Help!!
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2025
Posts: 7
Help!!
I got a 1995 honda accord pretty sure its the f22b2 and I recently replaced the fuel pump and injectors but when I go to crank itll sputtering like its trying to start but won't but on occasion itll run for a very quick moment but very weakly idk what to do
Super Moderator
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 16,328
From: Houston, TX
This is a crank/no-start. You need fuel, spark, compression, air, and correct mechanica/spark timing. Were the fuel pump and injectors replaced beforre or ater you had the no start? Any other recent work done on the car efore you had the crank/no-start?
A quick test for fuel: When you first get in the car, turn the key to the II position, but don't try to start the car. When the check engine light does the bulb check, the fuel pump should turn on for about two seconds to pressure the system. This is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat, so turn off the radio, blower, etc. and listen carefully. Once you know that sound, let us know if that sound is missing when you have the no-start.
For spark, you can use an old spark plug or spark tester. Pull a spark plug wire and ground the tester. Have an assistant crank the car. Look for spark at the plug or spark tester.
Also check for OBD1 codes. Click on the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help list. Click on CEL code retrieval towards the top of my post.
A quick test for fuel: When you first get in the car, turn the key to the II position, but don't try to start the car. When the check engine light does the bulb check, the fuel pump should turn on for about two seconds to pressure the system. This is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat, so turn off the radio, blower, etc. and listen carefully. Once you know that sound, let us know if that sound is missing when you have the no-start.
For spark, you can use an old spark plug or spark tester. Pull a spark plug wire and ground the tester. Have an assistant crank the car. Look for spark at the plug or spark tester.
Also check for OBD1 codes. Click on the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help list. Click on CEL code retrieval towards the top of my post.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2025
Posts: 7
This is a crank/no-start. You need fuel, spark, compression, air, and correct mechanica/spark timing. Were the fuel pump and injectors replaced beforre or ater you had the no start? Any other recent work done on the car efore you had the crank/no-start?
A quick test for fuel: When you first get in the car, turn the key to the II position, but don't try to start the car. When the check engine light does the bulb check, the fuel pump should turn on for about two seconds to pressure the system. This is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat, so turn off the radio, blower, etc. and listen carefully. Once you know that sound, let us know if that sound is missing when you have the no-start.
For spark, you can use an old spark plug or spark tester. Pull a spark plug wire and ground the tester. Have an assistant crank the car. Look for spark at the plug or spark tester.
Also check for OBD1 codes. Click on the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help list. Click on CEL code retrieval towards the top of my post.
A quick test for fuel: When you first get in the car, turn the key to the II position, but don't try to start the car. When the check engine light does the bulb check, the fuel pump should turn on for about two seconds to pressure the system. This is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat, so turn off the radio, blower, etc. and listen carefully. Once you know that sound, let us know if that sound is missing when you have the no-start.
For spark, you can use an old spark plug or spark tester. Pull a spark plug wire and ground the tester. Have an assistant crank the car. Look for spark at the plug or spark tester.
Also check for OBD1 codes. Click on the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help list. Click on CEL code retrieval towards the top of my post.
Super Moderator
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 16,328
From: Houston, TX
The timing belt has to be removed to replace the water pump, so I'd check timing. The previous owner could have installed the distributor 180 degrees out of time (it is keyed, but I managed to do this once) or switched up the firing order.
I'd pull spark plug #1 (driver's side cylinder) and hand crank the engine to get #1 to top dead center. You could pull the valve cover to watch line up the cam sprocket, or you can cover cylinder #1 with your hand. When you feel air pressure, you are starting the compression stroke. Then use someting ike a long dowel or long screwdriver to stop hand cranking when the you see the screwdriver stop moving up.
Then you can pull the distributor cap and verify the contact of the rotor is pointing towards the spark plug wire going to cylinder 1. You can also check the firing order as 1,3,4,2. Its clockwise looking from the passenger side at the distributor. You can remember the direction as the direction the tires spin when in drive.
I'd pull spark plug #1 (driver's side cylinder) and hand crank the engine to get #1 to top dead center. You could pull the valve cover to watch line up the cam sprocket, or you can cover cylinder #1 with your hand. When you feel air pressure, you are starting the compression stroke. Then use someting ike a long dowel or long screwdriver to stop hand cranking when the you see the screwdriver stop moving up.
Then you can pull the distributor cap and verify the contact of the rotor is pointing towards the spark plug wire going to cylinder 1. You can also check the firing order as 1,3,4,2. Its clockwise looking from the passenger side at the distributor. You can remember the direction as the direction the tires spin when in drive.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2025
Posts: 7
I took valve cover over put at tdc and noticed the cam sprocket is off i know how to aligned the notches on the back of the sprocket with the top of the cylinder head and make sure the UP is obviously up on the front. Im 98% certain the timing is off the notch and the UP is off while at tdc. Im not the one to do the water pump so I have to fix someone else mess up which of course some how the crank pulley bolt is impossible to remove even though it was recently removed
Last edited by BrandonP002; Aug 20, 2025 at 10:02 PM.
Super Moderator
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 16,328
From: Houston, TX
That sucks fixing someone else's mistake(s).
