How do I properly wash my new 2012 Accord LX-P?
 

This may sound like a dumb question :p... but how do you properly do it to protect the paint/coatings?

What cleaning solutions/soaps do you guys use?
What do you use to rinse/lather the soap around?
What do you use to dry?
Wax?

With my two older cars, I just use dishwashing detergent and an old tshirt to do the job...but I'm pretty sure that's not the right way to do it, and I sure as hell won't do that on the new car :o

It is in the manual.

Whatever you decide to use, do not use detergent on your car. It has degreasers in it that will discolor and fade black window rubber seals, and other plastics, could also damage/discolor the clearcoat. A friend used liquid detergent on her Mustang GT and it made a real mess. I only use Turtle Wax ZipWash/Wax liquid and cool water mixed in a bucket. Hose off the loose grit from the car, and using a soft wash mit, gently soap down the car, start at the top and work your way down....Shade is best for this. Rinse thoroughly with cool water. I then drive the car for a few miles to blow off the excess water. To dry, I use a synthetic chamois call "The Absorber". It is very soft, and will not scratch the clearcoat. Use a soft towel on the tires and wheels, not the chamois. Now If you decide to wax the car, use a product made for a clearcoat finish. I have used a product called TR3--Resin Glaze (Not a wax, and gives excellent results with ease), available at any auto supply store. Meguiars also makes very good detailing waxes. Since your car is new, I doubt it really even needs wax at this point. But if you decide to wax the car, I would practice a bit, maybe under the trunklid or inside the door jambs to avoid any swirlmarks. Only buff by hand using a very thick and soft terry towel. Only apply and buff off the wax in the shade or garage, otherwise the wax will dry very hard and quickly. It is a small car and can be done in an afternoon...Again, no power buffers, by hand only.

Thanks for the great tips! I see you got most of your supplies from Amazon? (wonder if it'll be cheaper at local autozone/costco or something..)

This is the car wash product right?
These products also appear to be highest rated on Amazon (Any experience with Mother's car wash product?):

Everything you need should be at the local Walmart's auto section. You should get 4 things for basic cleaning:
1. Car wash solution that includes wax - Turtle wax is what I use
2. A sponge that is covered in a layer of soft cloth for washing
3. A bucket
4. An absorbing sheet for drying (forget their name, but they are usualy yellow and stored in a tube -- never let them sit outside the tube, they need a certain degree of moisture).

If you want extra protection for your car, buy some wax solution like "black magic" and applicator pads and follow the direction on the bottle. But I don't think they're worth it if your car isn't black.

Oh I replied before I see your last post... OP. That Absorber stuff is what I was thinking about :P

Those prices on Amazon are high. Definitely check the local Walmart/Costco. I'm a frequent Amazon shopper but there are things that are definitely more expensive on Amazon. I think I got the absorber at my Walmart for around $7 and a gallon of the turtlewax stuff for $5.

So this is what you use?

Along with the others I linked above?

THanks for your input guys!

No, I don't buy from Amazon. I use the Turtle Wax Zip Car Wash solution from Kragen Auto Parts. The Absorber was from there as well. Tr-3 Resin Glaze from Autozone.

Picked up The Absorber for $9.50 and a gallon of the turtle zip wax/wash for $5 at Walmart. Damn that Absorber is pricy..but it's made in Japan...better be worth it lol.

Now, I just need to look for that Meguiar's Microfiber Wash Mitt locally somewhere... it seems to be highly rated on Amazon:

first off back to the original post. who washes any car with dish soap? even if the paint is like mine (oxidized) i would never use dish soap on any vehicle no matter what it looked like.

you could do like state above or if you wanted to go to a car wash that you either do it yourself with their soaping brush and spray nozzle or the automatic one.

all of Meguiar's products are good but expensive! you can get any kind of car wash mitt or sponge and it will work just fine.

I actually prefer a wash sponge, which will hold some water. I like to fill up a bucket with soapy water, then dip the sponge into it. Kinda like washing dishes, but without the dish detergent :p

Here you go. I've had my own detailing business since 1994, I wrote this guide up several years ago (update it as needed) and it included my youtube video links that show how to wash, clay, apply sealants, use DA and rotary polishers, etc.

First, I'll tell you how to wash and wax your car in an hour or less. This does not include any polishing so this method won't correct any defects. However, if your car is in good condition already or you just want it clean and protected, this method is excellent.

