo in my initial post here). I'm hearing the appropriate clicks from the main relay when turning the key, and also hear the fuel pump kick in a few seconds, which should indicate the relay isn't the issue. With that crack in that sensor, I sort of am suspecting it may be bad and may causing the issue. Although I didn't accidentally crack it or even touch it myself; it must've happened by itself, no clue on how long it might have been like that. I'm thinking of trying to see if it'll throw a code; I would think if the sensor was bad it would throw a code? Wish I knew for sure which sensor it is. Any more comments/advice appreciated. Sorry for the long story here but just hoping with a little more background explained maybe it'll help others here to help me. Thanks!

You are still stuck w/ possible weak spark or fuel delivery issue. Try the starter fluid start test and see if it will catch/run briefly.

Do you have a timing light? If yes, check for spark by attaching inductive timing light lead to spark plug lead. Turn engine over and check for flashes w/ timing light. No flashes mean no spark in cylinder.

good luck

I haven't had a chance to do the starter fluid test yet, but will. And no, I don't have access to a timing light:(
I did try a check for codes. (I have OBD1 and used the paper clip method to jumper the service connector terminals and hen watched the check engine light for code blinks.) I seemed to get alternating trouble codes 15 and 16. I get one long blink followed by six short blinks, then I get one long blink followed by five short blinks; those two sequences over and over. The OBD1 trouble diagnostic code information I have says 15 means "ignition output signal", and 16 means "fuel injectors".
Does that make any sense? Comments please? Thanks again

15:
Check the wiring harness at the distributor. Look for loose/dirty/corroded connections. Ignition output signal is that circuit where the ECM tells the ignitor to fire the coil. The ignitor itself might be bad - some places like AutoZone can test the ignitor.

16:
Each injector has a 2-wire plug. One of those wires is the same color on all 4 injectors. That wire should have 12v all the time when the key is turned ON. Check whether that's OK.

And do the starter fluid check too.

For what's it may be worth, I made a video of the code(s) blinking: MVI_2037_zpsc743b327.mp4 Video by sgull1 | Photobucket
Here's another photo of the cracked sensor I've mentioned (pointing with pen): http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...psacf2eab4.jpg
And a couple photos of the crack(s) I discovered on the rotor:
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps8e36b64e.jpg
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps783319c6.jpg
When I do the test where I spray starter fluid into the throttle body, am I pointing in this photo to the air intake tube (big black plastic tube) that I'll apparently need to remove in order to spray into the throttle body? http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps30664327.jpg

The crack is serious enough to cause a problem allowing spark to short to ground.

I think the problem you had w/ installation may be caused by not opening a set screw on the rotor. Set screw holds rotor to distributor shaft after installation. Some rotors press-on and some have set-screw retainer.

You have read the Obd1 codes correctly.

good luck

Okay, I'll at least see about getting a replacement rotor for the cracked rotor. I'm assuming you're referring to the cracked rotor maybe shorting to ground and not the other cracked part (sensor I guess it is) shorting to ground.. I'm almost positive my rotor is the press-on type, no set screw, but I'll take a double-check on that. Also, my last question in post #7, about the throttle body, do I gotta remove that intake tube there, to squirt the starting fluid in to do that test? Thanks!

LIft the air filter cover and spray in at that point. Leave cover loose in case you need to repeat. A good long spray! If this doesn't cause a brief start, then ignition is definitely the problem.

Another way would be to remove the air intake to valve cover, PCV air intake. Simply pull it out and spray into duct at that point. It's in the pic you posted about midway.

good luck

Today I had the auto parts store test the ignitor with their testing machine. Tested fine. I haven't noticed any loose/dirty/corroded connections. With the rotor cracked as I posted pictures, could that possibly throw a code 15 with ignition just turned to on?

Code 15 is an electrical fault (short or open) in the ignition output signal circuit.

Since ignitor checked OK, this leave two possibities; open/short in Yel/Grn wire between ECM and ignitor, or ECM fault.

Yel/Grn wire can be checked by disconnecting at ECM and shorting connector pin for yel/grn to ground at distributor/harness connector. If check at ECM connector shows open, the yel/grn wire has an open circuit that must be found/repaired. If it shows shorted, remove ground short at distributor and check again for open circuit on yel/grn. If now open, the wire is good. If it shows shorted, there is a short to ground that must be found/repaired.

