Oil pan gasket replacement 90-97 accords.

tools needed,, 10mm, 12mm, 14 mm sockets, 17 mm wrench or socket, extensions,( short and long) rachet, braker bar, pan to drain oil ,wd-40 or equivalent . screwdriver, scraper,

supply needed :an gasket, ( use a Honda factory gasket part # 11251-POA-OOO ,,27-28 dollars, ), honda bond or equivalent , motor oil, drain plug gasket ( oil filter ) 3m spray adhesive

Raise the frt of car up, put jack stands, pull up on e-brake,
from undr the car use the 17 mm wrench or socket to remove the oil drain plug and drain the oil ,,if oil is fairly new you can reuse it other wise install new oil and filter . Once oil has drained out, reistall new gasket on drain plug and reinstall drain plug , tighten it ,
spray wd-40 on the frt + rear frt exhaust pite nuts, let is soak in a little while , use the 14 mm socket, extension and pry bar, remove the frt and rear frt exhaust pipe nuts ( 6 total) , use the 12 mm socket and rachet and remove the lower braket nuts for the frt exhaust pipe to block , ( just behind the oil pan ) , remove the frt exh pipe you might have to pry on the bracket with the screwdriver ,

Use the 14 mm socket, exention and pry bar, remove the bolts for the frt/rear beam .

Use the 10mm socket, remove the bolts for the flywheel cover , if car is auto tranny you need to also remove the 3, 12 mm bolts for the tranny shifter cable cover

use the 10mm socket, extension and the rachet, remove all the bolts and nuts for the oil pan, Oil pan should drop down, in some cases you might have to pry a bit...


clean the oil pan real good, and the block surface , make sure that at the corners the little metal rings DO NOT stick up on the block if they do and you install the pan,, you will have an oil leak, so make sure the block surface is real clean,

once block surface and oil pan are clean and dried , using the 3m spray adhesive, spray some on the block ( do not overdue it) you want to spray just enough so gasket will stick in place .. and spray some on the side of the gasket that will go on the block, apply a little amount of honda bond to the curved edge of the pan gakset that will mate to the block and on the opposite side , the small flat side ,, stick the pan gakset on the block, make sure to line up all the holes properly,,

Once gasket is up, put a lite amount of honda bond on the curved side on the oil pan and on the small flat side ,,, install the oil pan,

make sure all the bolts and nuts are started before you start tighten them up. tightening sequence go from the middle to the outside criss cross frt and rear,, DO NOT overtighten the pan bolts and nuts ..once all tightened,, reinstall the rest of the items you removed , make sure all bolts and nuts are tight

TORQUE specs .for pan bolts+ nuts is 10 ft lbs,, if you have a torque wrench .

PERSONALLY I prefer to use the rachet + extension, i get more feel that way

after you add oil, start the engine up , let it run and make sure that there is no leak .


P..S..

someties the old pan gaskets bakes to the pan, it gets hard and it is a real, real, real PITA to scrape off,, the best way to get it off is to heat it up , this softens the gasket and it comes off easy,, use a little propane torch , heat the underside of the pan where the gasket is, where bolts holes are, this softens the gasket and peels right off ,,make sure not to grab the heated gasket trying to remove it with your hand , it will burn,, just use some pliers

 

Your point about having the remove the shift cable cover if it's an automatic is critical, and missing from most DIY Oil Pan instructions.

Just did mine and took a few pics showing how the torque converter cover is interlocked with the shift cable cover:




Both Covers and oil pan off.

Also, the technique of attaching the gasket to the block is unique.
What are the advantages of doing it this way vs attaching to the pan?
Also, what is the 3m adhesive tack spray you recommend for this?

Thanks!

 

Hi

As per the instruction on the DIY section I opened the oil pan and having a very difficult time putting it back. There is a black cover that is creating a problem to put back the oil pan. Please let me know if there is an easy way to put back the oil pan. It has been 3 days I am trying to put it up.

Thanks for all your help

 

Is "this cover" in the trans end or the belt end?

 

Is your car a manual transmission?

I also was wondering if you're referring to the clutch cover. You may have to remove that first.

 

I am referring to the transmission cover when I say "this cover." It's the black cover on the passenger side of the car, to the side of the oil pan.
And my car is an automatic trans. Sorry for the confusion.

 

For the automatic, that probably is the torque converter cover. It can be removed.

 

Yeah, that's the one. My only concern is that if I remove the trans cover and then put the oil pan back on, can I put that trans cover back onto the car? It seems that one part of the trans cover should go underneath the oil pan.

But if that trans cover is installed first, putting the oil pan back is hell. So, I'm stuck trying to figure out how to get both of them on there. Is there a certain order to which they have to go back on the car?

 

Look at post #2, there are two covers that need to come off.

Then this from the original post "Use the 10mm socket, remove the bolts for the flywheel cover , if car is auto tranny you need to also remove the 3, 12 mm bolts for the tranny shifter cable cover "

 

I want to thank you guys for posting this and saving me $230.00 at Honda. When I got to the two 10mm nuts on the passenger side of the pan I was stuck until I saw that you said remove the torque converter cover to get the black powder coated tin piece off. Shwinggg! I called Honda and they said "we can't tell you what to do - we'll get sued".

You guys saved my day! Awesome