Hey all,

first post here, because I never had problems before with Honda's exept for a few D16 blowing up due to over revving...


anyway here goes, This morning IO took my grilfriend to hospital (nothing serious) all was fine exept for the SRS light that's on for a few days now (got appointment with dealer for that)
when I got home I ate a pizza and after that I wanted to go to work. this was about an hour after I got home without any problems.

I unlocked the doors (non remote type) and everything seemed fine. but when I put my ignition key in the barrel and clicked to the first ON position I noticed my radio turning on and instantly off again but I could hear the antenna going up in a not co smooth way, more like pop pop ppo doing 5 cm at each pop, when it was halfway up it began going down again.
all of a sudden I hear a heavy click from underneath the dash and when I put the key onw click further so ign=2 everything powered started fading untill there was apperantly no power left to keep any lights lit in the dash, when I then tried to start the car I could just hear the bendix engaging but it wouldn't cranck.

I took 3 trusty fluke multimeters outside and started measuring, after I tried for 3 times to start but the same thing happening over and over again (yes I do have 3 meter because my hobby is building kit-cars without carbs and about a dozen computers init so I'm not completely unknown to car electrics)
anyway the battery is fine unloaded at 13v and with a 100 amp dummy-load it's 12.8v so not a problem there. however I measured the accesoiry volttage via the cigarette lighter and to my susprize there's only 4.6 volts there wafter I turn the key to position 2. in with the key in crancking mode I still read over 12v from the battery.

at the bendix on the starter it has also 12V, but the interiour seems to get only <5V even when I'm not cranking.

After I took the battery negative cable of I at least got the antenna to stop going up and down....

funnything is that with the key in IGN1 position everything works inside the car. I could not find any blown fuses or smelly wiring.

the car is completly stock, 2.0 16v accord LS (limosine) 4 door build in 1998 but it's the older model same as the 1997 one CE8 chassis code I believe.

Normally the first thing I replace using an engine or part of it, is throw away the computer controlling it and getting a programmable ECU to do it's best so I don't have very much knowledge of honda electrics, but I do know enough that this is very very weird.

so anybody got some sugestions?

help much apreciated!

sorry for any spelling probs, I'm a dutchie

grtz Thomas

 

try removing the fuse for your power antenna to make sure that it's not shorting something out, if that doesn't help anything then make sure that all of the fuses under the hood are fine as well, also, if it's an aftermarket stereo you may have an inline fuse to it that blew out.... The second thing that my be bad is the ignition switch itself and to test that I'm not 100% sure since I don't have any manuals or anything for that vehicle, if you have one look through it for a way to test the ignition switch and see if you've got a problem there... Sorry to here you're having problems but thanks for joining the forum!

 

Hey Nasty (hahaha what a name)

I know about the key barrel problems, But I doubt that that is the problem because it problem described by honda was the thing shorting out, and it's not, also the various positions trigger different events, but it still does what it is supossed to do only whith side effects.... to say the least.

How can you tell if a keybarrel is at fault so I can check just to be sure?
in other words which colour wire is what
12v Batt = ?
IGN1 = ?
IGN2 = ?
start = ?


Í've just checked all the fuses in the box under the hood, and ABS box, and also all the fuses in the footwell fusebox, nothing blew out.

I'm beginning to think that it's an earth connection somewhere which is at fault, because all sorts of mallfunctions appearing at the same time. are there any suspective earth straps in honda's? (I've drivven renaults for ages and those are know to have these sorts of problems)

if I can't find it I'll take out all the fuses in the footwell box, and try if it'll start, if it does I'll replace them one by one and see when it goes wrong.

Grtz Thomas

(I'm driving my mother in law's Seat Arosa at the moment and that's NOT funny!)

 

barrel key colour code

seems to be

12Vbatt = White
IGN1 = Black yellow
IGN2 = Yellow
Start = Black-White

as per all fords and Toyota's BTW

I didn't do measuring yet, it getting dark and very cold over here so I'm off for beer and bed!

feel free to give me more clue's I still don't know anymore than from post 1 exept for what nsty told me.

grtz Thomas

 

sorry I don't know those voltages..... weird issue man... no known issues with grounding wires... Weird, I'm going to wait and see what a few other people have to say about it before I start guessing at random...

 

Right,

been fidling with the accord half a day, but I got it solved.

The remote wire for the antenna had a short to ground, behind the radio, and also a 12vbatt short at the antenna itself, how this did occur at the same time I have no clue whatsoever, but hey I found it. (Nasty Thanx for the fuse tip!)
the battery went dead overnight, probably because of the short circuit, the fuse didn't blow and during measuring it wasn't 100% shorted but kinda sparky like, which probably caused it to keep on going up and down. when I shorted it fully the fuse did blow so nothing wrong there.

only thing is that my SRS light is still on.

anyway wiring fixed, new 50Ah battery installed, and I'm buzzing around again.

grtz Thomas

 

[sm=ttiwwp.gif]

 

and what piccie would you liike to have had?

the SRS light glowwing red hot? or the Blue wire comming from my car stereo? or a 80 euro new shine battery located in it's ussual place....

sorry just kiddin of course

here's piccie's of my other ride's engine and overall shot (will post the honda here soon)




BTW the Blue one is a Sylva MOJO and that's the one which is eating D16 engines, but today I got the wiseco pistons and pauter rods so things should be holing out better at 9000rpm from now on, which BTW way is something the toy 4age engine in the yellow striker does factory standard.

that's it for the piccies for now

btw 2 the yellow car is for sale

grtz Thomas

 

Is the yellow one a Westfield? A friend of mine just built one, really cool car.

 

Nope as the post says, it's a sylva striker now called RAW striker

it's far lighter and even smaler than a westfield, mine weighs 498 kilo's with a steel blocked 4age toyota engine in it.
you can not get that light with a westy! it does 0-60mls in 4.8 seconds on street tires, so plenty quick for road use.

ps how can I get those piccies a little smaller?

grtz Thomas