You'd need a guage set with 3 hoses to do it (standard HVAC equipment) ..... I guess a valve rig would also work if you got a charge can with a guage on it. You need to be able to hook up to the system, but isolate the connection. If you could rig a hose with a valve that can handle the pressure, that could work too.

Connect the vacuum pump to the system via the valved connection. Evacuate the system with the car off for about an hour. Close connection valve and remove vacuum. Connect R-134a charge can to the connection. Open the valve to inject the charge. Start the car and run AC on MAX. Make sure the entire can is in the system. Turn off car. Disconnect valve rig. Charge system according to directions on freon charge can with the valve. Done.

 

The service manual recommends removing the alternator when replacing the compressor. Does this need to be removed to replace the discharge and suction lines?

 

Probably need the alternator out of the way so the compressor itself can be lifted out. You have to look at the hose connections to see whether theres room to work.

The alternator is not very difficult to remove.

 

Well the UV light finally came in the mail and I got a chance to take a look under the hood. I noticed some fluorescent leakage under the bolt that holds the suction hose to the compressor. I am a bit surprised by this because the dealership that injected the tracer saw the fluorescence at both the discharge and suction hose which make more sense since al least for the discharge side since it is the high pressure side of the system. If the picture uploaded properly, the leak is around bolt 22 (suction hose is square noted #2). This is also surprising because I would think that if the o-ring was failed then it would leak around the base of the connection and not from the top of the bolt. Is there a easy fix to this like pulling the bolt out and applying some compound? Or would this break the system to the point where I would need to evacuate and then charge after I finish the repair?

Either way right now the AC is blowing cold and the leak is slow so I might just wait it out till the winter (I live in Houston where it is HOT and dont want to risk messing something up and then no AC). I really would like to attempt the repair myself for the satisfaction but the feeling I am getting from other members is that the AC system is better left to the pros. I did get a quote from a shop our realtor recommended at $330 to replace both the suction and discharge hoses and recharge the system. That quote is if they get the parts from a Mexican factory. The same parts made in Japan bring the total to $460 though I believe all are "honda" parts. Does anyone know of a difference?

Any guidance for this New B would be greatly appreciated.


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I contacted the Number you listed and explained the situation. What really got me was that Honda Cars of Katy would not even ackowledge the possibility of a refrigerant leak as the culprit. To them it was the compressor end of story. It is worth noting that replacing a compressor is a $1500 job versus $460 for the hoses so maybe there was a default to the higher dollar repair going on. I was impressed with how well the Honda corporate person handled the issue and how concerned he seemed to be.

 

Replacing the hoses because of an end fitting leak makes no sense. The end fitting is sealed by an oring (part 14), which may have failed due to heat, age, etc. New oring and sealing should be fine. Only if you see dye at the hose crimp fitting or in the body of the hose, should the hose be replaced. There is possibility of a cracked end fitting, but from location, it's almost certainly the oring.

If you're comfortable working on AC; using manifold gauge set, vacuum pump, introducing lubricant, and R134a into the system, I would go for the repair. Small system volume does indicate the system should be recharged by draining compressor, blowing/flushing condensor, and replacing receiver/drier. Then pour/pump lubricant (need spec) into compressor and condensor, close system, perform final vacuum leak check after closing system, and if good (stable vacuum level on gauge for 30 mins) introduce spec charge weight of R134a. Don't try blowing or flushing the evaporator, unless it's removed from vehicle and expansion valve removed. Live w/ residual lubricant in evaporator.

good luck

 

So in doing this repair you recommend evacuating the system, removing the comprossor and draining the oil? The system has already been recharged and is working properly now. I am not sure if the dealership added oil when they recharged it after their inspection, though I doubt it. Since it is working fine I am tempted to skip removing the compressor since oil losses during the o-ring replacement should be minimal.

Man, what large amount of work this o-ring may have caused me!

 

As was explained, w/ very low volume systems even loss of a small amount of oil might cause compressor to be damaged. By flushing as much as possible and replacing w/ spec oil amount, you insure adequate lube oil to be carried by R134a.

That said, it might be OK as you describe. In most cases, it's best practice to replace receiver/drier when system is opened to insure maximum moisture scavenging capacity.

Before replacing oring, inspect all other connections and hose crimps very carefully for indications of leaks.

good luck

 

Say I decide not to flush the system. The service manual indicates oil amounts for each major component replaced in the system as well as an amount of oil to add if you have had a leak. If I am unable to find a leak in any of the hoses and just replace the o-ring, I will then add the extra oil amount for the leak. Where should I add this extra amount of leak oil? If I have to replace a hose, where will I add its spec amount?

Howdo Iflush the condenser?

Finally the manual breaks done the oil that you should add based on what component you replace in the system. Thus I assume that if you flush the system you would need to replace the sum of all these? (Assuming you flush the whole thing, otherwise if you just flush the condenser like you have said, and replaced the dryer, then I assume you would only add the spec amount of oil for these two parts)
Thanks for your patience with my questions, being a New B I know I have a lot!

 

Best bet -> Have the system charge reclaimed, replace the o-ring and seal the threads with Leak Lock purple, retighten the connection, bring it to the dealer or equivalent to cycle out the old refrigerant and oil blend and replace with a new, properly mixed R-134a/oil blend.