If yel/grn wire checks OK, then time to locate a used ECM (ebay, car-part.com) and swap ECM.

good luck

Texas, thanks for the description on how to check for open/short in the yel/grn wire. Looks rather complicated to me, and when I do that I'd probably need some more descriptive step-by-step details on the process, which I will ask for here when/if I get to that point. I really don't have much in the way of test equipment (jumper wires, test lights, etc.) I do have a multimeter and that's about it, if that's even required for the test you describe). Before moving on though, I'd like a couple questions answered please:
1. I mentioned I did a spark test using a spark tester, and that observed spark from each plug wire. If the ECM is bad or if there is an open/short circuit in the yel/grn wire as described, could I still be getting the spark I observed?
2. Could this cracked distributor part (a sensor I understand) have anything at all to do with getting the code 15? http://s207.photobucket.com/albums/s...psacf2eab4.jpg

1) Something is causing code 15. It may be the fault is internal to ECM, but to find out requires some testing or replace ECM to see if that's the problem.

2) I don't see how damaged sensor has anything to do w/ Code 15.

good luck

Okay, I got the car to start. And I really didn't do anything that I know of to make it start. But it only started once, and now, trying to start it again, it is back to the same cranks and maybe will chug a time or two, but only cranks but will not start. And I no longer am getting any codes.
In regard to the code 16 (fuel injectors) I mentioned I was getting (in addition to the code 15), I figured the reason I was getting the code 16 was because last week when I was doing the spark test with the spark tester I decided to unplug the injector resistor connector while cranking the engine to prevent flooding during the cranking/testing, and so the code 16 was probably still stored in the ECM and hadn't cleared because I never actually started the car and got it running since the test.
Here's the sequence of events since I last posted:
I went ahead and reinstalled the ignitor after having it tested today (it tested good).
I decided to clear the codes stored in the ECM. So I disconnected the negative cable from the battery for 30 seconds or so, then reconnected. Then I checked for code(s) again, and there were none.
I decided for the h... of it, I'll try starting the car. And what do you know, it started right up, easily. I let it run a little while, then shut it off a while. Then tried starting it again after a while. But no, it was right back to the exact behavior of cranks, chugs maybe once, but then just cranks only and but will not start. I checked for any codes again, but get none.
Needless to say I'm baffled. It seems a good sign that the car did at least start (although just once), and that there is no code 15 (or any code) now.

Despite all your random work, you are still no closer to solution. You need to know if fuel or spark is the problem. Spark appears to be likely, but you need confirmation that spark is missing when no-start is present.

Also, you never confirmed whether the fuel pump comes on and runs for 2-3 secs and goes off. This is fundamental for fuel pressure. If fuel pump doesn't run car won't start.

Have you performed starter fluid test to see if engine will start/run briefly w/ starter fluid?

Progress requires a logical approach, not just randomly checking/chainging parts.

