Yes this thread is most definitely getting long, I agree with you there. Thanks PAhonda for that suggestion. I'll do it!

Well it looks as if I can't do it after all. There does not seem to be a ground wire as you describe attached to any bolt on the thermostat housing, as can be seen in this picture: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps32bf84e4.jpg
Here's a picture of the other side where you can see the bolts from the other angle, and as well can see the connector plugged into the housing (I assume for coolant temperature sensing), http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...psbb63aab4.jpg but no ground wire with eyelet attached to any bolt on the thermostat housing on this engine. :(

Could it have been moved to another engine-gound nearby? (I think in later-year Accords the bundle of ground wires might have moved to another bolt on the intake manifold.)

But certainly if you have ground wires that are not properly fastened, that would explain intermittent non-start problems.

The pictures you show are not the thermostat housing, but rather the upper radiator hose fitting at the engine side.

Thermostat housing is on the lower radiator hose at the engine side, behind and below the distributor. You will need to remove the air intake duct to clearly see/check the ground wire.

One final check to further eliminate fuel is to check that injectors are "clicking" when engine is turned over. You can feel them or hear them w/ tube stethoscope.

Problem is very likely ignition system; ignition switch assy, coil, or ignitor. Suggest checking Blk/Yel wire at distributor connector for 12V w/ ignition switch On. No power would indicate an ignition switch fault.

Sorry, if I missed earlier reports on fuel pump running. I read and missed apparently. As noted, thread is getting long.

good luck

Okay Texas thanks. I found the ground wire now where you described. No wonder I couldn't find it if I wasn't even looking on the thermostat housing to begin with. Good to know for future reference next time I need to change the thermostat! So anyway I noticed the upper radiator hose is of course right above the bolt where the ground wire is connected. I'll take it off and clean up the connection as PAHonda described. I also noticed there's a very slight drip/seepage dripping down from the radiator hose connection there, pretty much right onto that ground wire. I'll keep ya posted. thanks

Update: Removed ground wire and bolt from thermostat housing and cleaned/sanded it good, even though upon inspecting the contact really wasn't particularly dirty or corroded looking at all. There was a very slight seepage/wetness I could feel coming from the radiator hose clamped directly above (connected to the housing). The clamp was a little loose so I just tightened up good, and seepage stopped. Tried starting but got same result, no change.
So before moving on to some of the other suggested checks I'd like to make sure I've described the no-start behavior I get, and have been getting, with no change regardless of what I do. Car cranks and feels like it sort of "catches" once in a while, but never actually gets running. What I mean by "sort of catches" is for a few brief moments (a second or two) it gets the vroom-type starting sound of pistons being fired and compression happening, sounds like it is starting up, usually during the first initial cranks, then that stops/ends and it just cranks. As though briefly it is getting the right combination of spark and fuel at the proper timing, but that combination doesn't continue, it seems to get cut off. That's the way it acts/seems.
This thread is getting ridiculously long I know, but I hate to give up just yet. I ask once again for perhaps a comment or two on what seems reasonable to check next (out of the many various suggestions already suggested, some of which I've tried,), based on my description in above paragraph. I might mention again here I've had the ignitor checked on the machine at the auto parts store, and it checked out fine, and my check engine and indicator lights are acting normally when I turn the key on and/or to start, and I'm not getting any codes from the ECM. thanks again

Update: A bad coil might be the problem.

I took the coil out and checked primary and secondary resistance readouts on a multimeter, according to specifications for this vehicle. Between two of the primary terminals, I get nothing where I should be getting an ohms reading of approximately 2,090 and 2,310 (between terminals B and D). Guess I'll see about getting a new coil. I'll probably send away for one, Ebay probably, something like that. So I won't get it for a week or so, so won't know for sure until then whether a new coil solves my issue. But wouldn't you think it definitely should?

Unless you're measuring it wrong, and open-circuit means a bad coil. Then the remaining question is whether that's the only bad part.

Your secondary coil, ohms spec should be 12-20 Kohms (from memory don't have manual w/ me), not 2-3K ohms. Primary coil will be almost a dead short, just a few ohms. Make sure you have correct multimeter ohms range set.

good luck

I have the manual with me.
It says:
1. Measure resistance between terminal A and C. It should be between 0.6-0.8 ohms.
2. Measure the resistance between terminal A and the secondary terminal. It should be between 14,000 and 22,000 ohms.
3. Check the resistance between terminals B and D. It should be approximately 2,090-2,310 ohms.
4. Test at terminal A and B. Continuity must be present.

My results, after just double checking, corresponding to steps above:
1. Nothing. (00) on readout.
2. 17,100 ohms.
3. Nothing. (00) on readout.
4. Continuity is present.

I made sure I had correct multimeter ohms range set. And I tried on three separate meters, with two separate knowledgeable people to help me confirm. Got basically the same results each time on all tests.