Ok, finally got back to this! I verified that I has 12 volts at the blk/yel wire at the coil, and replaced the cap and rotor. While I was in there i tried to check the resistance of the coil, but I could nont easily loosen the screws on the coil wires (B was slightly corroded) and I was afraid to strip the screw head. So I checked the secondary resistance while it was connected. I did not see 13-19 kohms, but I suppose that testing in place is not valid? I also noticed something that seemed odd... the connection between the coil and the distributor cap consists of a spring coming out of the coli. I guess i expected that there would be a connector or tip of some sort on the end of the spring, but I didn't see anything. Anyway, I hooked it back up but it still doesn't fire... any suggestions? replace the coil?

 

You pretty much narrowed it down to the coil or the ignitor. Testing the resistance in place should be fine. I would replace the coil.

 

Ok, will do. The resistance was below 10,000 ohms, I didn't bother lowering the range on the meter to get a better reading because I assumed the test may not have been valid (since it was still connected to the vehicle). But if it is OK to test it this way, then presumably the resistance is too low. Does this indicate a short?

On a side note, I learned that there were two different suppliers for the ignition parts (TEC and Hitachi), which are completely different and not interchangeable. I don't recall seeing that with any other car I've had. Turns out mine is TEC equipped.

 

The distributors are different between the EX vs the LX/DX. A low resistance would mean that there is a short on the secondary coil.

 

After work tonight I removed the coil, and decided to re-check the secondary resistance once again. Maybe I did something wrong the other day, or maybe my old multimeter is dying, but this time it showed a resistance of 16kohms, which is within specification. Is it possible that the coil is still the culprit? If not, how do I remove the igniter?

 

The ignitor should have four wires going to it. You would unplug those and there should be two bolts or screws holding it in.

The ignitor is basically a switch that charges then fires the coil. If you pick up a 12V test light at radio shack, you can easily test the ignitor without removing it. I got a 12V LED that does the job fine.

Basically, you unplug the the two wire connector that powers the coil (the blk/yel and other color wire). Connect the two leads from the bulb to the two wires. You are basically attaching the light in place of the coil. Have someone try to start the car. The light should flash. If it does not, then the ECU or ignitor are bad. If it does flash, then the coil should be replaced, because that is the only component that is left.

A bad ignitor should also set a code on your ECU. Short the two pin connector under the glove box with a thin paper clip and count the flashes on the ECU. Check out the onboard diagnostics part of the tegger site I linked below if you are not familiar on how to retrieve ECU codes.

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html

 

I really do appreciate the help and the detailed explanations; I've not had much experience with fixing Hondas. So I connected the test light to the igniter, and had no flash when I tried to start it. So I purchased the igniter and installed it, but still no luck. So then I re-checked the resistance on the coil (it was OK), and verified that I indeed have 12V between the + terminal on the coil and the negative post on the car battery when the key is in the II position. I also rechecked a couple of the plug wires with the timing light hooked up (not a flicker). So what should I try now? You mentioned the ECU; could that be the problem? Or the coil??

 

Coil is likely your problem.

Resistance test can be difficult to perform correctly. Don't feel bad, this problem has plagued many folks. There is a DIY FAQ to distinguish between ignitor and coil, which may help.

good luck

 

I suspect you are right. In the meantime I was reading about the ECU, and it sounds like it is working OK if the Check Engine light comes on for two seconds and then goes out when the key is turned to II, which mine does. Also, I looked for error codes on the ECU itself, and it returns a 15 (Ignition output signal). Would this code be consistent with a dead coil?

 

A code 15 indicates a problem with the ignitor or the ECU.

Is the ignitor a Honda one or an aftermarket one? Make sure that you wired the ignitor correctly. Check that the wires are in good shape too.

You can find out the wiring and diagnostic stuff in the shop manual for a 91 accord. Download a pdf of it from the spoon honda link in the online manuals thread in the DIY section.