good luck

Texas, I agree that I am no closer to a solution and that I need to know if spark or fuel is missing when no-start is present. I do not agree, however, that my work has been an approach of "just randomly checking/changing parts". It won't hurt to present the actual sequence of events here, for review.
1. Several weeks back, I was informed of this no-start issue, so began attempts to troubleshoot. When I tried starting the car, I got the cranks but no-start result. Upon some initial glancing at the spark plug wires, I noticed a rather obvious cut-like tear halfway through the coil wire to the distributor. I don't know how/who tore it like that, but nonetheless it was torn through to the center right next to its boot that fits on the distributor end. It seemed logical (to me) this could be source of the issue, so I purchased a replacement wire, in fact a whole new set of spark plug wires with coil wire included, and installed them. Result: No change/improvement in no-start condition. The torn coil wire, although highly suspicious to me as the cause, was apparently not the cause.
2. Next I started researching/googling for common reasons for the crank but no-start issue. I discovered that the main relay is notorious for failing in these vehicles, and my the symptom of crank but no-start seemed to match the description, and so (to me) seemed perhaps worth considering as the next logical culprit. So I removed and at least checked the appearance of the main relay (I wouldn't say as a "random" endeavor) and did discover cracks (or "dry joints") in the soldered contacts, several of which quite obviously matched just what is shown/described in the following the guide I found while researching: When the Main Relay goes bad
It seemed logical for me to either replace the relay, or have the contacts re-soldered as described here: Relay Repair So I took the relay in to a local electronics repair person to see if he could re-solder the bad/poor joints on the board for a reasonable price. He re-soldered it quite nicely/professionally just as described in that repair article. I reinstalled the repaired main relay and the car started right up. I assumed that solved the issue, because the car started. But the next time I tried starting (the next day), I was back again to the crank but no-start condition. It crossed my mind that maybe the repair of the relay was insufficient, but further reading about it indicated that it was indeed doing its job, as I could definitely hear the fuel pump come on and run for 2-3 secs and go off when turning the key to on (and I continue to observe this, each and every time I try starting).
3. I decided next it wouldn't hurt to inspect the distributor cap; I hadn't even done that yet. I thought maybe, (so perhaps randomly now) there was something like it was cracked or bad contacts or whatever in just bad enough to cause this apparently now intermittent crank but no-start issue. The cap looked fine, the terminal contacts perhaps a little worn and used looking, but generally fine. The rotor, however, had an area on its contact that looked burnt or charred; here's a picture of it: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...psc5f2a38e.jpg I live in a small town and neither of the two local parts stores happened to have new replacement rotor, so I ordered one. Meanwhile I tried filing off the charred-looking deposit on the rotor with a fine file, and managed to clean it off back to the bare metal. I reinstalled the cleaned-off rotor, and the car started right up. Again, I assumed the issue was solved. But the next time I tried starting, I got the crank but no-start issue again. As a side note here, I noticed (when I had the distributor cap off) the cracked sensor as I've mentioned; and here's the picture: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...psacf2eab4.jpg
Also, I have since replaced both the rotor with the new one that arrived, and also I replaced the cap with a new one too, as just a prudent thing to do (logical? maybe not, not sure, debatable I suppose).
4. To me it seemed logical to do a spark check next. I borrowed a spark tester, this one: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...psda40f17a.jpg With the tester I checked for spark output from all four spark plug wires while an assistant cranked the car. I saw spark from each, hard for me to describe the exact color or intensity but nonetheless I did see spark. Not sure if I had the tester gapped open as far as you're supposed to, but I gapped it to the specified gap of my spark plugs which is .044. While doing the spark test (cranking), I unplugged the fuel injector resistor as a method of preventing flooding the cylinders with fuel. I figure maybe that's why I encountered (later) the stored code 16 from the ECM (which has since cleared).
5. So, getting spark, its apparently logical to then check for proper fuel delivery. I know the fuel filter hadn't been changed for ages, and that the car had been driven frequently with hardly any gas in the tank and allowed to run out of gas a time or two, so I thought maybe the filter was dirty/clogged with old sediment or whatever. I thought it worth changing, not as a random measure here, but a logical move perhaps; it was high time for a fuel filter change anyway. I know it would have been more logical to try spraying starting fluid into the air intake first, as a fuel delivery problem check, but I didn't have any handy. I had a can at work and but forgot to bring it home until day or two later. That's why I ended up changing the filter before doing a starting fluid check.
6. Meanwhile, still not having done the starting fluid check, I thought about the possibility of that cracked sensor causing this apparent intermittent no-start issue. Somebody mentioned they thought if that was the case (sensor bad) that it should throw a code. So I checked for codes, as I've described, but got no code for a bad sensor, just the code 15 (ignition output signal) and the code 16 as I've also mentioned. With the information that a code 15 can mean a bad ignitor, or short/open circuit to the ignitor, or bad ECM, I thought perhaps then a logical move might be to check the ignitor first, because I know they have a tester for ignitors and do that for free at the auto parts store. What didn't seem logical (to me) though, was that I was testing for a bad ignitor even though my spark test revealed I was getting spark. But I had the ignitor checked anyway, and it checked out fine.
7. Before reinstalling the ignitor, I decided to clear the OBD codes, just to make sure I'd be starting fresh again with no stored codes. Then I installed the ignitor and checked for any code again. There was none. I tried starting the car, and it started right up, easily. Next time I tried starting the car, I was back to the same cranks but no-start issue. I checked for any codes again, and there are none. I tried starting the car again after sitting overnight, but same thing, cranks but no-start. That's where I'm at now, and seem to be remaining. New paragraph below.

I've still yet to perform the starting fluid into the air intake test. I have a can of it but not a helper to crank after I spray. I can/will do it soon. Although the car did start already, as per my last post here, so I assume it's getting fuel okay (rightly or wrongly). Unless something is causing an intermittent improper fuel delivery to cause my issue. New paragraph below.

Probably no sense now in speculating until after the starting fluid test, but what might be the next logical step if I get no change in start-up behavior with that test? I'm thinking do yet another spark test?
Any further advice/comments certainly welcome! Thanks!

Clearly something is intermittent; either fuel or spark. That's why it's essential to perform the main fuel relay check (listen for fuel pump) and check for start w/ starter fluid when no-start condition is presented.

We have seen instances of spark that could be seen, but would not start the car. Weak coil (internal short) is usual culprit.

It could also be an intermittent ignition switch assy.