Products you will need:

2 gallon capacity bucket
1 wash pad, I like to use microfiber covered foam pads
4-5 16" x 16" microfiber towels
2-3 terry cloth or cotton towels (only for wheel, fenderwell use, NOT FOR PAINT)
Wheel brush(s)
Tire protectant
Glass Cleaner
Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine: No Rinse Wash and Shine - car wash that doesn't pollute the environment
Optimum Car Wax: Eco Car Wax - protects your car from sun damage and protects the environment
Video links at the bottom of this post on how to use Optimum No Rinse, Opti-Seal and various tire/fenderwell and claying videos

Steps:

1. Using a capful or approximately one half ounce of Optimum No Rinse (ONR), add it to one gallon of water in the bucket.

2. Clean your wheels, tires and fenderwells using the ONR mixture and your brushes, wipe dry with the terry cloth towels.

3. Dress the wheels and fenderwells with your tire dressing-and don't forget the fenderwells! Dirty fenderwells detract from an otherwise clean and shiny car!

https://autopia.org/gallery/data/500...wheelwell1.jpg

The reason to do the wheels and fenderwells first is so when you apply the tire dressing, any overspray will be washed off the car during the washing step.

4. Empty out your bucket and refill with clean water, adding one half to one full ounce of ONR (less if relatively clean, more if really dirty).

5. Using a chenille covered foam pad or a wash mitt, wash one section of the car at a time and dry immediately using two microfiber towels, one for the first drying pass and making sure you leave a little moisture behind, use the other towel for a second drying pass. If you get the panel completely dry with the first towel, then don't go over it with the second towel because rubbing even a soft microfiber towel on dry paint can leave streaks.

Once you get the process down (it may take a couple washes to really nail it) you should be able to wash the body of your car in 20 minutes or less unless it is really filthy.

6. After washing open your doors, gas cap door and trunk or hatch and wipe down all the jambs.

7. Using Optimum Car Wax (OCW), spray onto a section at a time. Don't soak the panel, just a mist should do. Spread the wax over the panel, flip the towel and wipe to a haze free shine. If you can use a detail spray, you can use OCW, it is that easy. Depending on your area, wash habits, etc, you can expect 3-5 months durability. Honestly though, it is so easy to use you will probably use it every few washes. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes to do the whole car. In fact, you can also apply it as you dry each section when washing with ONR to save even more time, or apply while washing and apply a second coat for even better protection with very little additional time spent.

8. Clean your glass inside and out.

Stand back and admire your shiny car! Take pics and post them on OT!

There are several vendors who carry Optimum products, the one I would recommend first is www.exceldetail.com because he is an OT member and I believe we should support each other, plus he ships very fast, has excellent customer service, is an all around nice guy and he also carries a fine selection of microfiber towels, the rest of the Optimum product line as well as Clearkote, Poorboys, 4 Star, Propel buffing pads, etc.

Another excellent vendor is Aloha & Welcome to Our Oasis for All Your Auto Detailing, Auto Detailing Supplies, Auto Detailing Equipment, Auto Detailing Products, & Auto Detailing Accessories for all your Automobile Detailing or the Eco Car Care - Green Car Wash Products site, autogeek, etc.

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Scottwax's Offical Comprehensive Detailing Guide®

HARD SUPPLIES

- Wet/Dry Vacuum (>1.5 HP) w/ an assortment of nozzles and a thin crevice tool
- Bucket
- Spray nozzle-if washing conventionally
- Microfiber covered foam pads, or wash mitts
- Wheel brush, thin brush for tight areas, interior brush w/ soft bristles
- Terrycloth towels (wheels, tires, fenderwells)
- Microfiber towels (washing, removing product)
- Foam applicators (wax application)
- California Car Duster
- Q-Tips (Cleaning Vents)
Optional for power buffing:
-Porter Cable 7424 XP, Meguiars G110 v2, Griots DA polisher
-An assortment of 6.5" finishing, polishing and cutting pads. Polishing pads are your workhorse. The new microfiber pads that Optimum and Meguiars have are terrific, some softer paints may require foam finishing pads still.

Detailing products

I have listed products I have personally used.

No Rinse Washing

Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine

Conventional Washing

Optimum Car Wash
Poorboys World Super Slick & Suds Concentrated Car Wash
Mothers California Car Wash
Meguiars Gold Class or NXT Car Wash
Kit Carnauba Wash
Duragloss 901

--honestly, any quality car wash soap should be fine. Do not use dish soap!. It strips wax from your paint and dries out your rubber seals and trim. Regular use will also dry out your paint.

Drying

Microfiber towels.

