Hi All - Thanks in advance for any help offered!
My car is a '99 Accord V6 sedan.
I have what seems to be a relatively common problem - my rear brakes lights don't work (all three), and I can't shift out of park without using the bypass slot beside the shifter. In fact, I have had this happen before and I replaced my brake switch and it was fixed. It did that this time, but no dice...or rather, no lights (or shifting). I have checked my fuses, and they all appear to be OK. So now I am stuck.... what to do next? I don't have much mechanic-ing experience, much less electrical, but I am not afraid to try whatever.
Again, thanks for any help offered!
Mark B.

 

Unplug the brown electrical connector at the brake switch. With a piece of wire or even a small paper clip, jump the terminal cavity with the white/yellow wire to terminal cavity with white/blk wire.


Does the brakes lights work afterwards?

 

Thanks, Redbull-1. Before I try this I would like to have some idea of what I am doing when I try this...
THanks again,
Mark

 

Redbull-1 .... Actually, I just saw what this does. All it took was a look at the wiring diagram ... You are just having me jump around the switch. I'll try it now.

THansk,
Mark

 

redbull-1 ... OK - I am not able to tell exactly which lines go into which holes of the connector, I am guessing because of my 60 yr old eyes & associated glasses.....but I tried every connector slot with every other one. Nothing lit the brake lights. But when I connected the two holes indicated in the photo I have attached, I definitely heard a solenoid kinda sound from under the dash area. I checked and I still can't shift out of park with those two holes connected - even with the key in the "run" position. So thats where I am now.

Based on what I have read on the 'net, I need to check the brake light failure sensor next. But would that also keep my shift lockout from disengaging?

Again, thanks for your help!!!



MarkB

 

The Wht/Yel wire cavity is at terminal no. 2 and the Wht/Bk wire cavity is at terminal no. 3. (See attached photo - Click the image to enlarge).

Check under-hood Fuse No. 47 (20A).

If fuse is good, check the voltage reading on the Wht/Yel wire cavity terminal no.2 at the brake light pedal position switch harness connector.

The brake light failure sensor would not affect the shift position interlock circuit or the high mount brake light.

Afterward check your bulbs too. The bulbs for the left and right are dual filament bulbs, one filament for the tail light and another for the brake light.

 

Hi redbull-1...continuing thanks for helping me out!

Here are results:
First, Fuse No. 47 looks good.
Next, I jumped your numbers 2 to 3 with a paper clip .... no brake lights at all, and I could not shift out of park (with the key in run position, but engine not running).
Finally, I checked the bulbs. One filament on LHS was out (running lights). I replaced that bulb and now both rear running lights work, but no change in the brake light results.
FYI, I had gone ahead and ordered a replacement brake light failure sensor and installed that before I did all of the above.

Am I stuck trying to track down a wiring issue?

Thanks again for your help!
Mark

 

If fuse is good, check the voltage reading on the Wht/Yel wire cavity terminal no.2 at the brake light pedal position switch harness connector.

If the voltage reading is okay at terminal no. 2, then the issue is further down the circuit.

 

redbull-1...I got battery volts when I grounded terminal 2....I failed to mention that in my last post. So based on moving down the circuit, a simlar thread shows that I need to check junction G601. I'll do that next... thanks again!

Mark

 

redbull-1 ... I checked G601 - it looks alright. I unsrewed the main screw and screwed it back in - all uneventful, and no corrosion or badd connections apparent. A have attached a picture.

So I checked connector C554, behind the trunk lining towards the top. I checked every socket with the brake pedal pressed. The only one that registered a voltage is the one indicated with the arrow in my attached photo. (11.78V, which is what I have across my battery terminals right now - it starts and runs with that voltage). It appears to house an orange wire. I'm assuming some other wires should have a voltage as well, right? So it appears I have a problem between the fuse box and C554?

Thanks again for your continued help!
markb57