Isolation of fuel or spark reduces the number of possibile faults.

good luck

To update, I just had the opportunity to try to start w/ starter fluid as suggested. While spraying generously into the air intake, I had an assistant crank the engine, with no effect/change of my crank but no-start symptoms.
In regard to the main fuel relay check, as I previously mentioned, I definitely hear the fuel pump come on and run for 2-3 secs and go off when turning the key to on (and I continue to observe this, each and every time I try starting).
After this last attempt at starting, I again checked for any codes, and there are none.
If a weak spark is happening, obviously it must have been strong enough to start the car last night, so it seems if spark is weak enough to prevent starting, it must be happening most of the time but not all of the time.
I can try spark testing with my spark tester again, maybe this time widening the gap (maybe up to an inch or so?) so as to see a possible stronger-looking spark. I can try to check coil output as well. And I can consider intermittent ignition switch assy as suggested, also. I'm somewhat relieved that I'm not getting code 15, but am rather mystified why it was there in the first place. Regardless, this feeling I am no closer to a solution is very discouraging. But thank you and I do appreciate your patient replies and helpful suggestions so far.

This thread is getting long, so I skimmed through it.

There is a ground on the thermostat housing under the distributor. Disconnect that ground, clean the eyelet and bolt with a wire brush or some sand paper, then reattach.

Yes this thread is most definitely getting long, I agree with you there. Thanks PAhonda for that suggestion. I'll do it!

Well it looks as if I can't do it after all. There does not seem to be a ground wire as you describe attached to any bolt on the thermostat housing, as can be seen in this picture: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps32bf84e4.jpg
Here's a picture of the other side where you can see the bolts from the other angle, and as well can see the connector plugged into the housing (I assume for coolant temperature sensing), http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...psbb63aab4.jpg but no ground wire with eyelet attached to any bolt on the thermostat housing on this engine. :(

Could it have been moved to another engine-gound nearby? (I think in later-year Accords the bundle of ground wires might have moved to another bolt on the intake manifold.)

But certainly if you have ground wires that are not properly fastened, that would explain intermittent non-start problems.

The pictures you show are not the thermostat housing, but rather the upper radiator hose fitting at the engine side.

Thermostat housing is on the lower radiator hose at the engine side, behind and below the distributor. You will need to remove the air intake duct to clearly see/check the ground wire.

One final check to further eliminate fuel is to check that injectors are "clicking" when engine is turned over. You can feel them or hear them w/ tube stethoscope.

Problem is very likely ignition system; ignition switch assy, coil, or ignitor. Suggest checking Blk/Yel wire at distributor connector for 12V w/ ignition switch On. No power would indicate an ignition switch fault.

Sorry, if I missed earlier reports on fuel pump running. I read and missed apparently. As noted, thread is getting long.

good luck

Okay Texas thanks. I found the ground wire now where you described. No wonder I couldn't find it if I wasn't even looking on the thermostat housing to begin with. Good to know for future reference next time I need to change the thermostat! So anyway I noticed the upper radiator hose is of course right above the bolt where the ground wire is connected. I'll take it off and clean up the connection as PAHonda described. I also noticed there's a very slight drip/seepage dripping down from the radiator hose connection there, pretty much right onto that ground wire. I'll keep ya posted. thanks

Update: Removed ground wire and bolt from thermostat housing and cleaned/sanded it good, even though upon inspecting the contact really wasn't particularly dirty or corroded looking at all. There was a very slight seepage/wetness I could feel coming from the radiator hose clamped directly above (connected to the housing). The clamp was a little loose so I just tightened up good, and seepage stopped. Tried starting but got same result, no change.
So before moving on to some of the other suggested checks I'd like to make sure I've described the no-start behavior I get, and have been getting, with no change regardless of what I do. Car cranks and feels like it sort of "catches" once in a while, but never actually gets running. What I mean by "sort of catches" is for a few brief moments (a second or two) it gets the vroom-type starting sound of pistons being fired and compression happening, sounds like it is starting up, usually during the first initial cranks, then that stops/ends and it just cranks. As though briefly it is getting the right combination of spark and fuel at the proper timing, but that combination doesn't continue, it seems to get cut off. That's the way it acts/seems.
This thread is getting ridiculously long I know, but I hate to give up just yet. I ask once again for perhaps a comment or two on what seems reasonable to check next (out of the many various suggestions already suggested, some of which I've tried,), based on my description in above paragraph. I might mention again here I've had the ignitor checked on the machine at the auto parts store, and it checked out fine, and my check engine and indicator lights are acting normally when I turn the key on and/or to start, and I'm not getting any codes from the ECM. thanks again

Update: A bad coil might be the problem.