You don't have to remove the lower cover, but I probably would since the previous person could have messed up other stuff. I think O'Reily's has a honda crank pulley holder tool as a loaner. It is a large hex socket where you use a breaker bar to hold the pulley. The hex has a large hole to fit the 36mm socket on the crank bolt. I wedged the breaker bar on the hex to the sub-frame (the ground would work too). I used a long 1/2 extension on the 36mm socket and rested the other end of the extension on a jackstand to keep the socket parallel to the ground. The I could use a breaker bar on the extension with a long cheater bar and had to swiing the cheater bar about 120 degrees before the bolt broke loose. Hope this makes sense.
A strong enough impact can loosen that bolt and you might need to put some heat on the bolt as well to break up any lock-tite. I'd suggest to pay a shop to break the bolt loose, but you can't drive your car right now.
You can do this without removing that pulley. The crank pulley has a three clustered notches on the edge closer to the engine, and a fourth notch that is about 15 degrees away. That solo notch is the TDC mark. Paint it with some whiteout. The lower timing belt cover has a v-shaped notch protruding from the cover. You can line up the pulley mark in that notch and set the crank to TDC. Then you can release the tensioner with the lower cover on and adjust the timing belt on the cam sprocket.
We can give you some tips to check the front and rear balance shaft belt alignment with the lower cover on.
The tensioner pulley can also be installed improperly. The tensioner has a hole that sits on a post from the engine block, so it rotates on that post to set the tension. This is something easily overlooked, so maybe you can check with the lower cover and crank pulley still installed.
You don't have to remove the lower cover, but I probably would since the previous person could have messed up other stuff. I think O'Reily's has a honda crank pulley holder tool as a loaner. It is a large hex socket where you use a breaker bar to hold the pulley. The hex has a large hole to fit the 36mm socket on the crank bolt. I wedged the breaker bar on the hex to the sub-frame (the ground would work too). I used a long 1/2 extension on the 36mm socket and rested the other end of the extension on a jackstand to keep the socket parallel to the ground. The I could use a breaker bar on the extension with a long cheater bar and had to swiing the cheater bar about 120 degrees before the bolt broke loose. Hope this makes sense.
A strong enough impact can loosen that bolt and you might need to put some heat on the bolt as well to break up any lock-tite. I'd suggest to pay a shop to break the bolt loose, but you can't drive your car right now.
You can do this without removing that pulley. The crank pulley has a three clustered notches on the edge closer to the engine, and a fourth notch that is about 15 degrees away. That solo notch is the TDC mark. Paint it with some whiteout. The lower timing belt cover has a v-shaped notch protruding from the cover. You can line up the pulley mark in that notch and set the crank to TDC. Then you can release the tensioner with the lower cover on and adjust the timing belt on the cam sprocket.
We can give you some tips to check the front and rear balance shaft belt alignment with the lower cover on.
The tensioner pulley can also be installed improperly. The tensioner has a hole that sits on a post from the engine block, so it rotates on that post to set the tension. This is something easily overlooked, so maybe you can check with the lower cover and crank pulley still installed.
Last edited by PAhonda; Aug 21, 2025 at 11:36 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2025
Posts: 7
If I can do all that without taking the cover off then thats great because I tried getting crank pulley off with the right tools but apparently it dont like me and I got a shop down the road who want $64 to break it loose. I thought there was other components besides the crank can cam that needs to be in time
Super Moderator
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 16,328
From: Houston, TX
The timing belt just keeps the cam and crank pulley in time. It also drives the water pump, but the water pump pulley does not require any sprocket alignment. There is a separate balancer belt that drives counterweight shafts to keep the engine's center of mass balanced. If this belt is off, the engine will vibrate.
I described getting the crank pulley at TDC using the notch. You can also use the long screwdriver trick on #1 and keep an eye on the alignment mark to be more confident. The slight notches on the crank pulley are painted from the factory, but the paint gets very faded over time.
Once you get the crank set, you can loosen the tensioner through an access hole in the lower cover, then lift the belt at the cam and spin the cam sprocket to TDC and reinstall the belt. Adjust the tension, then recheck the timing. Here is a video on a civic where he does the timing belt out of the car. The engine is similar to the accord. On his site, he sells a detailed video on changing the F22B1/2 timing and balance belt that is very helpful. You can also search the web for CD7_CD9.pdf that will get you a 94 shop manual that is identical to your 95, where you can look over the Honda procedure.
I described getting the crank pulley at TDC using the notch. You can also use the long screwdriver trick on #1 and keep an eye on the alignment mark to be more confident. The slight notches on the crank pulley are painted from the factory, but the paint gets very faded over time.
Once you get the crank set, you can loosen the tensioner through an access hole in the lower cover, then lift the belt at the cam and spin the cam sprocket to TDC and reinstall the belt. Adjust the tension, then recheck the timing. Here is a video on a civic where he does the timing belt out of the car. The engine is similar to the accord. On his site, he sells a detailed video on changing the F22B1/2 timing and balance belt that is very helpful. You can also search the web for CD7_CD9.pdf that will get you a 94 shop manual that is identical to your 95, where you can look over the Honda procedure.