Wheel Cleaners

Personally, I don't use wheel cleaners. I prefer to use either ONR or when washing conventionally, car wash soap. If you keep your wheels clean there should be no reason to have to use a wheel cleaner. Improper use (as in not following directions and apply to a hot wheel) or using the wrong wheel cleaner on your rims can damage them and require refinishing to correct.

Clay Bars

Most of the clay bars now available are made by Clay Magic since they hold the original patent and sued the crap out of anyone who copied their clay-so really, the brand doesn't matter much.

Clay bars removing imbedding grit, contamination, tree sap, paint overspray, etc from your paint. If you run your hand over your just washed paint and it has a gritty feel at all, you need to clay. This will pull all that gunk out of your paint leaving it glass smooth.

Spray a quick detail product (usually clay kits include the spray) onto your paint (about a 2' x 2' section) and rub the clay bar using moderate pressure over the paint. When it glides effortlessly and quietly over your paint, wipe off the clay lube and move on to the next area. Optimum No Rinse works as a clay lube, or you can clay as you wash with ONR since it slicks the paint up enough.

Polishes and compounds

My favorite polishes and compounds are:

Optimum Hyper Polish and Hyper Compound (sprays), Optimum Compound II (heavy cutting), Optimum G-P-S (polish, glaze and sealant in one)
Meguiars #105 Compound, #205 Polish, D300 Compound (designed to work with their Microfiber pads), D301 Finishing Wax (final polish and protectant in one)
Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish
3M Ultrafina #06068, works amazingly well with the blue 3M Ultrafina pad for swirl free rotary work

Use by hand:

Use a microfiber towel, folded into 1/8ths size to form a thick pad and so you can apply even pressure. Use moderate pressure, enough to build up some warmth on the towel and work the product into the paint until it looks nearly clear and dry, then wipe off immediately. Refold the towel and move on to the next section.

By Porter Cable polisher

Using a polishing pad, apply a circle of product about 1" from the edge of the pad and for the first couple of areas, before turning on the PC, spread the product over a 1' x 1' area to prevent dry buffing. With the pad pressed lightly against the paint, turn on the PC and set it to '5' and spread the product over a 2' x 2' area using moderate pressure. Kick the speed up to 6 and slow down your passes to about 1/2-1" per second with 50% overlapping passes, up/down, across, diagonally. Use enough pressure to lightly bog the PC and then back off just enough to pick the speed back up. Work the polish until it begins to clear or dry. Wipe off excess product, inspect your work, one or more additional applications may be needed with heavy defects.

Always start with a medium grade polish and a polishing pad and step up the aggressiveness of the polish before moving up to a cutting pad.

Final Polishes and Glazes

You will use these to further refine your finish or if the paint is in good condition and you just want to add more depth and pop to the finish prior to waxing.

Optimum Polish with a finishing pad can be used as a final polish
Clearkote's Vanilla Moose and Red Moose Machine Glaze
Menzerna FPII or PO106FF (at $50 a quart!)
Poorboy's Professional Polish or Polish with Carnauba
Jeff's Werkstatt's Prime, Prime Carnauba or Prime Strong
Klasse All in One

Just a suggestion-You can mix in about 30% of Clearkote's Red Moose Machine Glaze into either Menzerna polish to cut down on dusting and add more depth to the super clear wet shine of Menzerna.

Waxes

As a rule, waxes have a deeper, more liquid look than sealants, protect a little better against bird bombs but need to be reapplied more often than sealants.

Clearkote Carnauba Moose
Optimum Car Wax
Poorboy's Natty's and Natty's Blue Paste
Meguiars #16 (discontinued, you may be able to find a few vendors who still have it, still sold in the UK though), #26 in liquid or paste
Collinite 476 Wax
P21S or S100 Paste Wax-the S100 is essentially the same as P21S but widely available at Harley Davidson dealers and costs less too!
Pinnacle Souveran-yeah it is $70 but amazing on black and red paint, good for 50+ applications
Jeff's Werkstatt Carnauba Jett-spray carnauba

Sealants

Optimum Opti-Seal
Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Jett and Acrylic Jett Trigger (Trigger is in spray for, extremely easy to use).
3D HD Proxy
Detailer's Pride Poli-Coat Sealant
4 Star Ultimate Paint Protection
Klasse Sealant Glaze
Meguiars #20 Polymer Sealant, NXT High Tech Wax, or #21 Sealant

Quick Detail Sprays

You can use these after washing to give you the 'just waxed' look.