I took the coil out and checked primary and secondary resistance readouts on a multimeter, according to specifications for this vehicle. Between two of the primary terminals, I get nothing where I should be getting an ohms reading of approximately 2,090 and 2,310 (between terminals B and D). Guess I'll see about getting a new coil. I'll probably send away for one, Ebay probably, something like that. So I won't get it for a week or so, so won't know for sure until then whether a new coil solves my issue. But wouldn't you think it definitely should?

Unless you're measuring it wrong, and open-circuit means a bad coil. Then the remaining question is whether that's the only bad part.

Your secondary coil, ohms spec should be 12-20 Kohms (from memory don't have manual w/ me), not 2-3K ohms. Primary coil will be almost a dead short, just a few ohms. Make sure you have correct multimeter ohms range set.

good luck

I have the manual with me.
It says:
1. Measure resistance between terminal A and C. It should be between 0.6-0.8 ohms.
2. Measure the resistance between terminal A and the secondary terminal. It should be between 14,000 and 22,000 ohms.
3. Check the resistance between terminals B and D. It should be approximately 2,090-2,310 ohms.
4. Test at terminal A and B. Continuity must be present.

My results, after just double checking, corresponding to steps above:
1. Nothing. (00) on readout.
2. 17,100 ohms.
3. Nothing. (00) on readout.
4. Continuity is present.

I made sure I had correct multimeter ohms range set. And I tried on three separate meters, with two separate knowledgeable people to help me confirm. Got basically the same results each time on all tests.

True, (although see my last post). I don't think I can do any more to try to verify the coil is bad.

Is this an OEM manual? Are you measuring resistances at connector or directly on the coil? If on the coil, you must disconnect from distributor to get correct readings. I think you have to remove connector to perform test but wanted to be sure.

Is terminal D the secondary terminal? It does not appear on 1994 F22B2 diagram I have.

Can you post your diagram? If by zero, you mean a dead short this could be a fault, or perhaps your multimeter can not distinguish such as small resistance. What was resistance scale setting when you measured A-C and B-D.

good luck

It is not an OEM manual; it's a Chilton manual. The specs I quoted are specifically for the 1992-92 Accord. I'll see if I might be able to scan the diagram/drawing of the coil and connector terminals from the manual and post it here (update: see my next post). I did the testing with the coil removed from the vehicle. The four A,B,C, and D terminals ("pins") on the coil are what the connector plugs into. Resistance scale setting when measuring between A-C was 2 ohms. Resistance scale setting when measuring B-D was 20K ohms and also tried it with 2K ohms setting too. If I recall when testing with the two other multimeters there was a very minimal readout of 0.1 ohm between A-C. The multimeters I tested with were all digital.

Here's the diagram/drawing from the manual:
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...psde653e40.jpg

Do you have an accompanying wiring diagram. My OEM manual has same connector picture, but the wiring diagram does not show a "D" wire on engine side of harness. There are 3 wires connecting to coil and one HV coil output. D may not be connected a wire on engine side connector.

Or, you have a completely different system than presented in the 1994 F22B2 ignition system.

My diagram indicates only the following resistance combinations are possible. No D combination is shown.

1) A-C - zero ohms, dead short
2) A-B - Primary coil, 0.6-0.8 ohms
3) A - Coil Output Terminal - 14-22 kohms

It may be that D is connected to the output terminal, however this would create a possilble HV leakage so seems unlikely.

good luck

Here's a picture of the info I'm going by, from my manual, for my '92 Accord:
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps104cb3b7.jpg
And here's the best I can do for a wiring diagram from the manual, showing the coil in diagram (sorry about blurriness); doesn't seem specific as to ABCD terminals/wiring on the diagram: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...pse74191f7.jpg

Terminal D must be strictly a test port on the coil. It is not documented in the 94 manual I have. Your picture does not show a D location on the coil. That A-D resistance spec appears no where in Honda manual. No combination of series or parallel of primary and secondary could account for that resistance.

If you're confident of your measurements, the primary appears to be shorted. This would be unusual, as the secondary is usually the source of problems.

good luck

Let's say I'm fairly/reasonably confident of my measurements. In retrospect I was thinking perhaps the cut-like tear I discovered halfway through the coil wire (please see my post #17 this thread, toward the beginning, where I describe it) was perhaps what contributed to the coil going bad, if indeed it's definitely bad.

The coils in the distributor provide timing signals which the ECM uses to time fuel injection and spark. However, the voltage in the coils is very low< 5v, so unless the coil is open, a tiny crack will have no affect. You can measure coil resistance and compare to specs.

good luck

I'm unclear about your response as quoted above. You mention coils in the distributor, whereas we've been discussing (most recently in this long thread) my measuring of the resistance(s) of the ignition coil compared to specs. To what/where are you referring a tiny crack? Tiny crack in the sensor in the distributor?