Handbrake Adjustment
 

Hey all so here's whats up.

About 3 weeks ago I replaced my rear pads and adjusted my e-brake cable (I don't think it had ever been tightened)

I did it the proper way by using the screw adjuster under the armrest.


So today on the interstate I applied the e-brake (enough to slow down but nothing dangerous) and noticed the car pulled to the left as if I had just hit the left rudder pedal in a plane. I did this over a couple times to make sure it wasn't a fluke, it is slight but i notice slight things.... I guess you could say I am anal about having my car run tip top...

Obviously the e-brake is grabbing the left rear disk more than the right and I am not sure why. Before the adjustment I never noticed this, and since it is cable and lever actuated it has nothing to do with air in the brake lines. I thought it could be a frozen caliper (right rear) but when applying the foot brake I don't notice any deviation from straight, even when slowing quickly...

Anyone got advice?

not what you're looking for, but use the e-brake for static parking situations, which is the designed use.
I've used mine a time or two for 5 mph stops, nothing like what you're doing though.

you can shoot me now ... go ahead.

Well, I've done what Silver said, and it's not normal to pull like that. I don't do that routinely, but I've done it as a test.

Sticking caliper was my first thought. Slide pins OK? Did you clean & lube them when you did the rear brake pads?

How about the auto-adjusters? Notice anything when you twisted the caliper pistons in to make room for the new pads? I usually don't twist them all the way in; just enough to make room for the new pads. That way the auto-adjuster doesn't have so far to go as it tries to balance them. Possibly pull the handbrake (while parked) up & down about 200 times.

How about a sticky cable? If the cable on one side is sticking (dirty or corrosion) I suspect it can lead to this situation. Have someone pull the handbrake up & down repeatedly while you watch the little lever back on the calipers. Do they both move the same amount?

Exactly, and while the "primary intended use" of the handbrake is parking applications it is also "intended" to be a emergency back up if the brake system were to fail. Also after doing tons of mountain driving I am aware that the front brakes on the 6 gen are undersized, they heat up and warp quickly. So on long steep downhill grades I will use the e-brake gingerly to keep the speed in check between pedal use. Rear pads and rotors are cheaper to replace.

Disclaimer; not to sound conceded but I have 7 years of road racing experience and have been professionally schooled and licensed in car / slide control, racing and accident avoidance. I do not suggest the average Joe or Jane goes out and uses their handbrake down the back side of a mountain pass. If you don't know how what you are doing can impact where you are going then simply don't do it.

I don't remember lubing the slide pins :( so I will put it up in the air again and do that.

never noticed anything that sent up a red flag... I do know that I have a ripped boot on my front right caliper piston... but haven't seen any issue as of yet due to that.

Good idea I will do that. Thanks Jim

Ripped boot on FRONT right caliper won't do this. Look for stuff on the rear caliipers. But still, any ripped boot isn't good.

I had uneven rear braking like that on a 95 Integra. Caliper slide pins were sticking, causing one of the rear brakes to drag. Didn't notice it soon enough, and it overheated the one caliper. After I fixed the slide pins, now the overheating did 2 things.
1) The spring on the handbrake lever (at the caliper) had lost some of it's strength.
2) That lever acts through a shaft going into the caliper. That shaft developed some corrosion and was not smooth & easy to operate.
My "fix" was to buy a pair of rebuilt calipers.

When you take apart the rear caliper to lube the slides, make sure you have a small file handy. I did mine the other day, and needed to file a bunch of corrosion off the slide bolts to get them to work properly.
I also cleaned off the ratchet mechanism with PB Blaster and an old toothbrush.
You should do that too while the wheels are off.

Thanks guys, I am going to do this tonight or tomorrow as I am heading into the mountains for Thanksgiving and don't want to overheat my brakes.

Thanks guys I'll let ya know what I find.

Regarding sticking brakes, I've often had to file down the ends of the brake pad backing plates where they fit into the caliper bracket. They should fit into the caliper bracket nice but not wedged tightly.

One some brake pads, there is are nubs on the back of the brake pad. Watch this video about how to align he slot properly.
One other option is to put the rear of the car on jackstands. Pull up on the hand brake one click. Spin each tire. Repeat until one of the tire does not spin. Then inspect what is going on with the other brake.

Could be sticking caliper piston. Sticking brake pad.

I think I noticed the pull with the foot brake today too... I am leaning toward a stuck pad or piston. I'll get it on the lift tomorrow and inspect it.