Clearkote's Quikshine
Optimum Instant Detailer or ONR mixed down at 1.5 oz per 32 oz
Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Glos-meant to be used with the Werkstatt system, but should be fine over any sealant
Meguiars #34 Final Inspection

Interior Cleaning Products

I use an 20:1 mixture of water and Woolite HE (the laundry soap version) in a spray bottle as my interior cleaner (8 parts water, 1 part non HE Woolite). You can use it on leather, vinyl, carpet, fabric, etc. Spray, scrub with a small brush with nylon bristles as needed, wipe up and wet vac as needed.

Meguiars and several other manufacturers have great all purpose cleaners that are safe for most interior surfaces but read the label first! I'd only recommened the water/Woolite mixture for leather though.

Interior Protectants

Vinyl, rubber and weather stripping-

Optimum Protectant Plus
Meguiars #40, Meguiars Interior Quick Detailer, Natural Shine Vinyl & Rubber Protectant
Poorboy's Natural Look Dressing
Armor All Original Shine
303
Vinylex

Leather-

Meguiars Gold Class Leather Conditioner
Turtle Wax's Leather Cleaner and Conditioner
Tanner's Preserves
Lexol
Leather Master's Leather Vital (it ain't cheap!)


Miscellaneous

Glass cleaners:

ONR at QD (1.5 oz per 32 oz of water) strength
Meguiars NXT Glass Cleaner
Eagle 20/20 Class Cleaner
Stoners Invisible Glass

Tire/fenderwell dressing:

Armor All Original Shine
Poorboy's Bold N Bright Tire Dressing
Optimum Tire Shine
Meguiars Hyper Dressing (can be cut with water up to 4:1)

Trim dressing:

3D Trim Protecant
Meguiars #38 Tire and Trim Gel
Poorboy's Trim Restorer
Mothers Back to Black

Engine Cleaning

1. Make sure engine is warm, but not hot. Cold engines are harder to remove grease and oil from.

** Check the directions on the engine cleaner/degreaser you are using, though. Some specifically say to clean the engine when cold only. **

2. Cover your distributor (if you do not know what or where it is, get a manual for your car), alternator and fuse box. Most electronics under your hood are adequately sealed for rain water splashing up on them, but high pressure water is another story.

3. Spray Greased Lightning's Orange Blast (my preferred engine degreaser) liberally all over your engine and engine bay. Let it sit for about 5 minutes. If your engine is really dirty, then after the 5 minutes, spray it down again and wait an additional 5 minutes.

4. Spray the engine and engine bay with high pressure rinse water - but even though your distributor may be covered, still use lower pressure around it to be on the safe side.

5. Any remaining grime, spray again with Orange Blast, and use a stiff brush if needed. Rinse again.

6. Remove the plastic coverings and start the engine. Let it run until it is dry. You will have to dry the painted surfaces in the engine bay and the underside of the hood with a towel.

7. Dress any hoses, etc. you want with rubber/vinyl dressing.

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Any detailing questions? We have a detailing forum here at Off Topic:

That'll Buff Right Out! - Offtopic.com

In addition, there is a detailing specific forum called Autopia- http://autopia.org

Please do not e-mail or PM me detailing questions, post them in our forum or in this thread and PM me the link only.

Videos of me using Optimum No Rinse:



How to apply Opti-Seal


Carpet cleaning using a Cyclo brush attachment and a Meguiars G110


Fenderwell cleaning with ONR and a pesticide sprayer


Claying with Optimum No Rinse at wash strength


Cleaning wheels with ONR



Cleaning wheels with ONR and Optimum Power Clean


Proper Rotary technique


Headlight polishing using a Meguiars G110 DA buffer

WOW----That was an impressive post !!

Very nice post regarding detailing... :) Thanks.

I'm still not sold on powerwashing a car's engine. Has anyone ever seen an engine gone bad due to not receiving any bath? :confused:

To be objective, take things with a grain of salt. It doesn't mean everyone has to necessarily agree with everything said; however, the poster is giving a lot of good info. in his post and should be given credit for it.

No offense intended; but, let's not be a Debbie Downer, at least on this forum. :D

Ah, of course the long post was amazing :cool:, obviously a rarity! I meant to only question the idea of engine washing in general. It's been brought up around here some time before.

I've heard that it may cause possible fluid leaks due to the natural sealing nature of the grease, gunk, etc. around the seals, which some say is good and part of the "breaking in a new car" thing.

THANK YOU SO MUCH! for the awesome post

But what is your opinion on the Turtle Zip Wax/Wash solution that I will be using? You seem to like Optimum products a lot...